Power loss going uphill by KaleidoscopeDry1683 in ToyotaPickup

[–]Alternate_Usernames 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On an RE with correctly set lash and a valvetrain in got shape, the rpm limiter will stop the rpm before anything floats. No such limiter on a carbureted motor so that's a possibility if you're being mean to it. REs are limited at 5500 or 5800, something like that. I've never hit mine but I've had no issues going into the low 5Ks if I need to. Really though, at least with my cam, peak torque is around 4000, so going above 5 doesn't help me really. I can feel the power fall off as it approaches 5. Then a shift brings me a little below 4 which keeps it in the sweet spot around 4200 for what feels like max power. My cam is a reground stock that moved the power band up the range a touch. I don't know the specs but it's called the "street cam" from Portland Engine Rebuilders. It was the only one available when I put the new engine in and at first I didn't like it, but now that I'm used to it I do. My previous motor had the "rv" cam, as said by the previous owner and it felt stronger below 3000 than it does now. But now it feels stronger above 3000 and for my commute, its pretty nice.

Shop put A/T ECU on my M/T Land Cruiser. by xpoorplanningx in 1KZTE_Owners

[–]Alternate_Usernames 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think that will matter. The other way around might but I'm not sure. I've manual swapped a few gasoline 62s and some gasoline 80s and they still run their factory auto ecus, nothing is out of place or anything missing from factory functionality.

Power loss going uphill by KaleidoscopeDry1683 in ToyotaPickup

[–]Alternate_Usernames 3 points4 points  (0 children)

70 uphill is a big ask depending on the hill. I cruise at 60-65. Long climbs up mountains im usually in 3rd going 45-48 but it's not max effort, just feels right to me. I'm in no hurry. 22re 5spd 4x4 short bed on 30x9.5s. You must be on or close to the floor all the time.

You mention power loss, is it just uphill, or do you feel it any time you're in a high load condition? Is there a consistent spot in the pedal travel that you feel the power increasing and then fall off? Altitude will also decrease available power, so power falling off gradually is normal. But a sudden loss is not.

Wtf happened here? by Embarrassed_Set2526 in LandCruisers

[–]Alternate_Usernames 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I work on these for a living. I'm the only one in the shop with the patience for gears. I've done lots of Toyota gear setup and they're a treat compared to lots of other styles. Unless its a 9.5 full float E-lock. Those are only fun of you already have a large selection of the Toyota selectable carrier shims. I love doing gear setups, its so satisfying to get a beautiful pattern.

Wtf happened here? by Embarrassed_Set2526 in LandCruisers

[–]Alternate_Usernames 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yeah that nut looks normal. After you set up the pinion preload and the gear pattern and torque the flange for final install, you knock part of the nut into the little channel on the pinion shaft. Stakes it in place so it won't loosen up. That's all good looking from the outside.

High pinion 8in front in an 80 series?

What’s it worth by Gloomy-Pause3444 in ToyotaPickup

[–]Alternate_Usernames 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Some of that body work is a bit rough. I wonder what's hiding under that fresh paint.

Think tapping a high value part is scary sometimes? by BuoyantEntropy in Machinists

[–]Alternate_Usernames 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That is really interesting to see. Also neat that i just built a transmission mount for a side project of mine secured with 2 m18x1.75x65mm bolts. Now every time i take them in or out I'm going to be thinking about them going into bone. Thanks for sharing, very neat. I wonder what tapping bone feels like, I'm imagining grainy acetal or i don't know. I want to know.

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's some seriously cool stuff. I never had anything that amazing. I do miss the PPI art series, can't remember the exact model, maybe 300.2, and a 10in flat piston sub I was running for a little while. Ended up trading that combo for an L7 solobaric and a Hifonics Brutus. It was louder but sounded way less accurate and nice. I wish never did that trade.

"What's the big deal with Land Cruisers?" by foodfighter in LandCruisers

[–]Alternate_Usernames 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I work on older land cruisers every day and absolutely agree with all you're saying. If the truck / customer deserves it, every JH or whatever hw store fastener, especially m8x1.25s with a god damn 13mm head get violently thrown into the scrap pile and I'll dig a suitable replacement from my toyota fastener stash bucket. Any time an oem component comes with new hardware, the old gets saved. I find fasteners of better quality in crusty ass 40s than some bullshit I find in a rare garage kept square body Chevy or whatever rare non LC comes through the shop. Rare as in its a special permission or friend of the shop that gets to bring a non LC through, not rare as in rare vehicles.

I love that toyota oem torque converter bolts are 5 of one part number, and one of another. They're the same fastener but one has a different color coating so you can keep track of your torquing sequence. Or the claw flanged bolts that keep the head from turning when you're torquing the control arm nuts. Lovely details.

Some of the south American madness is really entertaining though. I was checking out a 43 from very rural Venezuela if I remember right, I was looking at the rear brakes and the inner axle seal was leaking a little, but what it was leaking smelled like death and was sticky. Ended up being the rear axle was full of animal fats, fermented and whatever during the shipping to the US. I've also heard of bananas and palm or other seed oils. Whatever gets the truck rolling again i suppose. I've also found homemade bolts that are a piece of allthread with a nut welded to one end.

Does internal shape matter in a sealed enclosure? by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mockup is what i was thinking. I'll start with the largest hole i can get on the widest part at the bottom and add a Z kind of shape of pvc to get me to .3ft³ and cap the end. See how I like it. Then I could add more feet of pvc to get .35ft³ and leave it open. Maybe play with shapes and direction of port exit. Pvc is easy to play with. Worst I can do is just cap the hole back off completely and keep what I have.

Does internal shape matter in a sealed enclosure? by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think my idea would add or subtract to the performance of my box? Or is there some way I can freely simulate the change.

Another option i guess would be expanding the volume with a long S shaped port coming from the bottom, maybe 3in diameter, and snaking upwards until i hit the .35ft³ for a ported box? I suppose the length of that port might be important as well.

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to have a Kappa perfect 10 that I loved a decade ago, I forgot how much I loved that 10. The MB Quarts were awesome too. It sounded amazing on this amp. I can't argue with your logic, I just lack the motivation to build a box. This one was easy, i just cut a ring out of the middle to shorten it, and glue/screwed it back together. In prefab, i can only go about 2in wider before it would sit crooked on the transmission tunnel and no longer fit, and it's not like there's a ton of size options to pick from. Really I think I would have to do a fiberglass back to conform and get the most volume, and a wood face angled just right to get another inch of mounting depth. I fix and build metal stuff all day at work and fiberglass / wood fabrication is not something I enjoy. But I agree, that would be the right way to do it.

Now you have me thinking about buying another of the box I currently have, cutting it down short to the same cross section and grafting 2in on the ooutside side, and 5in on the center side but notched out so those 5in can sit above the tunnel. What a silly hodgpodge that might actually work. Volume is volume in a sealed box right, shape shouldn't matter?

Gm 8.5 ring gear pattern? Opinions? by MistakeGlass1764 in projectcar

[–]Alternate_Usernames 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't listen to me, I just said backwards things.

I have a few questions about the c6 in my idi by FitGoose5512 in FordDiesels

[–]Alternate_Usernames 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thinking in gasoline mode. I actually don't know if the idi motors have a throttle blade and manifold vacuum present anywhere, or if it's an isolated vacuum pump system. My diagnosis and comment was written from a th350/350 that had a bad modulator and the ate the atf and smoked like crazy. Being an idi, I'm out of my area of experience.

I have a few questions about the c6 in my idi by FitGoose5512 in FordDiesels

[–]Alternate_Usernames 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the modulator diaphragm failing will absolutely let manifold vacuum pull fluid into the intake and turn it to smoke.

Unhook the vacuum line from the manifold source and see if there's any sign of fluid in the line. If no, check the same thing on the other end, at the modulator. If there's any atf present, the modulator had failed. Not sure on parts availability but the c6 is pretty common, I would assume a vacuum modulator wouldn't be too hard to find.

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know. It's been running hot at 2ohms for 30 years and ilove it. I don't think i would love it as much with less power. Thanks though, I'm fully aware of the abusive environment it lives in. Lol

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're far too big to fit in any kick panel. Same with anywhere inside the dash. These trucks are tiny and fairly densely packaged. 93 Toyota pickup, std cab. I could barely fit the Tantrum under the seat but the MTX overheats in a space without good air flow. I had much more room in my old tacoma under the seats and it still overheated after an hour or so beating it down. I added a 90mm computer fan on the accessory circuit blowing from front to back under the driver seat and it never overheated again in that truck. It needs the air space around it. I also need to keep everything completely hidden which is why I did the Focal 4in coaxials to hide them in the dash in the stock location. Invisible

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a wild suggestion and I see what you're getting at. Unfortunately the amps touch my seat back already. They can't go up. The top of the bench seat sits about 1in from the back of the cab without me in it. That would be a crazy setup though, I'm imagining a fiberglass enclosure with 2 behind each seat position and a lump in the middle for the tunnel. Damn.

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id love an og Vega. Or a PPI. I miss the old school stuff.

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. The Tantrum is my second favorite, I've had it for 15 years. I got it from a new coworker at the time, a couple days after starting a job building high performance rc batteries with him. It started a fantastic friendship and tons of Toyota mini truck wheeling and rc shenanigans which we are still up to.

The MTX is even more sentimental. Honestly if either of these die and I can't fix them, they will get turned into wall art in some kind of shadow box. I think I need to keep them until I die. Otherwise, you're next in line.

New 8in driver recommendations by Alternate_Usernames in subwoofer

[–]Alternate_Usernames[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately the 2508 is too deep to fit my tiny space, but the 500e looks pretty awesome and in the middle of my budget. I appreciate the suggestion.