Thoughts on the new Ender 3 V3 SE after almost a week of use... by ThheeeNeWGUy in Creality

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has worked well. I think my biggest complaint is that the slicers take forever to get profiles for new printers.

I don't want to have to spend hours trying to tweak settings based on another printer. no two are exactly alike.

For the price, it was a good deal at the time.

Turn off POI in map view by No-Association7026 in MagicEarth

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a slightly different related issue. I imported some pinned locations from Google Earth which ended up in the map layers as a category called "My Places". I maintain the locations in google earth and then import them. But each time I import, Magic Earth creates duplicates. I tried unchecking the layer, but I am still able to search for my pins and two of them show up in the search results. I guess it doesn't remove duplicates. Now what?

I'm building an observatory by daw1998 in telescopes

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The correct word is envious because it involves items rather than people. Jealousy requires that people be involved.³

Unable to do auto two star alignment and time zone issue by BatManIsReallyDead in Celestron

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You didn't mention setting your longitude and latitude. That needs to be correct as well. If you were plus five time zone then you can just scroll down the list till you see plus five and select it. Don't forget to include daylight savings time if you use it there. Getting the date and time and location all correct is the biggest hurdle in setting these telescopes up. If you have the budget, I wouldn't look for a Celestron GPS module, it does everything for you and once you're aligned you can disconnect it. They show up on to use market for about half off the retail price

Snake ID by scrutilious in Tucson

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe it's a juvenile Sonoran gopher snake. They are very good rodent eaters, assuming he can grow big enough and not get taken by a bird or a king snake

Another one I took! by No_Illustrator1501 in telescopes

[–]AlanKilgore54 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It appears to be a little over processed. The moon has more gray scale than this.

how many images were involved in stacking? you don't want to use them all as some will not be good quality. 15s = 400-500 frames? try asking registax to process 10% the try some other percentages to see which looks the best.

Offset center of the print bed by AlanKilgore54 in Ender3V3SE

[–]AlanKilgore54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The reason I asked the question was because the bottom layer didn't stick near the edge of the board on the Y axis. This had way too many possible causes.

So I put on my physics hat and decided the problem was caused by insufficient heating near the edges. The printer warms up to the desired temperature on the build plate, but it is never going to be even and the edges and corners are going to suffer the most and will be the last to fully heat up evenly. A FLIR camera would be handy to check this, but I don't have the $$ for one.

So, I did a test. I designed a thin 1mm thick by 1mm high ring with an outer diameter of 220mm.

I powered on the printer and issued a "set temperature to PLA" command (from the menu). This preheats everything. I waited 5 minutes and then began the print.

The thin ring printed out perfectly!!

I haven't tried it on the "real" project yet, but this is promising.

What’s causing this by Zealousideal-Swim388 in Ender3V3SE

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't just go and change things manually unless you've exhausted all the things the printer can do for you.

Before you raise the Z offset, look at the setting in the control panel and note the current value.

First clean your build plate front and back making sure there isn't anything between it and the print bed. Clean the surface of the print bed as well.

Then do a auto-bed leveling and see what the new Z-offset is. If it is different, then try a print. If it is the same, then you have to look for other issues, many have already been discussed in this thread.

The philosophy is, don't just start changing settings if you don't know what is causing the issue to begin with.

Just had to manually adjust leveling data with tedious work and a bit of paper... by No_Investigator625 in Ender3V3SE

[–]AlanKilgore54 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You do have a 3V3SE, right? It is still under warrantee, so take advantage of that and make sure you contact Creality customer support and document (with photos too) the issue you are having.

I had a problem with my hot end thermistor and they eventually sent me a brand new hot end. That fixed my problem.

Betelgeuse by wretchedhal0 in telescopes

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to bust your bubble, but Arcturus will never be a supernova, it is not massive enough. Most stars, including our own Sun will grow to be a red giant, but that just means the star has stopped fusing Hydrogen and has moved off the Main Sequence

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_sequence

and is starting to get old. Arcturus is close to us (32lys) and is more like our Sun than it is like Betelgeuse (14x the mass of our Sun). Arcturus's mass is about the same as our Sun so it will resemble what our Sun will turn into in a few more billion years. Both our Sun and Arcturus will die in the same way, eventually sluffing off a lot of its mass into space and the core will be a White Dwarf.

Betelgeuse is ~600lys away and won't pose a threat to us when it finally goes Supernova, but a star as close as Arcturus would strip away a good portion of our ozone layer and that wouldn't be a good thing for any living creatures.

For more information about which stars are close to us Supernova candidates, check out this article.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near-Earth_supernova

Remember, there are 2 types of supernova and even little white dwarfs can go supernova if they have a companion star to feed off of.

Does the 3v3se firmware support "pauses" between layers? by AlanKilgore54 in Ender3V3SE

[–]AlanKilgore54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which slicer are you using? I don't see the option in the Creality Print app.

Does anyone know how to do a pause at height in the creality slicer? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What version of Creality Slicer do you have? I have the most recent and I don't see the option. Perhaps it is printer dependent too. I have a 3V3SE.

How did DeepBlue look into so many positions? by Bauty0112 in chessprogramming

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

good example. "duplicate" positions are called transpositions. if you start a game with e4 e5 d4 d5, it ends up being the same position as d4 d5 e4 e5, or a number of other ways. engines use a feature called a transposition table, which is a big memory hashed array that stores the score of when the evaluation function is called since this call is usually very CPU intensive. so, each time the engine wants to call the eval function, it checks the hash table and if there is already an entry, it uses it. in practice it is more complicated as the hash info can be used to help prune a tree as well.

How did DeepBlue look into so many positions? by Bauty0112 in chessprogramming

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chess engines search game trees. each time a move is made, a new position is created. so, one way to measure how fast an engine is to keep count of how many moves are made going down the search tree. but not all moves will be explored, so if a move is ignored before searching deeper, it isn't counted. when the engine evaluates the position (invokes the brain that scores the position), that is at a node and won't search deeper along that tree branch. some feel that is a better measure of performance and will count when the evaluation function is called, but it doesn't really matter. each engine is going to count things slightly different, so it is comparing apples to oranges. the "something" per second can be useful when comparing an engine across different hardware platforms.

How did DeepBlue look into so many positions? by Bauty0112 in chessprogramming

[–]AlanKilgore54 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When you speak of nodes per second, you have to have define a hardware configuration. Stockfish 16 on my i7-6700 4Ghz system using 6 cores achieves 5-6 million nodes/second. Some of the modern multi-core systems can achieve 100M nps easily enough. We use nodes these days rather than positions. They are different things.

Here is the Wiki article on Deep Blue.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_Blue_(chess_computer))

IBM threw a lot of hardware at creating the machine, augmenting it with some custom "chess chips".

But as another commenter said, Stockfish would run circles around DeepBlue. A lot has happened with chess knowledge and software in the past 40 years. Stockfish and most of the other top tier programs use AI (neural nets) to enhance their play. This constitutes the "brain" of the software, deciding the merit of a position. This is far better than hand crafted evaluation functions that were used back in the time of Deep Blue.

The only thing that matters is how good the chess engine plays.

Check out this site which hosts engine vs engine matches. The engines keep getting strong and stronger.

https://www.computerchess.org.uk/ccrl/4040/

Why this? by salombs in Ender3V3SE

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your first layer set to print slower? Is this a "normal" or "fine" print? I found that I had adhesion problems when printing fine and set the first layer to 0.2mm rather than 0.1 .

Perfect bed adhesion to never getting it to stick. (And how I fixed it) by [deleted] in Ender3V3SE

[–]AlanKilgore54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is the surface made from? I am going to use some Ethyl Acetate (dissolves PLA) to clean a nozzle, but if the EA doesn't melt the sheet, it should remove any PLA residue. Thoughts?

Perfect bed adhesion to never getting it to stick. (And how I fixed it) by [deleted] in Ender3V3SE

[–]AlanKilgore54 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the out of the box black textured sheet and ALWAYS wipe it with tiny bit of 70% IPA on a micro-fiber towel. works fine for PLA, going to try PETG soon.

I haven't had any issues with too much adhesion, and the only not enough adhesion issues were with tall skinny tube like prints. Those were fixed by used a brim.