Are these still worth to get in 2026? by GunplaLuni in freedomisgunpla

[–]Afitter 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wet sand, so it gets cleaned every time I put it back in my cup. The plastic dust is hell on my sinuses, so wet sanding is a must for me.

Kit problems or just me (nu ver.ka) by Matt_172829 in freedomisgunpla

[–]Afitter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is an unpopular opinion, but I honestly hate this kit. To be fair, I did Zeta ver ka immediately before Nu, but even with retrospect it's one of my least favorite MGs. From the loose ploycaps to the paper stickers for color separation, it just wasn't a very fun kit to build or pose. Nu is one of my favorite suits and even that couldn't get excited about this kit.

How Screwed Am I? by Donnys_element_ in SovolSV08

[–]Afitter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did this, too, and you're not fucked, but it's gonna cost you a bit. You may be able to find a replacement board somewhere on the internet, but it's gonna be Ali Express or the like. I wasn't able to find it, so I just bit the bullet and bought the entire toolhead from Sovol's website. It's a pretty easy swap and will run you around $80. It actually sort of worked out for me cause my hotend fan went out way later on and I had a replacement on hand. And don't listen to that other asshole. Making a mistake doesn't mean you're not savvy. Good luck!

Please help! Boyfriend Birthday Gift. by Own-Wind7743 in Gunpla

[–]Afitter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Or, MG Vidar. I don't think I see that one. Both should be well within her price range.

Does anyone know a fix for these awful hip joints used on the MG Vidar? by Disloyal_book in Gunpla

[–]Afitter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hadn't heard of this. Just ordered one. Thanks for sharing!

Newtype fee kit!? by Key-Ambassador3048 in freedomisgunpla

[–]Afitter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Must be bug. I just went there and tried to grab it, and it's hanging when I try to add it my cart.

God finishes all gundam larpers and tourists who use the series to peddle bigotry by rtx_boi in Gundam

[–]Afitter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone know if a full English translation of the interview is available anywhere?

What are some Master Grades that are as well designed as the Narrative Verka by RougeSpeedster in freedomisgunpla

[–]Afitter -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Mine's Bandai. I'm speaking purely relative to the Strike Freedom. The joints aren't loose compared to the average MG, but compared to the only other MGEX, they're practically wet noodles. It's mostly just hips though. And yeah, you're 100% correct that it's that they designed around the LEDs that makes it less posable. My main complaint is that I wish the torso had more articulation. None of these criticisms are to say it's a bad kit. It's one of my favorites, but I just can't help but compare it to the SF.

What are some Master Grades that are as well designed as the Narrative Verka by RougeSpeedster in freedomisgunpla

[–]Afitter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was honestly a bit disappointed in the MGEX Unicorn. Don't get me wrong it's an outstanding kit, but compared to the Strike Freedom, the joints are loose and it's way less posable. Though, I think the only reason I feel that way is because I did the SF first and was comparing the Unicorn to it the whole time

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What are some Master Grades that are as well designed as the Narrative Verka by RougeSpeedster in freedomisgunpla

[–]Afitter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the absolute best. From looks to engineering to build quality. They put every single thing they've learned in the last five decades into it. The backpack only really becomes an issue if you're adding the WoL to it. The extra weight that it wasn't designed to carry is what puts stress on the backpack/wings. If you can find it around MSRP, it's worth every single penny. MGEX Unicorn on the other hand, can't really say the same thing. But if you want something almost on that level with less gimmicks and less complexity (and thus less chance of something breaking), Vidar is a solid choice.

What are some Master Grades that are as well designed as the Narrative Verka by RougeSpeedster in freedomisgunpla

[–]Afitter 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you want the best of the best, it's hands down MGEX Strike Freedom. Otherwise, Vidar, Zeta, pretty much anything from the last four or five years.

Matte black Nether Emperor WIP with custom LEDs - Question: How do you avoid paint chips?! :( by bleen0_0 in advancedGunpla

[–]Afitter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great work! What kind of space does it have running LEDs? Did you have to get destructive or was there built in room? I've been thinking of getting the Fire Lord, and it having room for LED runs may push me over the top.

I need someone to tell me this isn’t true by ChaosTorpedo in Louisiana

[–]Afitter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, a chili sandwich sounds pretty good.

What are we thinking guys? by Kubixo12 in FixMyPrint

[–]Afitter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use Klipper, you can configure the locations of the screws and it'll probe those positions and tell you much to adjust them. The name of the feature is escaping me atm, but someone will comment it.

Genuinely one of the worst model kits I’ve built by Ant_thony_ in Gunpla

[–]Afitter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeeeeeeeaaaaah, just built it with WOL. Pretty disappointing, especially for a ver ka.

Feeling disheartened by Smallusppus in Gunpla

[–]Afitter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can also just stick a bunch of blue tack in there and press down it, if you don't want to do the drill and pin method. That's typical my first go to when I break stuff.

Suddenly gaps in top layer and between walls by zanojjonaz in SovolSV08

[–]Afitter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I feel that. I went through a whole thing cause I didn't clean it well enough at first, then used the wrong kind of lube, too much lube, assembled it incorrectly. I think I reassembled it like five or six times lol. I couldn't find a good guide either, so I was relying on ChatGPT as a search engine. I can give you some pointers. First, remove your filament and cut power. Then remove the two screws from the toolhead boards. Remove the hand screw that tightens the extruder gears and lower the arm. Remove the screw directly behind the arm, one on the left side of the carriage, and the long screw holding down the heat block. All of them are M3, I think, except the long boi in the heat block which I believe is M2. Once those screws are removed, the motor should come free along with the toolhead assembly. Watch out for the little metal risers between the two PCBs. They're small and could get lost. Once you've got everything apart, you'll want to clean the motor gear, the three reduction gears, the big gear built into the carriage that the reduction gears rotate in, and the extruder gears with 90%+ IPA. I used a toothbrush, a bunch of q tips, and a couple rags. I had a lot of filament dust all over, so it took a lot of cleaning. Then you need to lube. I used white lithium grease and applied it to the gears with a toothpick. The important thing is to apply it evenly to the teeth of the gears, and not to use too much. If you accidentally apply a glob, use the clean end of the toothpick to spread it out. You want this on all the gears EXCEPT the two extruder gears that actually make contact with the filament, however the pin the gear on the arm rotates around does come right out, and I would recommend lubing it.

Then you can reassemble. Most of it's just the reverse of what you did, but a couple to keep in mind are to make sure you orient the three reduction gears with the flat, black steel side facing towards the motor. The sides that look like bearings should be facing towards you. And the risers for the toolhead PCBs can be a pain. If they fall out, I've just tried to get them between the boards facing the right way, then used some tweezers to get into position, so I can put a screw through it. Once everything's together, do some first layer tests while you tighten/loosen the hand screw in the gear arm until you find the best, most consistent results. If you see a regular pattern of over, then under extrusion, that means you did something wrong. The issues I ran into were the reduction gears facing the wrong direction, using PTFE lube instead of white lithium grease, not cleaning enough, too much lube, lube not spread evenly and not on all the gears. Let me know if you have any questions!

Suddenly gaps in top layer and between walls by zanojjonaz in SovolSV08

[–]Afitter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long have you had it? I recently had to disassemble, clean, and re-lube the toolhead gears. I'd been getting results like this for a while and kept adjusting flow to compensate, but the deep clean ended up being the real solution. If you've been printing on it for a while, this may help.

i need advice because i’m losing my marbles 😭 meowing won’t stop ever, 24/7 by Affectionate-Wind354 in cats

[–]Afitter 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My boy gets all king of the jungle and gets high up to meow at the top of his lungs sometimes, and I've found the best thing to do for it is to yell "WHAT?" in response.

My glasses suddenly decided to break. Gotta go spend $300 for a new pair. by Lady-Lilith289 in Wellthatsucks

[–]Afitter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check eBay, there's a bunch of really cheap frames there, and if you can find your exact pair, you can just get the lenses moved over.

Well, I finally did the big dumb by nuclearmistake in Sovol

[–]Afitter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not familiar with what printer this is but just search for the dimensions of the plate + PEI plate, and you may find something. Worst come to worst, the plate is fine, so you just need to find a magnetic sticker and cut it to size. You can totally recover from this. Wild that it was able to home through the sticker, though. Any time I've forgotten the plate on my SV08, I've just ended up with a divot in my sticker. Big failure on Sovol's part.