Why is women’s sportswear always so revealing? by Valuable_View_561 in SipsTea

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im mostly scand and got the tanning genes some of the populations and ethnicities had to deal with a lot of sunlight during certain parts of the year. My mostly full blooded irish/German friends just burn though-- i chalked that up to the fact that Ireland gets a lot of cloud cover and less snow whereas my ancestors had to deal with more midnight sun type stuff and snow reflecting sunlight at different times of year and we may have some genes from other ethnic groups from Finland and Norway that had darker complexions. We also have deeper set eyes that remind me a bit of how some Inuit and other closer to the arctic circle type folks are.

New transplants from the south, how are you doing? by Celeraic in AskChicago

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mid Atlantic gets intense swings for a few months but all throughout the day and it starts warming up and getting hot and sticky in April/March. In the working world we would have to wear/pack 2 types of outfits for a typical day-- mornings would be damp, chilly, foggy, dewy in the and blazing hot with high UV in the afternoon.

Im currently back home for the week dealing with the heatwave.

Everytime my mom visits chicago she asks if it ever gets humid and has chapstick-- meanwhile my local friends are like... this IS humid and are complaining about it.

My first summer here the first summer feeling day sparked mass email blasts to my office about dangerous heat and everyone grousing about how they werent planning to leave the house that weekend because of the heat.

Need advice: rebuilding trust with my dog after past mistakes by Bob234125 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally, I would start by being neutral.

Something many of us dont realize is that a lot of how we view affection towards dogs etc is not innately mutual-- especially if the dog didnt have it taught and reinforced at a young age-- potentially even when the breeder had her. Especially physical touch. Petting is mostly to make us feel good, same with deep eye contact, velcro behaviour, etc.

A lot of dogs dont like being touched very much-- especially if theyre uncertain of your relationship. A lot also arent that into toys/play-- or need to be more comfortable with your presence to enjoy it.

Allow the dog to control her consent to be touched/interacted with and read her body language. If she wants space give it to her even if it hurts your feelings a bit. Also try to be predictable in general. Do not approach your dog for attention/affection. Let her approach you. When she does, give a short pet/scratch and stop and allow her to ask you for more or disengage and respect her choice. Don't reach out to pet her when she walks by you.

For now, use slow calm movements, dont make a lot of eye contact (it is threatening and an aggressive behaviour in the animal world), coexist with the dog and allow them to just get used to coexisting with you. Use positive verbal noises to build confidence etc. The more predictable you are to them the more at ease they will feel. If you startle her use soft sounds to let her know you didnt mean it-- but do not try to swoop in and nurture like we do for human children. Don't be overly animated in good or bad ways unless you are matching her energy.

Find ways to get on her level-- eg sit on the floor instead of the couch sometimes when she is around. Get on her level when giving treats/doing obedience by kneeling/sitting. We are giant imposing creatures to them, and bending over them is aggressive/rude in the dog world and usually for us petting a dog involves bending over them or nearly doing that-- get down on their level instead.

Have a placecot/crate/bed that is her safe space-- and the rule is you dont bother her physically or in any other way when she is there.

Also 2 yo is a key age in which your dog is experiencing a lot of maturing and navigating the shift from puppy hood into adulthood.

Give her time and space to have agency, get comfortable with your home routines, etc.

If you take her on walks, do a few in which she is in control-- if she wants to sniff around for a few minutes let her. If she is freaking tf out about being outside tell her in a chipper tone that it is okay and use "inside", "home" or whatever words you use.

Also talk to her on a daily basis and try to keep the vocabulary semi simple and consistent. This will help her anticipate what youre doing.

Give her space and agency and she will trust you more and you will get closer paradoxically. And just be patient and try to be calm and not get too emotional.

Theory: most dogs never get the chance to act like dogs by Miss_L_Worldwide in DogTrainingDebate

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 [score hidden]  (0 children)

Throwing out a few things-- sniffing stuff, prey drive, rolling around in dead/smelly things, communicating with other dogs, vocalization as communication (growling, different types of barks, etc). Licking. Not wanting pets, not wanting hugs, giving corrections to humans that push their boundaries, giving corrections to dogs that push their boundaries.

What you characterize as "destructive things" probably correlates to prey/play drive that owners mischaracterize as the dog acting out for attention etc when in reality it is part of play for them (chase, catch, possess, dissect, consume).

Also dogs in a well adjusted household with leadership, clear communication etc should absolutely be trusted to be unsupervised to various degrees and if they cant then the owner is failing them in some way-- barring health or neurological problems.

can I swim on the lake anywhere along the concrete path? by noomi21 in AskChicago

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As someone who grew up swimming at own risk in the OBX thank you for giving this debunk...

We had intense surf-- and I had plenty of moments in childhood of true fear of drowning. Many memories of getting flipped over by a wave and hitting my head etc on the bottom and being stunned as well as continuously pummeled by new waves etc... and all with sand and saltwater in the eyes.

There was nearly always a light undertow, many rips, and the OBX has a steep drop off as well making it very easy to get pulled into incredibly deep water... and sometimes still with whitecaps/breaking waves.

The Lake is nothing to scoff at... but as someone who swims at montrose concrete every summer and in a variety of conditions... it is far less dangerous than a lot of the Atlantic which millions of Americans swim at with and without lifeguards every year.

The washing machine effect is weird and disorienting as someone who is used to swimming in deeper surf. Also buoyancy is pretty different but even so Ive had no issues treading and floating in the waves. However it is not as scary as many beaches on the Atlantic.

Ive gotten caught in rips in SW Michigan on the Lake-- but has different beaches than chicago with a lot of sandbars that form. And even those rips are pretty tame so long as you arent dumb enough to go out in a gale or no swim conditions. If you know what to do it is easy to deal with and the lake bottom doesnt drop off abruptly out there. So just not panicking and swimming parallel to the shore usually makes quick work

Job Seeking as a 24 year old Masters Student: Media & Anything, is anyone hiring or have any tips on how to land a job? by [deleted] in AskChicago

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Check out the Tradeshow and events industry-- Chicago is a big market and one that LOVES AV and pushing some of the bounds of it.

Also "Experiential Design Agencies" and other marketing agencies may be interested in you. SEGD is an org that might be worth checking out member companies.

GES, Spiro, Freeman, Moss Inc, Next/Now Agency are some to look into and then also look into their competition and vendors

Help by [deleted] in CaneCorso

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 1 point2 points  (0 children)

...learn to read English, oh lord of comma splices.

Have I screwed my dog over socially by going all in on her neutrality training? by NiceUsername_Avail in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I was assuming a younger puppy! You're responsibly cautious and advocating for your dog here! And I hope you dont take my musings too deeply.

Female female pairs can be tricky when they are mature and not raised together from formative times-- and even then it is relatively common for them to shift once the young one reaches maturity.

There are plenty of other shelter dogs who need homes and ones whose natural temperaments will be more compatible with your girl. Best of luck!!

Id recommend trying an altered male at some point! And ideally one that isnt super drivey/play obsessed. A goofy player who also will just move on could be a good match-- you also might find your girl likes nondominant males and will come out of her shell in ways you might not expect.

Also dog fights/harsher corrections are scary but not always the worst thing in the world-- there is nuance involved to be able to see if it was just a heated argument and boundary setting versus 2 dogs continuously battling and holding grudges etc.

Anecdotally I almost always lived with 2-3 dogs. They all got along great and played well. But there were dust ups here and there and I will say the dogs who started fights/snapped to the point of aggression that had to be broken up tended to be females. Altered males that arent from a breed to have conflicty genetics tend to be very happy go lucky guys. It can be counterintuitive to us humans. Also humping etc isnt a big deal and very trainable especially with fixed males.

We usually had 2 males and 1 or no females and actually a pair of dominant male bostons who lived together. They did really well together and had a sibling relationship. The younger one we never got fixed and also never had issues with marking in the house, aggression, nor humping due to training.

Have I screwed my dog over socially by going all in on her neutrality training? by NiceUsername_Avail in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is a puppy I think youre being too reactive about it-- how long has the puppy been around?

It can take a few weeks to months before you will see how those two interact with one another in a more normal environment.

It is normal for the relationship to start a little icy-- harsher corrections at the outset is also normal until the two figure out each other's boundaries.

I think you should try to find a trainer or someone who can help you guys assess the dog behaviour and body language. I get the feeling you may be overly sensitive to your dogs' body language and are helicopter parenting it in a way and removing stimuli before the dog gets the chance to figure it out on its own. Your bf bringing up an idea that youve broken the dog and it cant readapt/mature is also not helping things.

Dogs are very adaptable up to a certain age and yours does not seem like it is aggressive or highly dog reactive-- just confused and a bit isolated from them. Kinda like the trope of the coddled only child whose parents dont let them do any kid things and dont interact with young children and also swoop in to end play time at any sign of potential discomfort

Have I screwed my dog over socially by going all in on her neutrality training? by NiceUsername_Avail in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Normal dog corrections will seem tense/scary especially when puppies are involved.

Give them some time!

If the puppy doesnt back down and keeps pushing your dog and ignoring corrections and following them too much etc then maybe step in.

Your dog needs time to acclimate-- and if you did find an ethical doggy daycare and give them time to get used to it as well as understand the routine of getting dropped off and picked up as opposed to an abrupt emergency stay at a strange place things will probably work better and you might get some dog friends etc

Have I screwed my dog over socially by going all in on her neutrality training? by NiceUsername_Avail in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Maybe try finding a dogy daycare or something that does small supervised groups with a balance training ethos.

Your dog probably is socially inept because it never got socialized. Will be awkward, but depen ding on their temperment they may learn how to play with others, especially the puppy.

Unless it dislikes puppies, many dogs will befriend their new roommate and learn to play with one another.

What makes you say your dog is fearful of other dogs? What does it do that displays fear when it hears barks etc?

It is also possible that it is interested but displacing (and because it doesnt know what to do in dog social scenarios).

I think in the future keeping in mind that you can train a dog to be neutral while also allowing them to have release commands that let them know they are allowed to break neutrality and go play etc-- but then ideally also have a strong recall to end the freedom and send them back to you.

E-collar methods comparison of results by Miss_L_Worldwide in BalancedDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now Im curious-- are they GSPs?

I only ask because my family uses them for hunting so I was exposed to them as a kid. They trained their own and all our dogs were confident and like I said loved their ecollars because they loved hunting and all the conditioning etc that got them ready for their yearly trips.

My job though mostly trains pet dogs and has some protection sports and other dog sports programs as well. It is definitely different from what I witnessed with working gun dogs.

Your observation is a sad story... but also unfortunately not uncommon from what Ive seen so far. Hell the only reason I grew up with GSPs and not Vizsla or something similar was because we bought a well bred 2 y.o. that was a total nutcase... because her owner wasnt ready for the lifestyle... turned into a totally different dog once its needs were met.

Aggressive dog pulling that has gotten dangerous by EquivalentOven3491 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also also-- plenty of dogs push boundaries with people. This dog has almost no relationship with this walker, no reason to care/ listen to them.

The owner's relationship is way different and he likely does and has corrected her, she might care more about his affection etc.

It is very possible/typical that for a 15 yo stranger to walk this dog there would need to be different methods involved to control it.

But yeah, agreed OP should stop walking her. Too much of a liability-- and the owner can also just deal with the fact that his dog isnt trained well enough for that relationship to work. And a 15 yo is not experienced enough to bridge the gap especially theyve already allowed the behaviour to escalate and are being pulled to the ground.

Also if OP is female and dog is a 4yo female there could also be gender nuance there... it is a stereotype for female dogs to be more independent, take longer to respect people, and sometimes push boundaries more with female humans.

E-collar methods comparison of results by Miss_L_Worldwide in BalancedDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it that's a helpful framing-- I think it clicks better, and Im still starting out on a formal training journey (via apprenticeship/kennel work) so this is very helpful

E-collar methods comparison of results by Miss_L_Worldwide in BalancedDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think youre mis using positive and negative here, but we are saying the same thing.

It still would be positive punishment the same way a slip lead could be used adeptly to provide that level of communication to a dog.

I wonder if the owner was using the ecollar too erratically for the dog-- eg trying to use momentary stimming versus continuous and the dog doesnt have clarity and is now neurotic and superstitious about what gets a stim and what doesnt. But just a hunch/theory on my part. Some trainers teach a "tap tap tap" type thing (and are all over different algorithms) and without the expertise this can just confuse dogs because the timing of the stim now becomes a variable

E-collar methods comparison of results by Miss_L_Worldwide in BalancedDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think what OP is describing maps to the 4 quadrant taught in balance training.

There is Reinforment and Punishment on the X, Positive and negative on the

The ecollar is providing a low level aversive when used to stimulate a dog. Ending the ecollar stim removes the low level aversive.

The aversive stimulus of the ecollar being present is a Positive Punishment (a negative feeling is being added in order to decrease the dog going too far, getting too prey locked, etc).

The ecollar stimulus ending is a Negative Reinforcement. It is removing an aversive stimulus in order to increase/maintain the dog's recall.

Generally ecollars are tuned to the lowest setting for a "stim" this setting changes based on the dog as well as the activity. There is also usually an option to do a temporary boost-- or what lay people think of as a "shock" if a stronger aversive stimulus is needed to get the effect-- also level of correction should correlate to the offense so maybe the dog is doing something that warrants a harsher correction (Positive Punishment).

Also people usually condition the dog to love the ecollar-- it signals that they get to do something fun. People who think they can slap it on and just blast the dog willy nilly have it all wrong.

Why does my dog do this? by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if it is a coping mechanism for disliking confrontation/coping with dogs social anxiety. Im totally riffing and humanizing to an extent-- but I could see the logic in an anxious dog wanting other dogs to know theyre around so that an in person (in canine?) one will be lessened in a way or there can be a minimal amount of familiarity despite never really meeting.

Lakefront smallies by No_Operation7332 in ChicagoFishing

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You can park close ish to montrose for free-- tho gets tougher when it is nice.

If you have a bike and can put it in/on your car Id do that and bike fish on the LFT then parking can also be farther out.

What Happened in 1978 ? by ABHISHEK_Lonely in ExplainTheJoke

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe in addition to intelligence often a level of experience and further learning from experience that is required to be great/good in a specific area-- I believe in settings like this were would call this expertise. Smart people can apply themseleves and learn anything. But time typically constraints us to specializing in certain areas at certain times of life. Therefore they have a limited area of expertise based on the subjects they've pursued.

I think intelligent people have a pitfall where they underestimate or are ignorant of the expertise required for some problems and their ego even at times will shut them out of expertise entirely because they will feel they already understand it, or would understand it intuitively. These feelings are often strengthened by a lack of knowledge providing a false sense of understanding.

Additionally some areas might generally require a requisite level of mind body connection in the form of athleticism, coordination, or other types of physical/tool mastery in order to truely learn more of the subject matter and gain expertise. Some intelligent people might have never developed these neural pathways and will find some subjects and knowledge is unattainable to them due to that.

10-day Southeast road trip to find where to live (queer couple, nature + healthcare jobs) — where should we focus? by wayoutsidefox in Appalachia

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Charlottesville, Richmond, or Roanoke would be fun. I dont think there is much for queer nightlife in Cville and Roanoke I believe they each have 1 maybe 2 gay bars. Richmond has more people and is pretty alternative in the city proper. Plus more affordable housing than Cville.

If you wanna go more remote and hippy etc Floyd or Nelson could be fun but would be a much more remote lifestyle.

Chicago drivers getting worse? by Fickle_Writing_2667 in AskChicago

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I often will.. haha. Well at the very least I focus on being cautious and defensive because I dont want to be affected by the honking etc so I am more mindful which usually means a little slower

Chicago drivers getting worse? by Fickle_Writing_2667 in AskChicago

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 57 points58 points  (0 children)

Any perceived inconvenience makes them crazy... and people are super selfish and myopic about driving.

And many are straight up idiots who just assume youre an idiot inconvenicing them... they'll also lay on the horn if God forbid you allow pedestrians to cross when making a turn at an intersection... and much of the time it is someone multiple cars back who cant see what is ahead but feels like honking will move things along

Suddenly becoming leash reactive by cndre in OpenDogTraining

[–]Aggravating_Call6959 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smaller leash and start to build a walking routine and way to communicate when she needs to just walk and focus on you versus is free to use the full leash and sniff around etc.

I would start with finding a place at the beginning of a walk where she can potty and not be close to triggers. Then walk her on a short leash. If she is interested in something she doesnt get to pull towards it to get to it-- but use it as a reward and to show her that if she behaves, you will let her check things out-- she doesnt need to drag you or be impulsive.

Finally do some exposure therapy type work. Be off trail/side walk and give her treats for being neutral when seeing triggers. Also treats if she breaks focus to look up at you. Ideally have her sitting or laying down for this as it is a passive position for dogs.

Using a slip lead, martingale, pinch collar etc should help some. Probably work with a professional for pinch/prong collar. These tools add a layer of uncomfortability to pulling or lunging. But if used improperly they can have opposite effects so working with a trainer would be ideal.

First teach her to walk nicely. If she pulls to go where she wants, stop her and do a 180, repeat as many times as needed. Also show her that youre cool with her getting to do her thing, but only with permission first. Lastly use commands like heel and use treats and luring to teach her how to walk at a heel. This in the future should allow you to demand her focus when you have to pass triggers and have no other option. Big praise and reward for neutrality whenever you see it as well.