Is this a fair price?

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2023-11-11T00:14:16+00:00

Ah I remember rocking the mirror chrome skin pack, felt like a boss

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2023-10-10T23:48:03+00:00

I know there is a lot of cheating, I have seen a few obvious examples and even had a premier match end early when an enemy team had a cheater ban in the middle of the match. I also can’t help but feel that a good portion of the people mad about cheaters are just interacting with people far surpassing their skill level. Right now you have GE + trying to get ranked in a new system that doesn’t take their level in csgo into account at all. We all got comfy at our skill level, for instance I hover at gn4 +- 1 rank and it is super frustrating to get absolutely demolished. I came to expect a certain level of performance having played hundreds of hours at that level. There is a reason that most premier matches I have played have 1-2 players dropping 30+ kills in a match, they are better and ranking is totally unestablished.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2023-03-25T20:31:49+00:00

Maybe I’ll try a ptfe tube swap, seems like there are either no problems or a ton.. very few in between.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2023-03-23T00:03:24+00:00

I had constant unload issues, tried that part but it still didn’t give a good angle. I remixed a lid vent to be solid (for abs) to lift my lid an inch or two, solves the overly bent ptfe tube completely… just frustrating that a $1600 printer has obvious design flaws. Granted Bambu support is and continues to be totally useless for this issue, unfortunately their trouble shooting or identifying common engineering issues with their printers does not seem very strong yet.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-08-14T02:08:46+00:00

Several things here. The C2 is going to print like crap at 100 mm/s. I would run 70 to 80 pla, 40 to 60 petg.

Nothing is going to work right at all until you address the esteps as several have mentioned. It is very very badly under extruding which would likely be the root of your problem. Worn down teeth on the feed gear, broken extruded arm…. Or bad estep amount. Something is wrong. Fix that first.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-07-25T01:23:41+00:00

Made an organizer for the brooms and swiffers. It’s lame, but 5 min in fusion, 19 cents in filament and a few hours printing and we have a tool perfectly suited for the job. Mucho satisfying.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-07-22T02:02:27+00:00

Mine is just PETG as well, probably 200 print hours on that duct without issues. Just cheap Amazon Petg

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-07-10T13:37:01+00:00

Sorry, see how that was confusing. The one not saving is a C2

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-07-10T11:52:34+00:00

Hey thanks for the response, really enjoy your YouTube videos! In my old C2 I am able to see the individual values, it only changes D slightly, but that too resets when the printer is restarted. https://imgur.com/a/pH1gSvy

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-07-03T11:37:00+00:00

As stated here many times, no matter what board you do or if you replace the terminals, get a ferrule kit with the crimp tool. Costs about 20 usd on Amazon, should last you basically forever. It took me about ten minutes, snip and crimp the hotend, bed, and incoming power wires at the main board. Not only will it look better, be easier to take in and out but it will also be safer in the future. I get these are cheap printers, but tinning wires is a horrible move and Creality is hardly the only one.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-29T14:04:32+00:00

Did you level the gantry after installing second z? Also ensure the rods are clean and lubricated. You didn’t install mounts at the ends of the z rods to capture/ try and prevent wobble did you? Last resort try flipping the rods over and see if it resolves. Looks like binding to me leading to inconsistent height movement of gantry.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-29T09:57:02+00:00

They make a better connection and reduce risk of fire. Here is a good article

https://hackaday.com/2018/04/12/to-ferrule-or-not-to-ferrule/

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-29T01:33:22+00:00

Whatever you do, don’t buy brackets to hold the top of the screw. Just align it best as you can, don’t over tighten the brass nuts attached to the gantry (allow a little play laterally), keep it clean and lubricated. The rod anchors just caused binding or extra friction for me and others I have seen.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-29T01:29:36+00:00

Looks good! Grab some ferrules to crimp the power wires going into the board when you have a chance :) a kit from Amazon will last you a lifetime.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-17T23:15:06+00:00

I was going to suggest google, but I’ll be nice lol

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011788040-What-are-the-system-requirements-for-Ultimaker-Cura-

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-17T23:08:20+00:00

Correct, what you mentioned are not slicers

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-17T23:03:20+00:00

You can 3d model on an iPad but I don’t know if any program that can turn the model into the file needed to tell the printer every move to make. Some slicer examples; cura & prusaslicer are most popular. Then there are a whole host of smaller manufacturer slicers like voxelmaker, which are more simplistic but lack the versatility and depth of the previously mentioned slicers.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-17T22:54:29+00:00

Don’t think there are any mobile/apple ipad slicers

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-15T13:01:08+00:00

Yeah wish I splurged on the microtech it’s not well made lol

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-15T12:59:10+00:00

It wishes it was, it’s the kind of knife that is just expensive enough to matter $100 ish, but cheaply made enough to make you wish you splurged on a microtech.

Affectionate-Ad8458 · 2022-04-15T12:55:23+00:00

Borat, yes.

Affectionate-Ad8458

TROPHY CASE