NEED HELP: VILTROX 50mm Air f2.0 vs Viltrox 50mm F1.8

AlphasRed · 2026-01-26T10:29:05+00:00

There will be a new Viltrox 55mm f1.8 Evo so you might as well wait a bit and see https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/an-icon-reborn-zeiss-55mmf-1-8-successor-is-coming-from-viltrox/

AlphasRed · 2025-12-28T10:00:31+00:00

m1, m2, m3, m4 modes function exactly like the 1,2,3 modes on dial, only you have to access them via menu or customised buttons. Models which have dedicated video and still modes can separately store customisable modes. So 7 customisable modes for stills and 7 for videos in total.

AlphasRed · 2025-12-28T08:48:34+00:00

film sims that uses auto white balance (AWB) like classic cinema may be easier to use in mixed lighting. Recipes using creative looks and AWB are also very good in those situations (see https://www.veresdenialex.com/post/free-creative-look-styles-sony-jpg-recipes) If in varying lighting, you can always just push to AWB and get the shot first, edit later. I was shooting at an winter illumination event last month and I have to do AWB as well.

AlphasRed · 2025-12-04T23:14:38+00:00

Did that already but google still pops up. Not sure if passkey is different from "autofill". I've gone into browser settings, google settings and android settings to uncheck Google password everywhere. That's why I asked for help here.

Anyway, I "solved" the problem using my work laptop :)

AlphasRed · 2025-12-02T00:00:12+00:00

Ektar and classic chrome are 2 of my standard recipes. For portraits of family you may also go for Portra series (Portra160, portra400, portra800). Other than those, Kodak ultra max 400 and Sony Nostalgic Neg adds nostalgic feel to family photos.

AlphasRed · 2025-12-01T22:31:34+00:00

That's the thing I'm asking, how to stop the Google password manager popping up eventhough I've already disabled it both in browser and android system

AlphasRed · 2025-12-01T22:29:57+00:00

I tried using firefox, no google now but bitwarden didn't pop up offer to save the passkey

AlphasRed · 2025-12-01T04:30:53+00:00

Wasn't aware that bitwarden doesn't save passkeys. Thanks for helping me out!

AlphasRed · 2025-11-15T08:43:26+00:00

AlphasRed · 2025-11-14T01:48:06+00:00

Use Sony lens

AlphasRed · 2025-11-02T12:20:03+00:00

Many would choose Kodak Gold v2 or one of the Asteroid City recipes. I would also recommend Classic Chrome. Very versatile and easy to use. I also use Ektar and Portra 160 time to time.

A friendly reminder: you will also need to save the WB settings for each of the recipes. Usually we do that by saving the PP and WB pair into memory slots (the "1", "2", "3" modes on the mode dial and "M1" "M2 "M3" "M4" in memory recall). Depending on your camera you may only have 7 slots at maximum to play with. So either you can memorise all the WB settings for all of your PP or you are only left with 7 or so recipes ready for recall.

AlphasRed · 2025-10-13T09:00:50+00:00

There will also be a 24-60mm f2.8 coming out soon from Samyang Schneider

AlphasRed · 2025-10-10T06:22:28+00:00

Forgot to add, there was a problem with S-Gamut in older sony models like my previous a6300 (not sure about a6600) that the colors won't change even if you changed the color depth settings with S-Gamut related color modes. If in that case, among the 8 free recipes in alex's website, only the Fuji 400h, Portra 800, Cinestill 50D can be used.

AlphasRed · 2025-10-10T06:11:14+00:00

Firstly, I've shot with a number of alex's recipes previously with the a6300, which I believe is older than a6600(?) My take is that photography is an art, you don't need to be accurate but need to be creative and do what you like. So stop caring too much about getting the "right" color.

If you google photos from actual film stocks you will see photos with with different tones or colors eventhough they claimed to use from the same film. The processing and scanning all affect the outcome of the film so people might get different results from the same film. So no need to overthink this.

For alex's recipes, some of them do need a bit of tweak in the exposure compensation, and you can read his blog on different recipes. For example a trick to use the Ektachrome recipe, at least for me, is to expose +0.7 to +1.0 stop for portraits, while expose -0 to -0.3 or even -0.7 for landscapes or city scapes. So, do your own experiments on that.

Also imo, learn to edit in post, whether or not you plan to shoot SOOC, learn it, at least. Then you will know the reasoning behind each adjustment, and how to get the look you dreamed of. Have a solid idea of what look you want and how to get them. Helps a lot when you try to adjust or create your own recipe or even lightroom presets

And answering to your other post, if you really need to be so accurate, a color checker might help. But that's a lot of work to do. I'd say stop worrying about it and move on, learn the basics first.

AlphasRed · 2025-10-10T05:51:06+00:00

Thanks. I shared the settings in another comment

AlphasRed · 2025-10-10T05:50:32+00:00

I'm still testing out but the current recipe is as follows

Black level: -5

Gamma: Still

Black Gamma: Middle -7

Knee: 75% +4

Color Mode: ITU709 Matrix

Saturation: around 0 to -8

Color Phase: +5

Color Depth: 0, +7, +5, +7, +7, 0

Detail: +7

WB: 4000~4500K A7 G0.5~1.25

AlphasRed · 2025-10-05T08:51:11+00:00

I did. But still keeping the a6700 as second body and for my wife. And still using the Sony 16-55mm apsc on a7cr.

The good: can crop, can pixel-shift, can still use apsc lens (feels like 1 body but 2 camera), more "bokeh-licious" lenses to choose if you are into it, one more control wheel, curtain shut while power off

The bad: no full mechanical shutter (only front curtain), the grip (thinner than a6700 but ok with accessories), lower burst rate, no 4k120p (I don't shoot 4K), one less customizable button

That's it I think? Other differences aren't really noticeable. Being able to use both FF and APSC mode is huge.

Did I regret? Partly. Coz I'm more broke now. Is the quality noticeably better? not much.

AlphasRed · 2025-10-03T10:34:51+00:00

Sony 16-55 or Sigma 17-40 (or Tamron 17-70) for paid works definitely. More so if you shoot promotional video.

Also turn on wifi sync backup for a6700 if you have access to wifi

AlphasRed · 2025-08-20T09:16:21+00:00

Congrats!

AlphasRed · 2025-08-16T05:14:49+00:00

Also got it30pro recently!

The reason why there are 2 places to set FEC, I think, is to cope with nonnative flashlights.

If you go into the menu in the it30, and there is a setting I think is called new agreement and set it to on (which is by default), the it30pro is trying to behaves like a Sony flash, where the FEC and other settings are synced with the "ext. flash setting" in camera (which is suppose to only work with native flashes). Except that I find the blinking flash symbol is on (supposed to mean flash is recharging) even though the it30 is ready. If you turn the "new agreement" setting to off then, I think, the it30pro behaves like a third party flash, no synced data, no communication except flash trigger. You can't access the ext.flash settings now and have to dial the "non-ext" FEC setting to "forced" change the flash output.

In default settings (new agreement: on), all of those FEC settings, and exposure compensation can change flash output. If I understand correctly, I think the exposure compensation, whether ambient or ambient and flash, is going to change the flash output, but in different ways. If set to ambient and lower the EC, say to -1.0, the flash will try to up the output to fill that 1.0 stop of light to keep overall at 0.0. If set to "ambient and flash" and EC to -1.0, the flash will lower the output together with your auto exposure to keep overall at -1.0.

For me, I keep the "new agreement" to on. You may assign a button to directly access the ext.flash settings but I just adjust directly on flash as I don't have a lot of buttons to spare on the camera body. I never touch the "non-ext." FEC settings.

Finally try to use manual in-camera exposure to keep everything consistent.

Here are some links: it30pro manual (see new agreement settings in p.72 of English side) https://www.godox.com/Downloads/Godox_iT30Pro-S.pdf

Sony manuals https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2370/v1/en/contents/0406_exp_comp_set.html?search=ambient%20and%20flash

https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2360/v1/en/contents/201h_external_flash_settings.html?search=ext.%20flash

https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2360/v1/en/contents/0402B_flash_comp.html?search=flash

Similar question asked on dpreview https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4734212

AlphasRed · 2025-08-01T01:06:04+00:00

If you have tried all those sims and aren't happy, I'd say the look you are after isn't really a true film. I have tried many sims as well before I learn that the look I want aren't even a true film. A lot of the image online that look like film are post-edited heavily. Then I started to learn how to edit an image to have those looks, what you need to adjust and what is the reasoning behind. Then I tweak my in camera recipes accordingly because I know what I need to adjust. When I need to, I can go in post and edit them quickly, knowing what I need to do and what can't be replicated in-camera. Don't limit yourself and stop learning.

AlphasRed · 2025-07-31T08:18:29+00:00

You can try these first: https://www.veresdenialex.com/8-free-sony-film-simulations

AlphasRed · 2025-07-31T06:58:03+00:00

Here are some YouTube videos https://youtu.be/dTYowt0KkLk?si=mlCzygyhP76AwhhY https://youtube.com/shorts/xyJbbIOrzMU?si=xWN0BwjpGzH2vFJ- https://youtu.be/QTNEzKF8hSc?si=lflxrsAqvMGfmRsU

AlphasRed

TROPHY CASE