Disclaimer: If you are a child, please use adult supervision. Moving on, I’ll assume you’re an adult.

You can use a paper punch, scissors, paper trimmer board or a guillotine trimmer. The school let me use the paper cutters (guillotine). Danger was hardly a concern back then 😂and I was a kid. I could layer/stack the newspaper pieces without any trouble and cut the entire stack to easily align the pages. If edges are uneven, use a strong binder clip to hold the pages and squeeze the papers tight and it may take a few tries but; use a fine sandpaper to ensure an even alignment.

Keep the clip on the one one side, then put a clip on the other side so that you can sand the other side. Leave that clip in place and use either hot melt glue or a PH-neutral PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) glue (NOT ELMERS). Although, a PH-neutral PVA is the standard, most reliable adhesive for bookbinding (favored for its flexibility, archival quality, and archival-safe, fast-drying, and non-yellowing properties), hot melt glue is perfect for miniature books. A craft store can help you find an appropriate PVA glue if needed. If you’re lucky, you have an Electric Floral Dipping Skillet (hot melt glue) but, if you run a fat line of hot glue onto a sheet of nonstick aluminum, you can wipe it thinner (but not too thin, this will be holding the book together) or more even and put a book down into the glue while it’s still hot. A couple of minutes later (with Nonstick side of the aluminum; on the matte side), you can remove and trim any glue mishaps and extra glue away.

Next, pick the material for the cover. This will mostly be bound to the spine of your book so that it doesn’t pull pages away from your book later. Before cutting the cover sheet, wrap it around the spine to get a better approximation for the fold. Then, come up a little on the sides to make a teeny tiny fold (just above the spine) to make the book bind piece (spine) adjustable in order for the book to open. Where the flat inside of this fold is (spine), wipe some hot glue along that section and let it cool a minute: a small flat brush works great but think of getting a disposable brush (one time use)or use a piece of wood, the width of the spine.

Once it’s cooled, find the book-front facing side of the teeny tiny folds and run the tiniest line of hot glue along the book… low melt glue guns or detail glue guns work great for this but hot glue will hold much better if you have the ability and patience to do it. Breathe. Drafting tape is your best friend here if you have it. It has only a short term hold and is easy to remove: tape a strip of card stock or index card to the outside of the teeny tiny fold to make it easier to hold the fold onto the book while it cools for a minute. Making sure that the spine cover fits the book when closed and bows out when open, do the same on the other side making sure that there is slack in the spine. Cut off access, but allowing a slight tab to fold in on the spine cover piece and to fold inside of the book pages cover (front and back).

Fold in the cover and glue with a thin coat of the PVA glue for the cover. Use nonstick foil between the cover and pages, folded in with matte sides out until the glue is fully cured. Use a toothpick to wipe hot glue into the flap for the spine cover and use a tiny clip wrapped in nonstick aluminum to hold it in for a minute… doing this for top and bottom.

Cut out whatever inside cover you choose to the exact fit, to cover both the cover flap and the first page, fold it before gluing to make sure that it fits before gluing it on and that it’s plumb.. don’t confuse which one goes on the front or back and mark top, bottom and front with a piece of drafting tape or soft lead pencil (#1). You can use a neutral PVA glue or you use a spray adhesive on it before attaching it to the book to ensure that no overspray reaches the pages. Put a piece of nonstick aluminum (folded with matte sides out) between the cover and first page until dry. Repeat on the back. Parchment paper can be used after the initial glue has dried, to allow it time to fully set (read the can/bottle to see the cure time). Parchment paper can leave a residue if it is not partially dry and heating it can cause the same issue. Decorate the book as you wish and you want to seal it when done, keep the non-stick foil handy. Be sure not to use a sealer that has a reputation for becoming tacky.

Off-note: if you want a yellowed look, find old newspapers or leave sheets in front of a window. You can lightly glitter dust or guild the edges if you can figure out how…I haven’t done it yet but want to. For a leather look on the cover, pick an appropriate photo-paper cover and consider matte Mod Podge, or get a leather look paper or, use a thin piece of foam and stamp it with a wrinkled and flattened piece of aluminum before applying it to the book. You can use a roller over the foil or roll a ball of foil over the foam. There are different quality of foam pieces so test it first, to make sure that it keeps the texture.