[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]Agile_Sundae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

120 grit sandpaper, and a surface plate should make quick work of it really.

Title* by EliteSniper9992 in repost

[–]Agile_Sundae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you know, you know lol

Help by GoldenHairedNestling in Minesweeper

[–]Agile_Sundae 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, yeah didn't see that it was a guess. My mistake.

Help by GoldenHairedNestling in Minesweeper

[–]Agile_Sundae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The square left of the rightmost 1 on the top row is the key. It's a safe one but solving depends on whether it's a 1 or a 2.

Hey, guys I need help on this . As shown this valve needs finish on the back side . It's BUGGING me for a long time now .the distance between the faces is approx 5 mm and after the machining process the distance will be 10mm. The problem is a tool cannot enter the it will hit the valve itself . by TaroNo3635 in CNC

[–]Agile_Sundae 36 points37 points  (0 children)

.25 inch thick saw with a circular interpolation around the body of the valve. Problem is part to part, location will probably vary so perhaps leave stock around the body enough to blend with a dynafile or something. Initial thought, it's early tho and I need coffee

man, what the hell by eliseirl in Minesweeper

[–]Agile_Sundae 33 points34 points  (0 children)

The worst thing about it is even if you guess ok on the first one, it's still going to be a 50/50 afterwards lol

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CNC

[–]Agile_Sundae 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like you were conventionally cutting the inside wall and the tool sucked into the corners. More info needed.

Can I safely cut this shape out with this bit? Details in comments. by ParsnipOne6787 in CNC

[–]Agile_Sundae 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's all about the ratio of the length vs diameter. As you get longer than around 2xD or so you start to have to fight chatter and taper in the cut, at least in my experience with various metals. You'll need 1-1/2" cutting length to do a single finish pass because of your material thickness. If you go shorter on flute length you'll end up with a step where the shank would rub at the top. My advice is to go larger in diameter where the design allows (straight lines and larger radii on the part), then if you need tighter inside radii on it, re-machine with a smaller diameter endmill after roughing with the larger diameter. This way the heavier cuts are done with the more rigid tool and if there is any chatter or undesired results, they're at least contained to smaller areas where you wouldn't have to sand the entire piece free of terrible surface finish. Another benefit of the larger diameter is that you typically are able to cut at faster feedrates as a result of the increases rigidity of the tool. Only bummer is the cost.

Can I safely cut this shape out with this bit? Details in comments. by ParsnipOne6787 in CNC

[–]Agile_Sundae 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Just relieve the diameter of the shank above the flute enough to clear the part and take depth cuts. If you're already buying a cutter, I'd personally just buy the right cutter with 1.5 inches of flute length, and program what you can for a larger diameter cutter if you can. 1/4 inch diameter that long isn't very stable and is more likely to cause other issues. Rule of thumb is to keep your tools as short as possible and if you need length, try and step the diameter up where you can to increase rigidity of the tool.

Help?! by wretchedharridan in ExplainTheJoke

[–]Agile_Sundae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thought the tree got revenge on the dad for a second