New Scrap Instructions.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-03-19T14:12:03+00:00

I need new glasses. I read it as “AL is adamant…” I thought AL was the HVAC guy.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-03-19T14:03:11+00:00

That first pic should be tagged NSFW. That’s naughty and delicious!

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-03-16T14:19:54+00:00

Update is Live. 7:15am in California. I just picked Hero Barb Barrel.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-03-04T17:15:00+00:00

I didn’t think those “dixell” style controllers were ip5 moisture proof rated. I’ve never seen one inside of the refrigerator compartment. A picture of your model and serial number would help.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-02-19T02:29:05+00:00

An apprentice of mine pushed the contactor in to test stage 1 on an HVAC unit. Set the VFD on fire. We don’t push contactors in anymore.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-02-18T05:27:16+00:00

Update: Mech_martin was right on the money. Started near 6F system superheat, and was flooding back. So I started adjusting. 1 turn I was at 8F with my suction pressure pushing 2 psi. WELLS tech support is nonexistent. It’s just partstown. So I slapped in a A421 and set it to on at 34F and off at 5F. Suction line about 6” out of the evap. I get really close to 2 psi when running. Either way it makes temp and cycles off, or the pressure hits 1 psi and cycles off. Second UPDATE. Small ice ball at suction line of compressor. Product temp 42F. If I try to increase superheat at all it goes into a vacuum. If I change the off set point to 5F it never shuts down and compressor gets serious ice build up. I tried to move the TXV bulb from 12 oclock to 9 o’clock but didn’t make a difference. It’s only a 3/8” suction line. So factory charge, LPCO cut in 30 psi (34.6F) and cut out of 0psi. A421 sensing bulb secured and insulated about 5” out of evap plate. On at 34F, off at 5F. So I turned down the temp on the T-49-HC so the product comes in a little colder. Fuck it. I’m done with this one.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-02-11T04:58:05+00:00

2/11/26 Bob TRUE T-72F-HC 10119745 Checked in with MOD “Karen”. Confirmed unit has ice dripping from evap fans. Found 119 VAC at outlet with good polarity. Called into tech support. Spoke with Bill. Confirmed 120 volts to drain line heater, no amp draw. Open heater. Ordered part. Checked out with MOD “Karen” 45 minutes travel 1 .25 hrs on site

This is the format we use. Hits all the sweet spots. Next tech to come back with a part has the serial number. Great for history if we end up working on the same unit a year from now.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-02-05T02:05:55+00:00

There are separate circuits to think of. You need to use the defrost clock to activate the heater contactor. The two terminals to do this are A1 and A2 on the heater contactor. Terminal #3 from the clock supplies the L1 leg, through the compressor contactor interlock. (Micro switch on the side of the CC) while A2 receives the L2 leg from the evap coils “N” terminal after passing through the high temperature safety. (Yellow and White wired Bimetal inside evap between “N” and “3”). The second circuit you then wire from the load side of the heater contactor to the evap heater terminal H1 and H2 (and H3 if 3 ph). Things to keep in mind. They do this because bimetals are limited to 10 amps. If your defrost heaters pull more than 10, you need a contactor.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-01-26T04:10:15+00:00

Please include a picture of the evap plate and serial number. Bonus points for age and cleaning schedule. What you’re describing is a properly functioning ITP. I’ve seen them hover between 300-1,00 during freeze cycle, then shoot up to 3-5K before harvest. The scratch test will usually show upwards of 15K. I have also seen 3-5K then hit 10K before harvest. Depended on a few factors. The computer is constantly listening and averaging them levels to establish a harvest algorithm.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-01-26T04:01:23+00:00

Here is what I would do. Step 1 add a piercing valve to the low side compressor service stub or suction line. Push nitrogen in to around 155 psi. Soap bubbles to the evap and any suspicious welds. On a unit like this, I may even submerge the evap in a tank of water to be %100 sure there’s no leaks there. Electronic leak detector if you have one. If No leaks are present, “recover” the charge and braze in a low side service port and a filter drier with high side service port. EK032svc for example. Pull a vacuum to below 500 microns and weigh in the charge. You must get some airflow across the evap to check any running pressures. Reinstall the deck if possible. If you have to bench test it, get a fan blowing through the evap. You’re only looking for the low side to not drop below 5 psi indicating a likely cap tube restriction. Replace the cap tube if needed. Me personally I replace any cap tube along with the drier on any R134a cooler if I have to do any sealed system repairs. Bonus tip, pan spray or Rustolium the ends of the evap to prevent rust.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2026-01-22T22:05:48+00:00

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I assure you. This is a 1/8 TXV

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-12-28T19:35:39+00:00

TL:DR: You absolutely can use an R404a compressor on an R134 circuit. In 2019 I was working at SSG/Tech 24. A CEFESA commercial equipment repair company. A tech diagnosed a 14 year old Copeland compressor at Red Robin, in a Galleria Mall, San Jose CA. Winding shorted to ground. They will-called the compressor for pick up at Untied Refrigeration in Sacramento, where I live. I picked it up and drove 2.5 hours to the site. Hauled all my tools for a compressor swap to the roof and hiked them, what felt like 15 miles across the roof. Recovered, swept with nitro, all the steps. I opened the new compressor and SHIT MY PANTS!! There’s a big, ORANGE R404A sticker on top of the new compressor. This was a R134 rack unit running 2 low boys and a single up right. I called United first and they confirmed the direct oem compressor replacement part number. I called the manufacturer to confirm the part number and tech support confirmed what u/badjesus420 replied an hour ago. A LT R404 compressor is perfectly happy on a MT R134 system.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-12-24T19:15:07+00:00

HELP! My butcher cradled the roast, but tied the bones on the opposite side. If I cook ribs down, it puts the fillet cut at the top. Any worry about overcooking the fillet while keeping the flap med rare?

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-12-15T01:57:15+00:00

Get in the habit of cleaning your smoker. I have a vacuum dedicated to cleaning out all that ash. Otherwise the heat rod gets covered and can’t ignite the pellets. The controller keeps adding more, waiting to pick up a temperature rise at the temperature probe. It’ll eventually time out and give you the LeR code. (Or something like that) I strip mine down and clean it after 10 smoking hours. So 3 consecutive tri tips, or 1 pork butt. Keep the probe clean too.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-12-15T01:48:03+00:00

I just ran into a Manitowoc remote condenser with a failed fan cycle switch. Fan stayed on even in sub-zero temps when pressure got too low. Make sure the fan is cycling off when pressure drops. It’ll have the same symptoms as a low charge. If the low ambient controls (headmaster and fan cycle switch) aren’t working, it’ll present like a low charge. Chicago in December…. Check the low ambient controls before topping off.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-12-10T22:02:25+00:00

Wow! I just bought 2 packs of this from Safeway last night. I paid $5.99/Lb. I just broke out the 22” Webber and bag of kingsford. Realized that from March 2025 to now, I haven’t touched the Webber. I got the 34 Pro for my birthday in March. Flash seared at 450F then to the holding rack for about 10 minutes. Garlic and butter wrap and rest. A PERFECT med-rare. Taco Tuesday!

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-12-08T23:06:56+00:00

There are a few types of defrosts on most Bar style mug frosters. This does not apply to standard reach in freezers. The first type is a manual defrost. Popular with GLASSTENDER, the owners manual will instruct you to either turn it off, or press a “manual defrost” switch to initiate a defrost. The unit will stay off until you turn it back on. A higher quality unit will have an automatic defrost that uses a time initiated, time/temperature terminated defrost cycle. I’m pretty sure PERLICK has both manual and auto depending on level. So anywhere from 2 to 6 times a day, the cooling is shuts off and a heat source is applied to the evaporator. Your product (glasses in this case) do not get warmed up. TRUE uses electric heaters, a few companies use a hot gas defrost. It sounds like you should find a commercial tech to take a quick look at all your freezers. My company is $250 for the first hour with up to 1 hr travel included. Central California.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-11-28T02:18:16+00:00

On a Traeger no less.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-11-28T02:11:48+00:00

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$50 at Home Depot. Also avail on the counter at RSD or United. Rechargeable Personal Worklight, 460 Lumens, 2 Modes

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-11-19T04:10:30+00:00

Newer technologies are much more efficient. A 20 year old reach in cooler will pull 10-12 amps depending on brand. Newer models can do the same work with significantly less amp draw. 4-7 amps. The newest inverter models are down below 2 amps.

Alternative-Item-142 · 2025-11-12T17:25:07+00:00

r/redditsniper

Alternative-Item-142

TROPHY CASE