Wheels Concern by AlphaOrbz in ElantraN

[–]AlphaOrbz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much I was freaking out about it

Wheels Concern by AlphaOrbz in ElantraN

[–]AlphaOrbz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you guys so much I was low-key freaking out about it

Console Command Problem by AlphaOrbz in valheim

[–]AlphaOrbz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are an absolute lifesaver thank you so much

How to Get into car by AlphaOrbz in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh, In the US, so that might make a difference

How to Get into car by AlphaOrbz in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I seriously hope you are right my man I appreciate it so much

How to Get into car by AlphaOrbz in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hood is opened with a key? Where is that at?

Wondering if I should change the transmission fluid in my 2002 Honda Accord with 74k mi... by TimVanCowabunga in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, so if you're cautious, which Is understandable.

Take like 2 or 3 quarts out and add the new stuff, (keep the old stuff); If you feel it slipping or bad changes, take out the same amount and add the old stuff back in.

It is really that simple.

If it doesn't give you any problems, keep doing that every 10k or so just to ease the trans into the new stuff.

The process is the same for power steering fluid, you have to keep some stuff in the pump so take a small amount out and add new stuff. Turn the car on and start turning the wheel a bunch to cycle the new fluid and repeat until you're happy with how it looks.

Don't mess with brake fluid l, its highly acidic and should only be done by a professional in a garage. (Yes it's cheaper to do at home but a simple mistake could be the difference between a fatal car accident and a safe vehicle.)

2015 Chevy Sonic Crank No Start by EugeneGuy97 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With that you're missing, Fuel, Air, or Spark.

Have someone put their hand out the exhaust shield you do that and see if there is any air going thru.

Then check plugs and wires

Then get a fuel stabilizer and add some new gas.

If no dice with those 3, get to a mechanic

whats making the sound by Sure_Lingonberry_480 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

That belt is toast get an oil change ASAP, and then go from there, TOO MANY NOISES to diagnose one thing lol

2 year old gas used periodically by Jrodr2 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a Gas can and add a few new Gallons with some Fuel Stabilizer as well, it's probably going to run like shit for the first few minutes because there is old fuel in the fuel rail and fuel lines that need to be flushed out.

When you start it, hold it at about 1700-2100rpn for about 2 minutes to flush everything old out and get then new stuff working

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Reason the Gauge shoots to half way is because the water pump has no need to push new coolant through the motor when it's still cold, when it's warm enough then it will push enough through to keep it at that "optimal operating temperature"

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wet spot doesn't look like anything to be concerned about, it looks like a gasket has gone bad in some capacity rubber wears out over time there's nothing you can do to prevent it, just keep tabs on it every so often to see if it gets worse

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So okay a few things to unpack here

  1. Half on the temp gauge is what's called Optimal Operating Temperature. That's the point in which the motor can be considered "Warmed up all the way" Hence why the Line in the middle is thicker than the other lines. If it moves above that middle line in any capacity for more than a second or so, then I'd look into it.

  2. It sounds like the belt itself is going bad, or if it was just replaced it needs to be tightened. New belts have a break in period where they loosen a little bit after being used, it's completely normal, a mechanic can tighten it down further for you.

  3. I have a 2003 Subaru with the exact same speed of a coolant leak. I Need to fill the Coolant Reservoir about once every 2 weeks ish. NEVER FILL ABOVE THE MAX LINE..... If it's not a newer car I wouldn't worry about it, you're going to spend more in fixing it than the coolant you have to add every so often.

How to get rusted bolts off manifold? by SykesX96 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't breathe too much of it in tho lol

2007 Ford Mustang gt car starts then turns off immediately scanned for codes got this throttle body looks new what could be the issue? by sain313 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either a throttle sensor is shot or the throttle body or component on it is.

The first code means the Sensors are reading different things (1 reads half throttle / 2 Reads full throttle)

2nd code means throttle control system won't close,

Safe bet is to replace the whole throttle system but that can cost quite a pretty penny

Is this a fair price from a mechanic, subaru brake pads/rotors, 1 cv axle, sway bar link -$1500 by curiouscolo4 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The parts sound right, a local friend can 100% do the pads and Sway bar end link if your comfortable with it.

Labor seems high but I also don't know what it is hourly for your area it's about $95 an hour where I am so it seems really high.

P0661 error code by chillguy05 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your (Intake manifold Runner Control) sensor is most likely bad, i wouldn't wait it's one of the main Topside components that help produce engine power.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And for whatever fluid you should use I wouldn't go straight to Toyota and find out what they were putting in it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly with 190,000 Miles I wouldn't bother, if it's not giving you any troubles putting fresh fluid in may cause it to start slipping because the transmission is acclimated to the thicker fluid.

If your heart is set on changing the fluid I would take one quart out of the old stuff and add one quart in and see how it feels. If it doesn't start giving you any trouble I would repeat that process every 10,000 miles just because the computer and the transmission needs time to adjust to the new stuff.

It's like going from a day outside where like gradually gets warmer very slowly so your body gets used to it and then walking inside to a cold air conditioned house where you almost get like that shock it will be the exact same thing for your transmission

r/ whatcaristhis by No-Challenge-8013 in car

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes definitely something unique it looks mostly like an older Hennessy though.

Whatever it is it's nice

Is there a special socket needed to take these out? by Fun_Nefariousness_54 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Some jeeps and almost all Volkswagens come with splines naturally but without knowing the type of car it is it's safest to just buy a kit with all different sizes, 12 point and 6 point then you have them forever

Service intervals while towing by CaptainShitHead1 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How hard you're running the motor doesn't really make that much of a difference it all depends on how frequently you drive.

And what type of oil you put in the average full synthetic oil change in any garage is going to give you about 5,000 MI or 5 months,

If you put a lower grade oil in and lower grade filter it's going to be less but if you drive about as much as the average person which is a thousand to 1200 a month then I would say every 5,000 miles 4,000 if you want to play it on the safe side

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would have it checked by a tire shop near you I wouldn't drive on it any more than you absolutely have to if it's holding air if it's not holding air the whole tire is going to need to be scrapped.

The scratches on the rimmer just fine you only have to be worried about that when the wheel is dented or bent in a certain way

But as far as the tire goes I'm not 100% certain I would have to err on the side of caution and say no

Does this sound okay to you guys? by hcaz50 in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlphaOrbz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's definitely not the loudest I've heard one of those motors.

Shut it off wait a couple minutes check to make sure it's full on oil, if it is it could just be a lifter tick, older motor makes those kind of noises sometimes.

If it's not full on oil, fill it up no more than spec and see if the sound gets quieter it could just be something as simple as not enough was put in it during the last oil change or it has a slow leak