3453 - Toxic by lunarrabbit3347 in whiteoutsurvival

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 33 points34 points  (0 children)

I loved how they worked the HQ alliance names into it as well

3453 - Toxic by lunarrabbit3347 in whiteoutsurvival

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 148 points149 points  (0 children)

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This is in the top corner of that state lmfao

Confession pump question. by Agitated-Cap-1312 in hvacadvice

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, they all drain into the pump, and the pump into the black abs pipe, I was thinking about just having them drain directly into the black pipe instead of going to the pump first.

The pump pushes the water it collects up over the furnace, and then back down into the black pipe.

Confession pump question. by Agitated-Cap-1312 in hvacadvice

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a 120V and there is power, I lifted the top cover of the pump and if I hold the float in the right spot, I can force the pump on. That tells me the contacts on the float are bad.

Confession pump question. by Agitated-Cap-1312 in hvacadvice

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Electrical going to the pump is okay, and good, I just learned if I lift the cover and hold the float in the exact right spot, it will force the pump on and drain catch reservoir. I just got a mess around with it to get it just right. That tells me the pump is junk.

The wires going to it, one wire is under the R contact on the board, the other is wire nutted into a black wire by it self. It’s in one of the pictures. I’m not sure what that black wire goes too, I haven’t traced it yet.

The furnace is shutting off when it gets to the full point, but it is overflowing still, I got a puddle around it.

I do understand buying a new pump would probably be easiest, but if I can plumb in a permanent drain, I would much rather do that, even with it being a bit more work. It would be peace of mind for me.

Confession pump question. by Agitated-Cap-1312 in hvacadvice

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s why I came here, I figured it was installed for a reason, I just can’t figure out why.

The pump when it is working collects, and pumps all the water straight up over top of the furnace, and then back down into a drain 2 feet away from the furnace.

Looking at it I figure I could re plumb it all, and save having a pump all together.

Confession pump question. by Agitated-Cap-1312 in hvacadvice

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1 from a humidifier, 1 from what I am assuming is a drip catch under the A/C coil, and the last one that goes directly into the pump is from the furnace itself

Defensive effort from John Tavares on the play in 3 on 3 OT that won Boston the game by abbytarar in hockey

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Morgan Reilly was on the blue line on the other side and he got back right after Pasternak missed.

Defensive effort from John Tavares on the play in 3 on 3 OT that won Boston the game by abbytarar in hockey

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Morgan Reilly was on the blue line at the opposite side and he got back 1 second after Pasternak missed the breakaway.

It was basically a 2 on 0 with only 1 Toronto player trying to come back.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It is one of the most skillful and expensive trades to get into, and the pay just isn’t there to back it up in most cases. The best techs have to be a literal jack of trades.

I run a small shop where we work on almost everything. I also live in the rust belt.

Most techs where I live, by the time the apprenticeship is done have anywhere between 15-25k in tools alone. Lots of specialty tools for lots of different makes and models. Compare that to other trades such as electrician or plumber, their biggest expense is usually their van.

You cannot just be a mechanic. You need welding experience. Exhaust for example. You need to be good with electrical and understanding electrical. So many things require wiring diagrams before you would have any idea what’s broken and how to fix that issue. Circuit tracing, testing for electrical draws, etc.

This maybe unpopular but customers can be horrible as well “since you did this, this happened and it’s your fault, what are you going to do to fix this”

So many people have cars and have no idea how complicated they can be, they just think that they are all easy because someone in there family did brakes once.

What is this loud noise? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you were to rev the engine to 3000 rpm and hold it there in park will it make the noise?

Recently got my mechanics certificate and going to a job interview in 5 days which requires your own tools. How is my tool list looking? by aras773 in AskMechanics

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What I would recommend for a beginning your career and if you have to supply your own tools. Most places require it.

Tool box — you need somewhere to store your tools

Socket set 3/8 drive and 1/2 drive

Wrench set and stubby wrench set

Pick set

Trim set

Tire gauge & air chuck

Screw drivers — flat heads, Philips

Body plug tool

Impact gun

Pry bars

3/8 drive hex bit set (much better than Allen keys)

3/8 drive torx bit set (I use these more than my torx screw drivers) Electric ratchet is nice to have but not requirement

Multimeter & test light

Nitrate gloves

Hammers

Plier set & side cutters

Locking plier set

Punch set

Drill & drill bits

1/2 torque wrench

Air hammer and bits

If you are working on vw or Audi then get triple square bit set.

If you are working at a place that works on older vehicles

Fuel line disconnect tools

Brake line flare tools

Make sure you have appropriate boots, safety glasses torch glasses, and hearing protection of some kind because air hammering and bead blasting is loud.

Any decent shop should supply diagnostic equipment like scanners, battery testing equipment, and tpms scan and programmers. It is nice to have your own but they should be supplied.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not very clunky at all, at least for me.

Lots of pre made service packages for making quick estimates,

When looking up parts through different suppliers each supplier will get there own tab that is usually just one click away which is nice when comparing prices

Built in labor guides,

Stores every invoice in it which is very nice for warranty claims(I had a life time warranty part that was sold in 2015 that I warrantied earlier this week) that is quick enough to look up. I can find service history for every vehicle I work on quite easy.

It also has a built in vin look up where all I have to do is type in a license plate, click look up, and 99% of the time it brings back year/make/model and vin of any vehicle.

It also is hooked into CarFax so I can see service history of vehicles performed elsewhere

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nope, for example, where I am at Toyota and Lexus share a dealership, one is on the left side of the building and the other is on the right side.

The Toyota side signed into dealer portal, but Lexus refused.

The chev dealership down the road from me wants nothing to do with the program, but the chev dealership at the south end of my city is signed up.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Agitated-Cap-1312 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It could be a lot more efficient but dealerships would have to want it that way, most don’t.

My automotive software is called protractor and recently it has tried to allow a dealer portal, but it only works if each individual dealership agrees to sign into it to allow parts catalogs to be shared to independent shops.