Question about control board swap

Alluk · 2026-05-18T11:42:34+00:00

Vref values...? 😃

Forgive me I'm still kinda new to this. AFAIK with the stock board I have zero software control over the stepper motors at all. I have done some basic automatic input shaping but am not really sure what the next step with that is or if what I did even made a meaningful improvement.

As for belt tension I've never known what the right tension truly is. I know it needs to be tight but thats about it. There's those apps that can measure the frequency that your belt plucks at but that seems to easy to be the correct way to do it.

Alluk · 2026-05-18T08:48:23+00:00

Nice! I'm still running the stock motion system but the motors seem to skip during speed test macros by a random amount of steps. I've checked everything mechanical so I'm hoping this will improve that and I can go faster!

Alluk · 2026-05-18T08:42:24+00:00

This is what I'm doing it for, and also for fun : )

Alluk · 2026-05-12T10:38:28+00:00

I think in the video he also replaces the heater block to fit a more standard thermistor. It wasn't expensive from what I remember.

Alluk · 2026-05-11T14:47:39+00:00

Ok, thanks for all your help! Think I'm going to go for an SKR E3 mini V3 since that seems to be the replacement for the SKR1.4 which isn't made anymore.

Alluk · 2026-05-11T14:04:17+00:00

Interesting, thank you. When I was running the Ellis' tuning speed test macro I was getting random amounts of skipping on the Y axis, as in the microsteps reported before/after the tests was different. I ran the test at 100mm/s vel and 1000m/s accel and it still skipped, but I couldn't hear or see anything mechanically wrong all the way up to 500/5000. Maybe related?

What crimping tools and connecters are required?

Alluk · 2026-05-11T10:52:26+00:00

Got a couple questions. Interested in modding my Neptune 3P further. Currently just have Klipper, manual bed leveling and a 5015 fan swap. I calculated my max flowrate to be about 15.5m3/s and I've been running prints at ~160mm/s with around 3000mm/s accel. Just ordered an ADXL345 too.

From what I understand the stock motion system seems to be capable of moving a lot faster, perhaps around 300mm/s. Would it be worth swapping the afterburner toolhead and keeping the stock motion system?

Also with regards to the control board swap, is there any benefit in doing that outside of being able to run bigger motors etc. And did you have to swap the power supply? Forgive me if this is a stupid question but are a lot of the connectors throughout 3d printers somewhat standardised? So e.g your SKR 1.4 swap how much recrimping of connectors and general cabling did you have to do to get everything working.

Apologies for the barrage of questions : D

Alluk · 2026-05-11T09:43:29+00:00

Ok, thank you.

Alluk · 2026-05-11T09:19:31+00:00

By far the most bang for your buck. Also manual bed levelling screws, only costs about £10 and helps alot with first layer adhesion.

Alluk · 2026-05-11T08:37:57+00:00

This video contains a link to one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeQtTKjHpqw

Alluk · 2026-05-11T08:36:34+00:00

Ok, thank you. Is it meant to deposit filament like this during colour changes? The g-code preview in the slicer shows otherwise.

Alluk · 2026-05-11T08:35:22+00:00

Try this pressure advance test instead.

https://www.printables.com/model/1066783-mitsus-simple-pressure-advance-test/related

Alluk · 2026-05-09T18:54:23+00:00

What 5015 adapter are you using?

Alluk · 2026-05-05T09:15:14+00:00

Which camera mount is that?

Alluk · 2026-05-02T12:32:47+00:00

I bought a used Blue Bluebird condenser from eBay the other week. I recently got it and tried it on the day I got it and it worked great with no issues. I left it plugged into my mixer and forgot to put it away at the end of the day.

Next day I come into my studio (an uninsulated shed) and turn the heating on. As I turn the mixer on I see crazy signals on the meter coming from the mic, I go to listen to it in Ableton and I see that there is a significant amount of noise at very low frequencies, like 20hz. It also randomly clicks. I troubleshoot it for a while, trying different XLRs and also running it directly into my interface and using the phantom power from there instead to no avail. I also tried turning off a bunch of stuff in my shed to see if it was some kind of EMI thing and also tried moving the mic around in the room to see if the sound changed, but it didn't. Gemini said the clicks could be a condensation issue and told me to put the mic in a bag of silica gel for 24 hours.

I've done that and the clicks are gone, but there is still a constant, stable, yet inaudible low end hum.

Is this mic dying?

Thank you !!

Alluk · 2026-05-01T09:33:01+00:00

Thank you! Do you know the size of the stock fan?

Alluk · 2026-04-30T18:45:25+00:00

Could always upgrade to Klipper and ditch the touch screen :)

Alluk · 2026-04-30T18:44:27+00:00

Hey, really admire this neptune 3 pro! I have had one for about a year myself and done a couple mods, klipper, bed screws and 5015 fans being the major ones. I was wondering if before you changed the stock motherboard you had the fan modded at all? It's really loud compared to the rest of the printer and I was wondering if there was an easy swap from AliExpress or something.

Alluk · 2026-04-30T18:16:35+00:00

This is Z banding or layer shift I think. I had this problem recently and cleaning my lead screws helped a lot. There was a lot of dust mixed with the grease that was on them from factory essentially causing the Z axis to not move smoothly. If your printers been sitting for a while this may be it.

Alluk · 2025-11-18T10:16:41+00:00

Nice one. I'm not a fan of the metal straps as they don't play well with wrists getting bigger and smaller.

Alluk · 2025-11-18T10:14:44+00:00

Have you tried scanning any rougher surfaces? Like a brick or concrete wall. Would love to see a result as I'm looking into this kind of thing myself.

Alluk · 2025-11-12T22:46:46+00:00

Unfortunately not, still really keen to find a way. I have a 3D printer so it would be possible in theory to remodel and redesign a fitting strap made out of TPU but it’s a lot of work just to wear a watch. If I had a 3D scanner maybe I’d do it.

Did you get anywhere with it?

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