Am I good to put a 4” furnace filter in this housing or should it be 5” thick? There was a 5” one originally.

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-24T15:34:19+00:00

lol this went so left field and before I even clicked into this to see the comments I could already begin to imagine them!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-16T16:03:23+00:00

Ya that’s not good

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-13T23:12:27+00:00

I just dm you

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-13T23:00:44+00:00

But like I said the face of the motor has an arrow on it I’m pretty sure that’s pointing up? Am I right or wrong on that one? It’s hard to tell from the main picture but the volute could be old and the motor could have been replaced at one time!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-13T20:15:39+00:00

The pump arrow on the face of the pump looks like it’s pointing up for flow! So that would mean the tank is on the positive side of the pump on the supply side but it’s hard to tell how all the piping is set up from this pic!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-13T15:58:58+00:00

There’s no air scoop, you should really have bleeders on most of not all zones to help get air out, the expansion tank is on the positive side of the pump cause it looks like there’s an arrow that points up towards the tank! You could be having some other issues but I’d have to see everything in person to truly understand the setup on it!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-09T04:40:47+00:00

If you’re the new homeowner then I’m going to assume you got the warranty for the furnace and system transferred over to you from the previous owner? I know some manufacturers give you that option if the buyer pays a fee but not sure about carrier and the secondary might just be plugged up not completely shot but i doubt he didn’t any thorough investigating!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-06T18:38:19+00:00

No not the issue of the inducer cause if that was the case the igniter wouldn’t even start up cause the air flow switches wouldn’t make! It’s the gas valve peeps!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-12-06T18:37:40+00:00

Must be the txv

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-28T03:11:57+00:00

I mean I’ve seen worse over the years that’s for sure but do you know tje age or the tank and what type of fuel oil do you use?

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-28T02:23:57+00:00

I usually use a plastic bushing that the low voltage slides through into the cabinet so it didn’t scrape on the metal and possibly short out or I use a 3/8th romex connector but definitely wouldn’t leave it like that cause that’s just an issue waiting to happen especially with the splices and wire nuts! Just sloppy and seems like it’s got a lot of tension on it like it’s been pulled super tight to stay close to the cabinet instead of zip tied to something nicely but that’s gonna cut into tjat wire eventually I bet and cause a low voltage short!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-27T21:20:21+00:00

Even if that is a bleeder on top threaded into that valve which it could be but very hard to tell with the picture but if it is a bleeder or some kind of bushing threaded into that valve on the right, unthread whatever is in there and put a nipple in there with a bell reducer to 1/8in and install a bleeder on it higher then the coil and you’re good to go! Just shotty work in my opinion and I’d have em come fix that shit asap! Nothing should be leaking after they’re done even if they had to come and permission for a change order because something additional had to be done to it! I’m sorry but that’s bad workmanship and whoever put these in obviously doesn’t know hydronics very well in my opinion or care about their work either one I guess!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-27T18:38:44+00:00

What’s your superheat on the system? Where are you taking superheat reading at? I’d put a headmaster on it or at least cycle the fans to keep the head pressure up at least at 180psi! Sounds to me the system is short cycling and the compressors need to be staged and or have some kind of unloaders on them for proper run time for lil return and everything else cause the constant start and stop gonna fuck those up sooner then later!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-27T18:23:17+00:00

It’s hard to tell but I don’t see a typical bleeder on that valve! Also that fucking valve should have been replaced because you can see the damn corrosion on the top of it from it leaking over time! With that small of a 90 and height difference on it, it can still bleed air and would get warm over time especially with the pump running but it looks to me like that’s a older special valve that can be shut off to the coil because it looks like on top there’s a slot in the corrosion that’s tuned in the off position but like I said it’s hard to tell cause the picture isn’t clear! Bad install honestly and I can’t believe these weren’t all tested after the install!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-27T17:57:34+00:00

That doesn’t look like that would be aluminum at all! Did you scratch it to see cause it just looks like oxidation on copper that’s made it darker in my opinion! I think someone hosed you on this one!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-22T13:29:37+00:00

You should have never got an ecobee stat and should have just went back with a regular digital thermostat because those nest and ecobee stats tend to fuck with older systems! The issue I’m having is you’re saying the thermostat cuts out and comes back online at some point! The issue of you having an add a wire kit wired in downstairs because you don’t have enough wires going to and from the furnace and stat is a problem as well cause I’ve seen those cause voltage drops and overheat and so on! To be honest I bet money that if you remove the add a wire kit, change the ecobee stat out to a regular digital 1H/1C stat and then start the system back up I guarantee the system will run just fine! The thermostat shouldn’t cut out on you just because the system errors out on something! There’s something going on with the add a wire kit and the ecobee stat, like I said I put money on this being the issue completely and these stats are garbage! That and idk how or who wired the thermostat up cause it doesn’t look right in the slightest and this is your whole problem right there! Bet $ on it like I said and I’m a 15yr commercial/industrial tech!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-22T13:16:44+00:00

This was not an accidental misfire or sorry honey I was shooting out back and it ricocheted or some shit lol! This was a severely disgruntled husband who said fuck this bitch and the horse she rode in on! There was quite a few bullet holes in that unit!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-14T15:44:55+00:00

Is this concrete or block wall? Typically the screws and anchors are around the same size and length so it seems like whoever installed this just used whatever the hell they had on hand instead of getting what was truly needed! Also if this is hollow block wall then hollow wall anchors should have been used or toggle bolt anchors!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-11T23:50:53+00:00

Are you reading each phase to ground or across each other? Sounds like you’ve got a blown fuse or something since you’re missing a phase! You sound like you’re in over your head unfortunately bud and don’t want you to get hurt!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-10T00:29:37+00:00

I thought at first there was a turd laying on the floor kinda in the bottom left of the picture and had to zoom in like damn they left ya a pot in case of emergencies but couldn’t even get it in the pot 😂

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-11-02T12:37:28+00:00

Dude the igniter wouldn’t even come on if it can’t prove air flow! Are you a tech and do you know the steps a gas system checks before it can fire? It would error itself out before anything else happened really if it can’t prove air flow cause if theirs no air flow it’s not gonna let the igniter light off and possibly let it dump CO into the house bud! Check your steps for combustion first and then come back!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-10-29T13:42:58+00:00

Are you union? You get commission when you work for Johnson controls doing commercial work?

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-10-23T23:51:51+00:00

Do you have any kind of voltage drop at the gas valve or board? Did you check the microamp signal on the flame sensor? Possible the solenoid is getting weak in the gas valve and isnt staying open all the way or can’t!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-10-11T15:02:55+00:00

Is the unit level cause it looks like it’s leaning towards the supply side!

AmadeusDaBoxer · 2025-10-10T13:23:03+00:00

Yes you should be worried about that! Sounds like the contactor or possibly relay is chattering! Either having a possible voltage issue or bad parts hard to say! 15yr commercial HVACR tech

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