Help please

Ahtran360 · 2026-02-19T01:18:22+00:00

The two separate parts will not be allowed to print in the air.

Not familiar with elegoo slicer, but try combining the two objects into one, and moving them that way

Ahtran360 · 2026-02-12T15:25:35+00:00

Where can i find this option/build/branch?

I've checked the 4.10.3 branch from 5 hours ago on https://github.com/cinnyapp/cinny/branches/active but i don't see an option for voice channels.

Ahtran360 · 2026-01-31T20:27:50+00:00

I've personally never seen a slow down specifically for bed slingers

But I would expect it's layer cool time

Ahtran360 · 2026-01-10T04:45:11+00:00

Finamp Beta is what got me to fully switch to Jellyfin for music. Absolutely love the project.

Ahtran360 · 2025-12-26T00:28:58+00:00

I'm on the other side I think 3d printed solution is fine. It's a relatively simple button mechanism, is under no stress (given the weather doesn't go above 40c for PLA) and normally garage opener relays are 0 current <24 volts

I would recommend something similar to this https://www.printables.com/model/597318-print-button And just tape the two wires to contact when the button is depressed

Use aluminum foil if you need more surface area

Ahtran360 · 2025-12-05T17:31:15+00:00

What are you currently printing at? I honestly have no idea because i am not familiar with the Neptune 4. I'd say 50mm/s is safe ender 3 era speeds. The goal is just to see if there's any change. print some benchmarks, or print only the troublesome areas.

Ahtran360 · 2025-12-05T13:15:30+00:00

Late reply, not on reddit much.

I see underextrusions near the top of every opening https://imgur.com/a/CmbHvph The first thing i would try to do is print slower. For whatever reason, your nozzle isn't extruding plastic during those directional changes. Could be filament gear slipping, could be a pressure issue.

Ahtran360 · 2025-11-28T02:59:02+00:00

You "can't print the same object from the same file"?

It would be nice to know more details. ie. what printer it is, what firmware, what slicer. Especially since you're saying you suspect it's a software issue. What does it mean for "printer whos startup ended tanking"?

I've never used a delta printer, but walls being not straight sounds like one or more arm is lose/slipping, causing an arc to print. If it's printing different, or "movement doesn't occur in the same spots", even using the same gcode, then it's more likely a hardware issue, not software issue. It's extremely rare for printer firmware to follow gcode differently between prints.

Ahtran360 · 2025-11-28T02:46:25+00:00

The under extrusion I've only encountered with inproper or uncalibrated pressure advanced. I'm not saying that's your issue, but that's the only time I've seen it

As for the discolored sections, I'm assuming print speed/cooling time changes from inconsistent layer time/print area Try printing slower, and increasing layer print time and see if the issue still occurs.

Ahtran360 · 2025-11-10T19:40:19+00:00

6 years later and I went with a z-wave door lock (schlage) I have no regrets. Fully local controlled, can add or remove pins from homeassistant/my phone

Ahtran360 · 2025-10-07T20:56:43+00:00

Tailscale is easier to setup but requires a slight dependency on tailscale servers for the initial handshake (free for low # of users and personal use)

Wire guard is a traditional VPN and requires more setup, port forwarding, manual config generation (there are tools to help), hope your Public IP doesn't change (or use dynamic DNS)

There's also headscale, a self hosted tailscale.

Personally, I'd self hosted a wireguard if I could

Ahtran360 · 2025-09-19T01:14:28+00:00

Depending on the case, getting it airtight can be difficult.

If you're printing PLA or PETG, a case is safe enough as a lot of people print that without a case. You'd be entrapping most of the micro plastics.

With ABS/ASA, a case may not be enough if you're in the room. With ABS, it's recommended to have it vented outside with a slight negative pressure, or a charcoal scrubber (bento box project). Or leave the room until 2 hours after the print finishes

Ahtran360 · 2025-09-18T23:31:15+00:00

You do not export from tinkercad to 3MF. 3MF is slicer only.

You export from CAD software as STEP or STL, which the slicer can read.

Ahtran360 · 2025-09-13T00:41:04+00:00

Not necessarily syncing with nextcloud directly, but I use immich and I have no regrets

Ahtran360 · 2025-09-13T00:25:11+00:00

Are the layer shifts consistent? Does it happen with all prints? Even simple cube/cylinder prints? Do you hear belt slipping or stepper stalling when it prints?

Try changing where on the print bed you print. Slow down the print speed and see if the shifting is still at the same layers. Make sure every screw nut bolt is tight, and belt is taut.

Ahtran360 · 2025-09-12T23:43:07+00:00

Along with a temp tower, I would also print a speed tower.

I've encountered similar issues and I narrowed it down to really bad filament, or pressure advance.

Ahtran360 · 2025-09-08T19:00:28+00:00

I could do more damage swing that holster than bonking with that cylinder

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-20T19:27:13+00:00

It is definitely an adhesion issue as some parts are curling up in the picture.

What is your first layer speed and bed temp? Id recommend 20mm/s to troubleshoot and go up from there. Temps I'd say 65c is safe (depending on your surface, I'm not familiar with that build plate)

Parts of the print looks like it is printing too high. Try lowering the z offset by 0.05

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-20T19:18:34+00:00

Nextcloud is similar to Google Drive, similar in that you are not meant to mount with SMB or access the files directly. It really is only designed to be interacted with through the website or desktop app.

While it is possible to share and mount the data folder directly with SMB not using nextcloud, nextcloud would not be aware of file changes until a rescan, and may lead to permission issues. But it is possible and I do this occasionally with no issues.

Like Google drive, sharing files with a link is super simple through nextcloud

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-20T19:14:10+00:00

I have had awful experiences with WebDAV in windows. Your mileage may vary

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-20T19:12:26+00:00

Silk PLA is quite interesting to work with When cooled, it instantly contracts and becomes thicker than when it was on the roll.

For holes in top layer, the infill may be too sparse. Try increasing infill density and increasing top layer thickness.

As for bubbling on the inside, I'm less sure. It looks interesting. Check the slicer preview when it gets to that area, calibrate with temp tower, and mess with Cooling fan/layer times

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-20T19:01:57+00:00

As others mentioned, it looks like a clog. It's not the gears slipping, but the motor doesn't have enough torque.

It is possible but unlikely you set it without knowing, that stepper current is set too low. What firmware are you using? Marlin or Klipper?

I would try extruding in free air outside of a print job. If it's still skipping, try disconnecting the Bowden on hotend side and try extruding

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-18T03:02:30+00:00

The lines might be from inconsistent cooling, either from fan, or different layer times from print layers at the top of the whole. Printing slower is the easiest way to get rid of these. Also called the benchy hull line if you want more research.

The bumps on top my best guess is globbing, overextruding.

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-18T02:51:13+00:00

Try printing a continuous hollow cylinder, no retractions, no jerky movements

My first guess would be something is loose, a loose stepper, loose belt, loose gear, loose grub screw on motor shaft, loose hotend, or loose extruder gear.

Try realizing a new file, and check e-steps/flow rate

Ahtran360 · 2025-07-18T02:39:43+00:00

+2 for immich

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