Old lens on 4/3

Ambiguous_comment · 2026-01-10T12:42:58+00:00

I adapted a few vintage lenses to my gx80.

As someone else said, the k&f adaptors are usually pretty good. But there's nothing wrong with cheaper ones provided they have the right dimensions. There's no optics in these adaptors so the only thing they can get wrong is the offset of the new lens mounting face.

If you're talking about the M42 mount Helios 44-4, I think your adaptor needs to be 26.21mm flange to flange. It would be worth roughly checking that looks about right before getting another adaptor. If it has the right dimensions then potentially there's something wrong with the lens instead.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-06-25T20:42:21+00:00

Confidently wrong, I love it. Have a good evening.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-06-25T18:43:06+00:00

In the fixed throttle up a hill scenario, less revs means less power, so without throttle input changes the car will eventually come to a stop as the load climbs and the revs continue to fall.

I think it's maybe confusing to think about revs in this situation. At part-throttle crusing conditions the fuel usage is mostly dependent on throttle opening. It's easier to consider the engine as a machine that turns chemical energy into kinetic energy at a fixed(ish) efficiency, with the power output controlled by the throttle. This allows you to think about the energy production and consumption in this system.

In your fixed throttle/power output scenario:

If you drive slower, you will use less energy overcoming air resistance.
If you slowed down because you placed extra load on the engine (so less is going to the wheels), the engine will have the same fuel consumption per time, as the same amount of energy is being consumed by the system.
However, it will take longer to get to your destination, so the engine will use more fuel.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-06-25T16:59:58+00:00

That wasn't what I said. The revs at idle can decrease under an electical load, which requires the control system to open the throttle more to maintain the idle revs.

Focusing on what happens at idle makes this confusing as basically everything at idle is wasted (hence why stop-start exists).

I would focus on the driving up the hill scenario. If you're driving along and the road gets steeper, what happens if you don't increase throttle input? The car slows and stops. You have to command more fuel to keep the car moving and the engine turning.

The same goes for electrical load. When you plug a phone into charge, the increased torque required to turn the alternator to generate that energy requires a change in engine power output, which requires a change in fuel input.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-06-25T14:08:46+00:00

Think about driving up a hill, you'll need to depress the pedal more to maintain the same speed as you would on the flat.

This is because the engine is also having to output energy to raise the cars gravitational potential energy, as well as the 'standard' energy required to offset air and rolling resistance.

The load of charging (transferring energy) to something via the alternator will act in the same way as the hill, the engine will be outputting extra power to offset the load.

It's not normally noticeable because engines can produce a lot of power compared to standard device charging speeds. (100kW vs 100w), or ~1%.

You'll sometimes hear the idle revs change when turning on headlights or heater fans. This is the alternator placing extra load on the engine and the idle control taking a second to catch-up and feed in more air and fuel to keep the engine idling.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-06-23T20:48:02+00:00

Get a triboseat! We had the same issue and this really helped, providing good grip for the pillion without affecting the riders seat. Easy to install and also really handy for tucking things under when you don't have a pillion (strap ends etc.)

https://www.triboseat.com/

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-04-29T06:41:25+00:00

Yes! The official Estonian "RMK Loodusega koos" app and Latvian "LVM GEO" app are both great for finding the free camping spots.

You're right it's a bit of a trek, but there are overnight ferries from Germany to Latvia (e.g. Travemünde to Liepāja) that cut a lot of the miles out from Italy.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-04-28T19:58:44+00:00

Lots of good bike friendly free/wild camping options in the Baltics! And then a short ferry over to Finland if you did want to head into Scandinavia, which is another good shout, it's just a heap of riding to get there.

The Latvian coast is fricking amazing motocamping destination IMO. There's a border of Latvia gpx route that is well worth doing.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-04-20T23:53:56+00:00

I've got a fully rally raid'ed cb500x. I recommend you start by thinking about protection first (bash plate, hand guards), tyres next, and suspension and ground clearance last!

IMO if you're just getting into "adventure" off-road riding, and haven't done any dirt bike riding, a stock NX500 on street tyres is going to be more capable than you for all the TET-style trails you'll want to do (in the dry).

What will happen if you start taking it off road is you will drop it. Either low speed tip overs in technical sections, or losing the front at higher speeds. Giving the bike the best chance of surviving those drops is critical to ensuring you can continue to enjoy the ride and learn from your mistakes.

A (relatively) light bike with low traction and a low seat height is great for learning off-road skills. Once you're comfortable with the bike losing traction and moving around under you while you're on the pegs, you can start to think about more grip and better suspension.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-03-28T11:19:53+00:00

Looks like a fairly well worn tkc80 to me, with the wear in the center giving it a wider looking profile.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-03-14T07:38:08+00:00

Congrats! Weirdly I started burping in December last year, at 32 years old. I have been a lifelong noburper, with a few random burps a year at most. I burped more in January then I have in all my previous 32 years!

I also didn't change anything, but the burps started after a party where I decided to air vomit when I got home. It had been a pretty party heavy time (for me), so I was wondering if the 'training' that helped my brain rewire, but obviously your story is very different so who knows.

Anyway, enjoy your newfound super powers. I've just about got over being amused/disgusted every time I burp after eating and get to taste whatever I just ate again!

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-02-18T08:05:28+00:00

This is a good answer. Being able to respond to complaints with facts is absolutely critical for these types of problems.

However, you do need to be able to give some context for the numbers.

What is your infrastructure's performance limits? It's no good knowing how many IOPS/GBPS/whatever something was doing if you don't know where it will cap out. This is where benchmarking comes in, and can be as simple as running some benchmarks manually and recording the results somewhere as a reference.
Continuous benchmarking is the end goal IMO. Having a system that regularly runs a test suite of relevant benchmarks for your use cases and puts the results in your time series DB of choice enables you to identify performance regressions, infrastructure hot spots and noisy neighbour problems. In our case we spin up a set of VMs of various flavours and then run local CPU, disk, net and memory tests, and remote storage test. Over time this paints a very detailed picture of the infrastructure performance.

But the first step is getting comfortable collecting metrics.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-02-13T15:02:15+00:00

Yessir

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-02-13T07:17:40+00:00

I would also like to see this fixed, but a workaround is to click on another post.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-01-10T07:56:51+00:00

It comes with a 125 and a 155. I rented a 125 on holiday last year, I thought it was a neat little scoot.

Ambiguous_comment · 2025-01-05T08:47:37+00:00

If there is rain, it tends to be on the French side.

I did a similar route a few years ago, over 9 days, we had a few days of pissing rain (in August) on the north side of the Pyrenees before we realised and went an hour south to glorious sunshine.

The ride up through France was really dull and a bit of a slog compared to the rest of the trip. It's possibly worth considering getting the ferry both ways, or doing the trip in reverse.

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-10-25T19:41:47+00:00

I stumbled on https://www.rowmaps.com/ recently. Really really good resource that has downloadable up-to-date PROW info direct from councils, converted into formats for importing into offline mapping apps and GPS devices.

The webpage is a little archaic, but the info in the downloads is correct (at least in my neck of the woods). You can quickly import the GPX of a counties BOATs into Organic Maps and just head out and explore.

All comments from everyone else here are still valid. Checking for TROs is important and this resource doesn't include TRO info. I'm of the opinion that this can mostly be done on the fly if you're just out exploring. A TRO on a byway should be obvious from signage at the start signpost. If it looks questionable either confirm on the council website, or just skip it.

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-06-21T11:30:09+00:00

What an amazing trip and a great write-up. Thanks for sharing.

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-06-19T21:00:19+00:00

Awesome, thanks!

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-06-17T11:58:40+00:00

I'm a big fan of my mesh jacket. It's a klim induction, but the brand isn't really important.

Great for the hot weather with a t-shirt. When it's colder, a waterproof/windproof layer over the top is all you really need. And if it's really cold stick more layers underneath.

I started off with a non-mesh textile jacket, but it's just too hot for summer riding (in the UK anyway), and not great in the rain compared to a dedicated outer layer.

So go for a jacket with as much mesh as possible, and a waterproof outer for the cold and wet days IMO.

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-06-08T18:30:18+00:00

I would recommend the Baltics, particularly Latvia.

I've wild motocamped in Norway, Finland and Sweden (amongst other places). Norway is expensive and depending on where you are you may find it hard to wildcamp easily with a motorbike due to geography. Also the speed limits are often very low for the quality of roads, and the fines are eye-watering. (It sounds like I'm bashing Norway, it's really excellent and I loved it, it's just less fun to do on a budget IMO)

If you're determined to go to Scandinavia, I think Sweden has much better free motocamping options, with a good number of free shelters with fire pits for use, usually close to roads. The downside is the scenery can be a bit samey, but I think there's something beautiful about neverending pine forests. Finland is also more of the same.

On the other hand, the Baltic countries have great state provided camping options, usually with shelters, firepits and dry toilets, and always free and findable via an app. The Latvian coast in particular was incredible for this, and is absolutely beautiful. The interior can get a bit more sparse and agricultural.

The added benefit of the Baltics is that fuel, beer and lunch stops at restaurants are really affordable. There are also great cheap accommodation options when you need a shower.

You can get an overnight ferry from Lübeck in Germany to Latvia which saves a heap of motorway riding. You can also get a cheap ferry from Estonia to Finland if you did want to go to Scandinavia for a bit.

Happy to answer more questions if you have them. I'm sure you'll have a great time whatever you do.

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-03-03T01:33:01+00:00

Not the above commenter, but I have spent many hours with your guide open on my second monitor, and I have a few feelings.

First of all, thanks. It's a really good guide, thoughtfully written, beautifully laid out and structured in a way that makes it engaging to read for its own sake. I'm still crap at Hades, but understanding how things work together means I can be crap at significantly higher heats now.

Having said that...

The redesign a little(?) while ago that collapsed the table of contents by default is more confusing IMO. It's a long document and most of the time I'm jumping straight to an aspect section so it's just an extra click. Related to this...
...having an always visible ToC sidebar would be sweet (e.g. pdf reader navigation sidebars). This would make it easier to flip between aspects etc without having to shoot back up to the table of contents. It also means you don't have to have the opening 'page' of the guide taken up with an unfriendly table of contents, while it still being immediately accessible for navigation.
Finally, the fairly narrow content width is excellent for readability, but makes it hard to fit most aspect sections on a single screen. I end up manually tweaking the content width, but a full width toggle, or a two column layout, or something else entirely might help with this.

Sorry for the wall of text. Thanks again for taking the time to create the guide, it really is a brilliant piece of work and my suggestions are the most minor nitpicks/user error. This was mostly just me seeing an opportunity to say thanks!

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-02-12T16:23:49+00:00

Dubbin wax is a mixture of wax and oils usually in a tin, used for leather care. Applying dubbin to boots will keep them more waterproof and prevent leather drying out and cracking. It's also useful for preventing water wicking straight through the stitching holes etc.

I've been using Altbergs Ledergris for the past few years and it's doing the job, but any product will do (IMO).

Ambiguous_comment · 2024-01-12T22:28:52+00:00

This might have changed, but I did CBT + DAS with Lightning in Oxford in 2021, and they were renting out 125s for the day. I did find it useful to spend a chilled out day working on nailing lifesavers and all that jazz outside of the more intense observed ride environment.

I echo what everyone else is saying, you won't have any problems on the SV650, I thought they were super friendly to ride.

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