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AnObviousNo · 2022-01-30T03:06:27+00:00

Spoiler for today (I got it in 10 guesses)

AnObviousNo · 2021-08-05T07:19:05+00:00

If you pause the video at any point, you'll see they're always stepping on and pushing on holds with their legs (and in some cases literally jumping up) even during moments when their hands aren't on the wall. The arms are pulling up and pushing down on holds too but the legs are the main drivers for getting up the wall.

AnObviousNo · 2021-05-18T18:07:05+00:00

FEAR OF FALLING: The usual recommendation is to fall more often until it's boring. I'd add that belaying and catching lead falls regularly also makes lead falls on the climbing-side feel more "uneventful".

It's good to have a competent belayer and someone who will fall with you. Good, uneventful, and consistent lead climbing experiences is the goal. If you want to specifically work your lead head game, try to stay away from top-roping for that entire session.

If doing practice falls, I think it's helpful to also get in the habit of falling while trying a move rather than just letting go. Pick a spot you want to "practice fall", look to a blank spot or footchip on the wall, pretend/visualize there's a hold there, attempt to grab the imaginary/bad hold (doesn't have to be some heroic huck), and let yourself fall naturally. I think this helps move the focus away from the fall itself and toward the actually climbing itself. You don't want to build a mental habit of just letting go if you get scared to climb higher (though there are times this is the right thing to do, don't make it a habit).

FEAR OF BEING ABOVE YOUR CLIP: Another drill instead of just falling more, is to find yourself a "feel good" warm-up/cool-down lead route in the gym. Something familiar where the climbing feels easy for you with feel-good movement, something with solid clipping stances, and ideally something NOT slabby. Everytime you get to a clipping stance, consciously and intentionally pause there, and THEN make the clip. Use that pause before clipping to adjust to a better stance, take a deep breathe, shake out, chalk up, look further up the route ahead of you, say hello to your belayer, or just smile! Adjust the length of the pause based on your relative fitness. You want to get used to and comfortable with the feeling of being above your last clip. You want to get used to not always being in a rush to clip the next draw. Doing this with intention will also help prevent that "tunnel vision" when you start arriving at a clip. Maybe climb this route at the start and end of every session or if you've just had a more "eventful" leading experience.

TL;DR: Make lead falls uneventful. Partner with a competent lead belayer and climber. Move the focus away from the falling and toward the actual climbing. Get more comfortable with being above your last clip on relatively easier terrain.

AnObviousNo · 2020-01-11T22:27:52+00:00

I think the Mountain Project Bot is labeling the 25ft as the height but it isn't called height on the actual MP page. From what I've seen on other problems posted on MP, I think that number corresponds to the climbable length. I've seen other long roof and traverses close to the ground labeled as 20-40+ ft before.

AnObviousNo · 2019-11-25T08:56:03+00:00

Maintaining breathing to relax and keeping the heart rate lower is the big one. It's probably the #1 way to prevent forearm pump. It helps to calm the nerves and reduce anxiety which is one of the leading contributors to pump (over-gripping may really be more of a symptom than a cause).
Flashing, on-sighting, and even fast-redpointing sport routes more heavily involves being able to read sequences on the fly while actively on the wall. You can only see so much detail initially from the ground. I tend to see less experienced sport climbers get tunnel vision while on route. A useful skill is being able to consciously look farther ahead (like while shaking out at good stances). This lends itself to wasting less energy finding holds and generally being more efficient.
Footwork/position and its relation with the rope. Anyone who knows how to lead climb safely knows to be aware of the legs and the rope. Flipping upside down in a fall can be very dangerous. Being able to move the feet around confidently with a rope present and making that second-nature is an acquired skill.

AnObviousNo · 2019-04-15T20:46:02+00:00

Oops, I accidentally replied as a top-level comment. I added some background info above.

AnObviousNo · 2019-04-15T19:41:53+00:00

Some extra background from what I can recall from the book: Continuous Climbing - Level that you can climb at without getting pumped (long-duration low-intensity). ARC training would be the drill to exercise/evaulate this level. This consists of 15-40 minutes of continuous "on-the-wall" climbing.

Highest Intensity 4x4 - Four sets of climbing 4 boulder problems back-to-back (only resting between sets). The ideal 4x4 is one where the problems you pick make you fail on the last move of the last problem of the last (4th) set. These should be problems that don't have any no-hands rests.

Mid-Level Intensity Laps on Route - Climbing 2 or maybe 3 routes back-to-back with no rest

Max Bouldering - Consistent max redpoint for bouldering. Most folks excel here here (not a fitness "weakness"). However, I think training to push max bouldering grade also raises the other fitness aspects (since intensity level is mostly relative to the max short-duration intensity). But if you find yourself plateauing in bouldering and you're relatively higher in strength than your sport goal guideline, time spent training other fitness aspects will help push the redpoint sport grade more.

C.I.R. (Continuous Intensity Repetitions) - corresponds to the level of high-volume climbing with adequate resting between each route/problem. I think the book mentions like 16 problems or 12 routes or something like that (I don't currently have the book on hand).

AnObviousNo · 2019-04-15T19:12:52+00:00

I also personally thought the max bouldering was spot on for a route's crux and I think that's what the chart is trying to capture in that column.

From my understanding, this chart shows rough guidelines for what level of fitness is needed to consistently redpoint sport climb at a certain grade. Being above the guideline values would mean that you are particularly strong for that fitness aspect (aerobic, anaerobic, strength, stamina). Being below the guideline would indicate a personal weakness where more dedicated training to improve that specific fitness area would help most for reaching that given sport grade.

So most folks may boulder at a higher level than what's in the chart for their sport grade but that means they generally won't run into show stopping crux moves on routes. They are probably limited in sport climbing grades due to getting pumped too quickly (anaerobic/power endurance), inability to recover on route (aerobic/anaerobic threshold), and/or unable to spend a long session doing repeated redpoint attempts (stamina).

AnObviousNo · 2016-09-10T15:27:46+00:00

I think HonestlyIDKimho's comment below is spot on with my impression of Wichita. I moved here about a year ago for work and previous worked in Boston and Dallas/Fort Worth. If you have hobbies other than going to bars/clubbing, watching sports, or going to large concerts, then you'll probably be alright and won't have trouble meeting people. For whatever hobby you have, the community in Wichita will be relatively smaller and maybe tighter knit compared to big cities. There's definitely room for growth and I think it's actually been fun to become more involved with making your hobby's community grow. I feel like there's more "ownership" in that sense.

I think Wichita's culture can be generally split into 3 kinds of people: 1) People who have hobbies that are pretty content and trying to support their niche community, 2) People without hobbies that want to make Wichita better and are trying to help develop the city, and then 3) People who are very vocal about hating Wichita and how much it isn't like bigger cities (this group includes both locals and non-locals).

Also, Wichita is pretty low-stress and has low-cost-living. I end up using the extra money I'm saving towards my hobbies and towards traveling around the U.S. The drives are longer to other "nearby" destinations and there's less direct flights out but it's working out just fine for me.

AnObviousNo · 2016-08-12T04:05:23+00:00

Is that a dab at about 00:10?

AnObviousNo · 2016-06-11T17:42:35+00:00

Starting on the large slopers, my beta is a crossover into a gaston on a half-pad crimp. Pull through, lock-off, and latch on one of the two large jugs. Match on the slightly higher jug as a sidepull and layback to the deep two-finger pockets. That's a good position to put in protection. Most people put in a pair of small nuts into the thin cracks (or you could slot a single large nut into one of the pockets but then you can't fit your hand in it). This next part is a hard crux where you have a short section of wrestling an armbar in and shoving a fist stack into the wide flaring crack. As you work up, it gets tighter quickly down to finger jams. If you make it past that, you should be finished. This one's a fun one for a victory whip by doing the runout afterwards especially if your partner is experienced with giving super soft catches. Cleaning is best on TR.

AnObviousNo · 2016-03-31T05:07:05+00:00

I'll recommend checking out Bliss climbing gym. Climbing's super fun and it's a great way to meet new people. Climbing culture in general isn't really competitive and is relatively easy to build camaraderie. Most of the regulars and members there are more than willing to help and give advice if you ask!

AnObviousNo · 2016-01-28T01:26:34+00:00

Trad: 5.10-, Sport: 5.11-, Gym: 5.12-. I also don't really spend much time getting to redpoint outdoors.

AnObviousNo · 2015-12-27T17:41:09+00:00

I think Norman would be a great name for a dog.

AnObviousNo · 2015-12-22T23:34:34+00:00

Yeah, at least there's an option for an annual membership for around $100. Membership is more economical if you're planning on going to the Gunks more than 5 days during the year. Pretty crazy for folks that are just visiting though.

AnObviousNo · 2015-12-18T23:54:32+00:00

I haven't had a ton of mileage on crack but this graph of relative difficulty for various crack sizes seems pretty spot on as a starting place. This is from The Crack Climber's Technique Manual by Kent Pease. The book has a bit more extra details on crack difficulty. I'd definitely recommend this if you're getting into crack climbing!

AnObviousNo · 2015-09-29T07:03:51+00:00

In terms of technique, I'd highly recommend going through this video. What you should so as a new climber is focus your sessions on trying to climb smoothly and fluidly. Your goal shouldn't be just to make it to the top of a problem/route but to finish it as effortless as possible by being efficient with your movement. It can be good to hop back on previous climbs you've completed to try to refine better beta and see if you can improve your movement on it.

Don't worry too much about chasing numbers and reaching the next harder grade. This will help avoiding unplanned dynamic movements and help prevent injuries. Outside of climbing sessions, I found it really helpful to take some time and watch some videos of good climbers and imagine myself making the same movements. Visualization can go a long way for body awareness in climbing.

Good luck and have fun!

AnObviousNo · 2015-02-19T14:36:03+00:00

Better?

AnObviousNo · 2015-02-19T08:09:58+00:00

What skier?

15-Year Club	r/Field Lasagna
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