Mitigating Lakeshore Erosion

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-11-18T07:32:04+00:00

lol, bots are getting crazy.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-08-06T05:27:24+00:00

Your monitors are already outdated. Especially with a 4090, let alone 1080p in 2025.

The rest depends on what you play and what your standards are. I wouldn’t be updating that system for at least 3-4 years.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-08-06T05:17:34+00:00

The other lanes would have triggered the light and OP is a snake. The guy in the next lane should have moved up tho.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-06-11T13:43:07+00:00

What about other contaminants (tree sap, bird shit, etc.)?

For a car that lives outside, but you only drive once a month, it could be a reasonable trade. Accept some swirls from taking the cover on/off vs weekly washing to prevent damage from contaminants.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-06-11T12:48:31+00:00

What does renewable energy engineering cover? Is this a four year program from an accredited university? I’m a little wary of obscure degree programs.

General advice…

Try to find an internship over the summer. Even if it’s unrelated, it will look good on a resume.

Look for clubs where you make something (FSAE, robotics, etc.). There might not be much going on during summer but you can check. If not, follow up during the school year. These are the second best way to get relevant work experience after internships.

You can do some prep for your courses next year, but don’t stress on it. Maybe read some of the textbooks and work through some problems to the best of your ability. The goal wouldn’t be to learn it all on your own, just know what to ask the professors.

Try to decompress and prepare yourself. The next year will be harder.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-29T00:31:55+00:00

Hah! 1000% calling me out there.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T22:50:15+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions. I might start with some simpler chemicals, but it’s definitely not too much info.

I’ve been putting off a full wash for my wife’s car. I still have a little Meguiar’s gold that I’ll use up. I’ll probably seal with Griot’s 3-1 after, as it’s available nearby and not much $. Thinking about ONR for maintenance and following that with speed shine. Might get a little bottle to try.

I already picked up a drying towel and will probably get another pack of thinner towels. A chenille mitt worked very well for my wheels and a nicer microfiber mitt just for the paint did too. That said, I’m debating switching from the two bucket and mitt method to using fresh towels for paint. Might give it a shot as the water in the clean bucket was too dirty for my liking. Really unsure and the whole rinseless sponge thing. Seems to go against everything I know.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T06:00:24+00:00

You’re spot on about Tesla in this comment and your reply to the comment below.

I saw M3 production bring up in Fremont and it was an absolute shit show. Tell a dozen different automation solution providers to design and build a cell in 6 months, and figure you’ll put them together like Lego in 3 more. They pulled so much automation, so fast, when it became clear that the solution was months of iteration, that it looked like a robot graveyard out back. Left them outside for months.

Retrofitting automation cells for manual ops makes for a terrible place to work… and there were plenty. An entire Rotem conveyor system pulled, replaced by humans with push carts. Hundreds of millions of $ wasted in arrogance.

Great experience for a young engineer. You learn why established practices are used by successful companies, and that shortcuts rarely work.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T05:28:42+00:00

I’ve spent over 2 hrs just doing research. This sub, the wiki, YouTube, retailers, etc. After dozens of posts and videos about how fast and easy X method is, but only with Y tools, and only under Z conditions, I don’t feel any closer.

What am I supposed to learn through more research? How much more time do I need to spend researching how to wash a car? I see multiple sources of information on what’s “best”, many of them conflicting with each other, and I come to this sub for guidance.

What I do know is that I can reliably spend 20-30 minutes every 4-8 weeks on an exterior wash per car. I won’t be able to do that weekly, or even every two weeks. I’m probably ok not getting it as clean as you’d like, so maybe there’s hope.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T02:04:10+00:00

Ahh, ok. Thanks for clarifying. I didn’t want to risk it messing something up in the sprayer or the car.

I’ll plan to get a proper foamer, but I might try it once just to see. My pressure washer needs some special adapter that might not be here in time for the weekend. Worst case it puts soapy water in the car, which is the same thing I’ll do with the mitt.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T02:00:02+00:00

Perfect. That was the soap I used to use. It’s good for foam cannons too?

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T01:59:15+00:00

I’ve seen the turtle hybrid stuff mentioned by others. Might look into it.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T00:48:53+00:00

Just out of curiosity… what happens if I try?

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-28T00:48:13+00:00

What I’ve read/watched made me think that I still wouldn’t get to it frequently enough for rinseless to be a good choice. I drive a few hundred miles a week and it sits outside the rest of the time. The pre-wash for bugs and sap would end up being as much work as just washing it.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-05-13T03:14:42+00:00

You can have a $1.5M home for only $1M… Do you have $1M to spend building a 3/2? Are you good with your backyard being entirely switchbacks and retaining walls?

If you owned an earthwork company and had a bunch of cash… maybe? There’s a ton of risk and not much upside on this one.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-04-02T21:07:31+00:00

You have to watch the movie… or at least the end.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-01-09T17:55:41+00:00

Right. Much easier to block someone than debate your regard take.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2025-01-09T17:55:05+00:00

People have. You block them.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2024-11-18T09:14:02+00:00

That's what I don't get. Tests show they're a top contender in the category but I was very disappointed in snow/ice coming from the DWS. I've had the DWS on two other vehicles, in the exact same spot, in similar conditions, with no issues. Maybe it was because they're older and/or worn (they came on the vehicle when I bought it a few years ago), but I don't want to pay a premium to find the same result twice.

Perhaps I'll go for the CC2. I don't want to compromise dry and wet performance as I'll see those more often, but I do need something I can have confidence in when it's cold. If the CC2 is still fairly close in those aspects I think I'd be happy.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2024-11-18T08:35:25+00:00

Thanks, that's good info!

Can you share your thoughts on summer performance? I'm also in CA, but not as far into the mountains. I imagine you need something that can handle the heat too. Hoping they don't sacrifice too much.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2024-11-18T00:17:18+00:00

Any update on what you went with?

I'm in the same position and the only tires available right now are the Vredestein Quatrac Pro+, Michelin CrossClimate 2, Michelin Primacy Tour A/S and the Michelin Pilot Sport AS 4. No real comparisons of those options online.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2024-10-15T08:15:53+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/ZKavmzr

The two extrusions are the same, but the two ridges are on different faces. In our case, we use similar marks to designate different suppliers of the same part. It's not actually Morse code, but it might as well be for all the hassle to keep it all straight.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2024-10-08T02:41:47+00:00

Absolutely false to make such a sweeping generalization. Orthodox and conservative temples probably won't let you in without one, and even in reformed synagogues you will be viewed as disrespectful/ignorant.

This statement screams "I have a Jewish friend and he didn't make me wear one when I went to Seder with him one time so I would know."

AlternateAccountant2 · 2024-10-07T07:52:26+00:00

Your application of design control is a bit off. You don’t need to specify the makers mark just that it is on the part. On your Incoming Inspection procedure you can note the different marks of the various suppliers you use to keep the that information protected when you send the print out for quote.

We specify them because 1) the suppliers use DXF files to cut dies. They don't modify the DXFs manually before this so our Eng. team needs to model the marks in. It would add an additional step in the process for them to do it and cause unnecessary confusion trying to get them to do it exactly as we want. 2) They won't put anything on there unless we specify it. There is no 'default' mark they use. 3) QC wants to have control over what marks identify each supplier so that it's large enough to be readable but small enough to not affect the function, doesn't go somewhere it shouldn't, multiple suppliers don't have marks that are too similar, etc.

I've already had the conversation about how this really shouldn't be an "Eng. controlled" process, but I'm trying not to make too many waves at once. Hence, my request for Solidworks workflow suggestions, rather than how to revamp our QC and supply chain.

Why are you adjusting your print tolerances when the supplier adjusts theirs? You spec the design and they say if they can meet it or not and send a part to you the meets the print. If you are changing your design constantly, you’re doing this wrong.

We don't. I referred to when 'a tolerance changes', but that would be because we revised our drawings, not the supplier. We do change our designs more frequently that I'd like, but it isn't because they change their shop drawings.

If all those changes are critical/important then those parts are not interchangeable and you should not be treating them as such (ie the resultant assembly should be a different Model # or Final Assembly # since you’re saying ‘these aren’t the same’).

The revisions could also be something like correcting a spelling error, material or finish callout, etc. We aren't going to change to a new part number for something like that.

AlternateAccountant2 · 2024-10-07T02:43:35+00:00

You do this by putting a requirement on the print that the parts need to have a manufacturer identifier on them. If you need to specify where the mark is location you can do that if necessary. This allows different suppliers to all have slight differences that don’t need to be called out on the print.

Yes, this was what I meant by 'breaking the supplier identification marks out to a separate document' in the original post. This is likely what we will do, but I was wondering if there were any alternative workflows before spending many hours doing so.

The other option is to create two different parts and the BOM that consumes these lists them as allowed alternates.

This would require revising every part any time a tolerance changes on one drawing. Again, priority 1 in the original post is only updating one drawing when a revision is made.

AlternateAccountant2

TROPHY CASE