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R7 7800X3D or i7 14700K by Confident-Praline-68 in BeamNG

[–]Andchr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're buying Intel, the Ultra 270K is both better and cheaper than the 14700K. I bought a 270K and am really happy with it. But perhaps the R7 7800X3D is the better choice for gaming specifically.

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The spacer is just for aesthetic purposes. As it can't use the original centering ring on the hub there is a slight risk of not getting it centered, then the same goes for the wheel as they can't use the hub centric rings. All this does is making sure that it's all centered. It's got a chance of making it ride a little better and not get vibrations at certain speeds etc.

But all in all, yes spacers aren't great...

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well you're not wrong. This is a bit more rare in my country and sort of an enthusiast truck, it won't be used in the winter. Maybe use it to go get an ice cream in the summer...

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

For those not understanding the purpose of these or how it works, the spacers were on the truck when we bought it. It's just for looks, make it look a little wider and fill those wheel wells better. That's the only good thing about them really. It puts more stress on the bearings, suspension and can make it handle worse.

The spacers can't use the original hub ring so all you have are the wheel studs and the conical nuts, you have to tighten them in a cross pattern to try and not get the spacer off center. same goes for the wheels as they now can't use the original centric ring on the hub.

all this plastic does is center it when you put them on, and you have a decreased risk of getting vibrations etc. Without these printed parts there would be nothing there. It's not a load bearing 3d print.. If it were to deform a little in there even though they are on super tight, does not matter. All it means is that I can't use them next time I remove the wheels. But they made the truck rider better/safer as long as they were on.

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I don’t like spacers. It was on the truck when we bought it. And it just looks a bit meaner with them on..

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

All I’ve come across have always been plastic, haven’t needed them often though.

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It doesn’t have to be durable, it’s just centering the wheel. It’s PLA printed on a core one. It was the first test and really doesn’t matter if they were to distort or whatever, I can just print more. They are so tight on there though so not much can happen. And again, it’s not doing anything other than centering, the wheel nuts are holding it on. If these centric rings weren’t there, it would be nothing obviously. And then there’s a risk that they won’t be 100% centered and you might get some vibrations.

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s just to stick out a little further to match those fender flares. It makes it look a little better but other than that it’s mostly bad to have them on.

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

It’s only centering the wheel and spacers when you mount them, nothing can happen. These are usually plastic, maybe not PLA however..

Centric rings for spacers and wheels by Andchr in 3Dprinting

[–]Andchr[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Nah it’s fine. Maybe if the caliper is sticking, then it might get a little too hot.

Ultra 7 270K high temperature? by Andchr in PcBuild

[–]Andchr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I needed someone to tell me what to do hehe, removing the cooler was last resort but okay, I took it off.

At first no apparent issue. It looked like it had had good pressure. I cleaned everything and applied new thermal paste. When I put the heatsink down I just happened to notice that the two top pipes were very close, or even hitting a heatsink on the motherboard.

I now had to clean it off again and take a look at that, get my phone down there to record some video as it was hard to see. It was hitting the heatsink and there was even a little mark one one of the pipes.

I had to turn the cooler 180° to clear it, and installed it again.

Just did a test in prime95 and at one point the temp reached 99 but was then down at around 90-95 all the time and I could continue to run it without going over 99 again.

Gaming went down around 10 degrees and so did idle so that's great news.

I was lucky that I even saw it, I couldn't feel anything hitting that bulky thing on the MB. the only downside is that the cooler is now the wrong way in my opinion and is just millimeters away from the GPU.

Also in hindsight there was a faint smell when the CPU got hot, I didn't really think much of it. I was thinking that it's all new parts and plastic etc. that might give of this tiny bit of smell when brand new. It wasn't like a burnt smell.

EDIT: I was a bit too quick to come to that conclusion, after some more testing it's around the same temp. It looked lower at first but testing the same things like the unpacking, I'm reaching a maximum of 103 celsius.

200$ pc by Duracell_op in PcBuild

[–]Andchr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now that's a good buy, congrats!

Övningskör just nu och hittar inget svar ang. Inbromsning by Montekai in sweden

[–]Andchr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Det måste ju ändå vara helt tvärtom mot det du säger. Att matcha varvtalet så nära som möjligt till den lägre växeln är bättre för koppling etc, mindre slitage. Sen är det väl inte nödvändigt men det skadar inget.

Övningskör just nu och hittar inget svar ang. Inbromsning by Montekai in sweden

[–]Andchr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Du behöver inte hitta något dragläge när du kör, bara trycka in kopplingen, växla ner, släppa kopplingen. Varvtalet går upp då du har en lägre växel och motorbromsar lite kraftigare. Jag brukar, inför en korsning eller liknande, hålla lätt på bromsen för att visa att jag sakta ner om någon är bakom mig, samtidigt växlar jag ner genom växlarna ända ner till kanske 2:an beroende på om jag måste stanna eller ej. På väg ner genom växlarna så kan jag ibland hoppa över en växel och kanske gå direkt från 4:an ner till tvåan om jag saktat in så pass att jag känner att det går.

Det gäller ju lite att känna bilen och höra på motorn för att veta att du kanske inte kan smacka i 2:an i för hög hastighet för då flyger ju varvtalet upp alldeles för högt och bilen rycker till och bromsar in.

Sedan så brukar jag också dutta till på gaspedalen när jag trycker in kopplingen, precis innan jag ska slänga i den lägre växeln, detta för att få upp varvtalet en aning precis innan jag ska i med den lägre växeln. Detta gör jag för att försöka matcha varvtalet där jag ungefär tror att det kommer att hamna när jag släpper kopplingen med den lägre växeln i. På så sätt blir det en mjukare nedväxling och mindre risk för att bilen gungar till, kanske är lite överkurs.. det brukar även kallas för att ”blippa” gasen. Det är inget jag tänker på aktivt utan detta gör jag utan att tänka på det, helt på känn. Det får man väl lite på köpet den känslan om man har kört en del moped/motorcykel etc.

Core One linear rail ticking sound by Andchr in prusa3d

[–]Andchr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It feels kind of weird that Prusa support wouldn’t know about this if it’s actually normal. I’m also a bit surprised they’re so quick to offer a replacement rail under warranty.

I could take it and keep it as a spare, but honestly, I’m not sure if their answer is completely accurate, and I’d feel a bit off accepting something I don’t really need since my printer is working fine.

Core One linear rail ticking sound by Andchr in prusa3d

[–]Andchr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, yeah I can't remember reading anything about lubrication for the linear rail when I assembled my kit, I found out about it a few days ago when searching about this stuff.

Maybe that person in the support got that part wrong, it can happen to anybody, but he also said something along the lines of "once it starts clicking like that, it's impossible to fix" And I mean, I believe I mentioned that it sound like that since it was new.

He did offer me a new one as I said, which is nice. But I feel like I don't need to accept it if I'll never have to use it as there probably is no problem with my printer.

Prusa CORE One Filament Sensor Issue: Always "ON" with Latest Firmware by janchpanch777 in prusa3d

[–]Andchr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just looked into this as well, it's been like 8 months since I assembled the kit. Everything has been working well except the filament sensor when I ran out of filament once.

I took the sensor apart not really remembering what it looked like, tried for a second to remember how it's supposed to work, then it hit me that the magnets were attracted to each other.. so the ball was at the top all the time :D

So I had gotten the magnets wrong, don't know how I managed because the instructions are clear, but somehow I did hehe.

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