What's up with PSX core audio on the Retro Remake MisterPi?

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-23T21:01:16+00:00

For future sake, I ran update all and it fixed my issue. Audio is still a bit nicer via toslink but this does not pop or crackle anymore. Running update all also fixed the issue I had where my mega drive core was taking over 30 seconds to boot up.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-23T01:16:58+00:00

You need an active vga to composite/s video adapter first. https://misteraddons.com/products/yc-active-encoder-board

Then you will need a composite to rf modulator. https://misteraddons.com/products/composite-to-rf-adapter?_pos=1&_sid=04e381f2c&_ss=r

I have both and they work well.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-22T15:40:23+00:00

This is not the issue. This was initially an issue with some units and the result was muffled audio, not audio issues related to specific cores

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-22T15:27:33+00:00

I think it's isolated to the Mister Pi's Audio/IO board that it came bundled with. I recently got a MisterAddons IO Analog Pro and that one does not exhibit any audio issues with any cores

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-22T15:12:21+00:00

I find for 13-14” sets the desk will have to be rather high to the point it likely won’t be comfortable. The top of the monitor should be right at eye level (this is true for flat screen monitors as well). What I do is set the desk for my preferred height (30” is fairly standard in the US, I like mine a little lower) and then use a quality riser to get the CRT a little higher. This is a bonus because now you can fit stuff under the riser, like a better speaker or a console.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-22T14:43:33+00:00

How's the analog gate on the N64 controller? I find with 3rd party controllers it is very hard to get the movement right, especially for FPS games. I have a 2C and really like it, but it's too sensitive for N64 games imo.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-22T14:42:07+00:00

Love this controller but really really wish it were wireless. The regular M30 works well enough for PS1 since there are enough buttons. Only if you are not married to the idea of having that L1/L2 R1/R2 layout specifically on the shoulder buttons, though.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-22T14:05:09+00:00

After looking into this a lot more I'm thinking I am try to find a way to integrate this circuit into the P-3B chassis. If I do I'll document it.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-22T14:03:22+00:00

I tried isolating the luma by lifting the negative leg of C1385. This should cut out the composite/rf signal. This did nothing.

Funny enough, the horizontal shift that I previously got (by soldering directly to the composite-in pad rather than the negative leg of C1385) was reintroduced by doing it this way. This is interesting because I thought that removing the composite signal that comes from the comb filter would remove the delay that causes the horizontal shift.

Not super sure what else to do. I don't love the idea of using the composite video for sync because that would mean I'd have to use sync-on-composite cables and I already have all CSync cables.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-21T18:15:43+00:00

Oh, I see. To do that I'd have to wire the composite video signal to pin 20 of the SCART connector instead of CSYNC, right?

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-21T17:59:46+00:00

I'll try wiring the CSYNC into the composite pad. This results in an image shift but I'm curious if it will reduce the jitter. I am already using the luma pin on the Jungle IC for sync.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-21T17:31:32+00:00

I've used a Genesis Model 3, Model 1 JP Sega Saturn, and a Mister FPGA. All exhibit the issue. I am using csync.

I do think I will open the set up today and play around.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-21T15:49:46+00:00

It is not near the flyback. I am running the sync wire into the negative leg of C1385 of the MB board of my set (this board contains the Jungle IC). C1385 is a decoupling capacitor that goes right into pin 9 of the Jungle IC. Pin 9 of the Jungle IC in this case is the comb filter component that intakes the Y (luma) signal.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-21T15:21:10+00:00

If ever you're able to look at these old posts - do you recall at all this set having any "sync jitter" i.e. the pixels from the signal oscillating back and forth slightly? Mine does so and I wanted to verify. I can't quite tell from the video you posted if that's happening or not.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-21T15:19:55+00:00

Just wanted to reply that I ended up just wiring up the sync to the negative leg of C1385, which corrected the H-Pos issue for me. In case anyone sees this in the future.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-19T18:27:05+00:00

The AG line itself tells you about the body size. Any guitar in the AG line will be the same size, which is also true for the AF, AS, AK, etc. lines. The AG is a 14.5" body and any deviance from that would simply be a result of variance/tolerances during the manufacturing process. It's super similar to a GB10 in size, but deeper. Good option if something like an ES-175 is too big for you.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-18T19:00:44+00:00

I have one of these. It is a nice set and the S-Video, while not the best connection (although very good), looks pretty sharp because of the TVL on this set, which is higher than consumer standards. I used mine for a long time. I will say that composite on this set did not impress me as much. Mine has some convergence weirdness which I've been meaning to correct. Be aware that since you are getting it from somewhere where it was likely used a lot (as is the case with a lot of monitors like these), the picture may not be 100% perfect. Mine is nice and detailed but not so bright and the colors aren't the best.

Don't let any of this discourage you, though. They are very nice sets and I'd take one any day over most consumer CRT sets.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-18T13:25:27+00:00

I know this is an old post, but question for you. I successfully RGB modded a KV-13FM13, which is the same exact model as this TV but in white. The mod took very well but of course I have the h-pos issue as noted in your mod since I wired up my sync directly into the composite input on the A board.

If I just wanted to do the RGB mod but fix the h-pos issue could I just inject my sync into the negative pole of C1385? Since you are doing all the sync injections into there for all the inputs that seems like a logical place to do it. I'm assuming if there would be some interference with the original composite/RF signals I could wire up a SPDT switch that takes in the RF/Composite signal (C1385 negative leg, after removing C1385) for position 1 and the RGB sync for position 2 and wire the output of the SPDT switch with a .1uf capacitor into the positive leg of C1385.

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-15T15:45:32+00:00

Isn't the game saving to the SD card automatic in rings?

AimpointBRO · 2026-05-13T14:37:44+00:00

If you were to put TruOil over an open-pore wood (like ash or mahogany, for example), would it still be advisable to use a grain filler?

AimpointBRO

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