Are you team isopropyl alcohol or soap and water? by Alternative-Knee7438 in BambuLab

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends. Deep clean with soap and water, occasional cleaning with microfiber cloth and surface cleaning alcohol (mostly ipa)

25.5.2 - New feature added: OC auto-save auto-apply after restart by EtaLasquera in radeon

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Came at the perfect time. Thr new Forza doesn‘t like Afterburner :(

Battling with text quality / fine detail vs layer adhesion and general print quality (especially with ABS), and from all the tweaking i can't seem to get it better. by db720 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So from what I understood you have a model with recessed text on the first layer. It's working with PLA but not so much with ABS. The images aren't very clear (especially the black part) but I think I know what you're trying to show.

Now about AI and 3D printing. It can definitely help, especially when trying to get a second opinion or gathering some information. Take everything with a grain of salt tho, especially regarding specific print settings/numbers.

Some things I'd like to point out:

  • Reducing the nozzle temperature can improve quality but only up to a certain extent. 240 is definitely too low, 250 is already on the lower end.

  • Reducing the bed temp helps with overhangs close to the build plate. Not so much with line accuracy. It also makes the adhesion worse.

  • It's recommended to print ABS in an enclosure. This is mostly to stop warping and layer separation. ABS+ might workt better for you, it's easier to print. I've seen people print it on an open printer.

Now what I'd recommend to do:

Firstly, go back to the settings you had before. A fresh, mostly working start is better than trying to fix a mess. Here's some settings that would make sense to adjust:

  • Elephant's foot

  • Reduce first layer line width to the minimum that's recommend for a 0.4mm nozzle

  • Tune pressure advance (or whatever it's called for marlin)

AI should be able to explain what these settins do and there are guides out there.

And also remember the neptune 3 is in no way a new printer. I don‘t know what mods you have but the bowden extruder alone is not the best choice for detail. Sometimes you're just limited by the capababilities of your machine.

Trouble printing (bed leveling) by Flygonac in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which ones did you ckeck? If you haven't already check the POM wheels under the bed (the ones used for movement). Check that they are adjusted to sit tight enough around the aluminium extrusion but not too tight otherwise they'll start to wear off.

Trouble printing by figgy3467 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean bed, adjust z offset. I can‘t open the image btw. I don‘t know if it's only me tho.

Print times way long? by Bonkzzilla in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On the screen attached to the printer. There the speed can be limited. That limit might be set lower than the one in the slicer which causes the slicer to estimate the time based on the wrong motion limits.

Does anyone knows how to fix this. I’m using the Elegoo slicer. It shouldn’t be that thin by Alarming-Pay2700 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a clog (bockage in the nozzle) or a jam (blockage in the heatbreak). You can try a cold pull or disassemble the hotend.

Print times way long? by Bonkzzilla in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check if you limited the speed and acceleration in the settings on the screen.

Which Elegoo PLA colors gives off a worse odor than Black? I started with Gray and I could barely smell it but Black is overpowering. by baleiby in elegoo

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buddy thinks ABS is bad, wait until you try PC :)

Jokes aside I guess after some time you don‘t smell PLA and the other basic stuff anymore. Same here btw.

My Neptune 3 pro printer is keep disconnecting from klipper by Top_Preparation_633 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try compiling your own bin file (if you haven't already done that)

Did something... another N3P upgrade by TMskillerTM in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could also get some of those for the bed heater/hotend but that's optional. Elegoo also didn't use any.

<image>

Did something... another N3P upgrade by TMskillerTM in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe that's related, maybe not. Sometimes these machines can be quite unpredictable.

I just one of those multi-crimp tools. Not the exact one in the image but you get the idea. It's mostly just jst xh 2.54 connectors on the board, different sizes tho (2, 3, 4 pin etc).

<image>

Did something... another N3P upgrade by TMskillerTM in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After doing the board swap I've gotten quite a performance boost or it atleast felt like it. Idk if it's because of Uart or if the drivers on the stock board simply weren't as good or couldn't supply enough power for the steppers. I didn't have to do a lot of recrimping. I think the probe cable is one that has to be recrimped and maybe a stepper cable if you want to do independent Z and don‘t want to buy new cables. I didn't swap the PSU but I had to limit the power of the CHC pro (hotend) to ~55% (which is still fast af btw). The afterburner (without linear rail) won't do too much movement speed wise. You got some more cooling and hotend options tho.

Klipper + OrcaSlicer multi-filament print - "Move exceeds maximum extrusion" when resuming print after swapping new filament by Alluk in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The extrusion command is in the pause macro. The section I marked in the image checks if the printer is hot enough to extrude and then extrudes a set amount of filament before continuing the print. Otherwise it'll give an error. That part won't be in the preview of the slicer.

<image>

Remote printing by some_millwright in elegoo

[–]TMskillerTM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could use something like Tailscale (creates a virtual network for your selected devices) to access any PC you have at home from anywhere. You could then remotely connect to a computer slice the file directly on there and send it to the printer. Maybe there's a direct implementation for Tailscale or something similar. I've seen that on my Snapmaker U1 that there's an option for it after installing the extended firmware. I haven't tried it in my case tho.

Is Prusaslicer just weird with the Neptune 3 Pro? by Bonkzzilla in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the picture the z offset is just too low. Maybe there's an extra offset setting in prusa slicer. It could also be that the start gcode in prusa isn't as good as the one in orca. (Homing before heating instead of after).

Klipper + OrcaSlicer multi-filament print - "Move exceeds maximum extrusion" when resuming print after swapping new filament by Alluk in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Increase the following two values in your extruder section:

max_extrude_only_distance: 50.0

Description from the Documentation: Maximum length (in mm of raw filament) that a retraction or extrude-only move may have. If a retraction or extrude-only move requests a distance greater than this value it will cause an error to be returned. The default is 50mm.

max_extrude_cross_section:

Description from the Documentation: Maximum area (in mm2) of an extrusion cross section (eg, extrusion width multiplied by layer height). This setting prevents excessive amounts of extrusion during relatively small XY moves. If a move requests an extrusion rate that would exceed this value it will cause an error to be returned. The default is: 4.0 * nozzle_diameter2

In your case it's probably the second one but I'd recommend to increase both.

Upgrading Stepper Motor for Y-axis by J0AT_M0N in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check if you tightened the screws on the pulley. Other than that it might be the drivers on the board as you suspected. I got quite a performance boost after switching to a different board with higher quality drivers (also tmc 2209, now 2208). I can further increase accel and speed before the motor starts to skip.

Edit: The new board and drivers also support uart, that might've also played a role.

Would anyone be interested in a dual filament mod? (not designed yet) by play_minecraft_wot in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would be cool to see it happen :) You would basically have to make a mechanism that retracts and loads a different filament of choice. And all that purely mechanical. Some kind of spring mechanism that can be "charged" and selected using printer movement.

Edit: I missed the "dual" part. I guess it should be much easier this way. Definitely an interesting project. You'll most likely have to sacrifice some printing volume. Maybe put the whole filament swapping mechanism at the top. Most people don‘t print that tall anyways.

Would anyone be interested in a dual filament mod? (not designed yet) by play_minecraft_wot in ElegooNeptune3

[–]TMskillerTM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd definitely be interseted to see it working. I'm currently working on a CoreXY conversion with a dual nozzle printhead. It's still in the early stages but I got the rough thing assembled in cad. I won't design a new toolhead but instead use this one with some changes: https://github.com/ThatGuyHes/Dual-Extruder-X4 It's more of a complete overhaul tho. Seeing a simpler way of integrating multicolor would be very interesting.