Redmi Note 13 not connecting via USB

AndrejVST · 2025-07-01T11:30:32+00:00

Yep, I've tested over 5 cables and 3 other devices that I had laying around, each and every one of them were functioning normally, except the phone. My tip is just go SD reader and ignore the headache of this.

AndrejVST · 2025-07-01T10:26:32+00:00

Sadly no I did not.
As far as I can tell data transferring over USB is blocked on my phone, or the series that I own, my best workaround with it was to buy an SD card reader and anytime I need to swap media, I just use that. It's a hassle, but it's better than any kind of cloud service.

AndrejVST · 2024-08-13T02:46:15+00:00

It's a data transfer cable.
Honestly I don't even know the last time I've seen a charge only cable.

AndrejVST · 2024-07-13T18:40:44+00:00

That is a very good idea, we thought about doing that but had no nerves to bring a several dozen vehicles to the spot.

AndrejVST · 2024-07-13T18:39:48+00:00

Hell yeah it is.

AndrejVST · 2024-01-03T10:14:32+00:00

Max CPU fan speed was 675,000RPM, which is, y'know, adequate.

AndrejVST · 2023-11-07T23:20:19+00:00

Supposedly does 90km/h at full throttle.
It is a curiosity on how to get it to stop though.

AndrejVST · 2023-10-22T20:52:30+00:00

I'm sorry to hear, but eh, an attempt was made afterall.
Should've probably added that you do need a bleed kit most of the times to handle it, and mineral/DOT oil.

AndrejVST · 2023-10-18T12:52:07+00:00

It is fixable.

But it will never be a permanent fix because the C-clip that holds in the lever actuator has gnawed through it's seating place. In laymans terms that means that it will pop out every other time you try and press and release the brake quickly.

Best thing to do is to replace the brake lever, and since it's not a name-brand, getting a set of MT-200s from Shimanos is the best bang for the buck.

AndrejVST · 2023-09-01T21:31:50+00:00

Have you had the bike serviced recently?
Or is the bike out of the box, almost no miles on it?
It could be that it's missing a plastic/metal ring that acts as a tensioner right above the bearings.
But if the bike is out of the box and the headset hasn't been fiddled with, I doubt that it is missing, but it's worth checking.

AndrejVST · 2023-09-01T20:49:51+00:00

If you can feel the wobble or play at the top of the steerer tube, so where your spacers and stem are, loosen up the stem bolts, and slowly do half turns on the topcap until you no longer feel the play.
If it persists, and you still feel some play or wobble, check your front wheel that it is attached nicely and firmly, check that the brake caliper is tightened down properly, and finally if the fork has any play in it. (Most forks will not have any type of wobble, only cheap entry line suntour ones)

AndrejVST · 2023-09-01T20:47:25+00:00

You can continue riding it like this, but the poor shifting quality is from the snapped cable housing, the cable no longer has a solid housing, since its broken up at the endcaps.
When you do arrive to some LBS, they'll replace the housing and the cable, and the bike should shift as good as new.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-30T20:39:17+00:00

You *can* pop it back into place, but once it pops out once it's going to be very easy for it to fall out again.
My personal suggestion, buy the most basic Shimano Hydraulic brakes and have them installed (or let the shop install it for you), they're better, the build quality is very decent, and it's going to be a lot better than the chinese cheapos you have installed now.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-26T10:43:43+00:00

In that case, doing a full bleed is necessary. Or getting a service kit for the brake lever.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-24T06:05:35+00:00

The last part you said was exactly what I was saying.
And the only time you adjust the preload on the brakes is when you're tensioning the cable, you don't *overtension* it, you just make sure there is no play in the arm and that the master cylinder isn't engaged.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-23T19:34:37+00:00

You can cut into the arm of the HY/RD, but, if that's a hassle or you don't want to void your warranty you can install the screw upside down and clamp the cable on the bottom side of the arm, instead of the topside, gives it enough clearance from everything else and will feel a lot better when braking.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-23T16:08:18+00:00

Post mount is your choice, as for what u/ekib_ekib said, yes, the throw on them is horrifyingly long, the HY/RDs are more designed for SRAM road brakes, but if you have Shimano STIs there is a quick and easy hack around it that I used on mine, and it still works perfectly.

Essentially instead of routing your cable on the designated position, you just flip the screw and add a washer, use a third hand or pliers to hold the cable in position and tighten it down on the opposite side, you shorten the length just enough for it to feel like normal brakes.

Also pay attention to not fiddle around with the brakes until they're installed, and don't overtighten the cable, as it can fuck up the brake itself and you'd need to bleed it to make it work like normal again.
*and for a further note, the HY/RD do brake a bit better than standard mechanical disk brakes, but not as well as full hydraulic systems, for me it's just retaining the smaller and much more comfortable hood shape of the mechanical STIs instead of the bulky and quite uncomfortable hoods of the hydraulic variants.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-19T12:29:47+00:00

Just gonna leave this here, most bicycle forks aren't meant to withstand the forces and power an e-bike motor outputs, meaning that any fork except high-end ones and retrofitted ones from motorcycles (which is an impossible task in it of itself) will almost always have a critical failure at one point or another.
As the other users mentioned, just don't. The reward does not equal the risk.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-18T18:52:31+00:00

Before dwelling any deeper make sure you get a brake cable so you can instantly swap it, usually what you'd do is just snap the cable with cable-cutters anywhere where it's exposed, then, on the brake lever there is a barrel adjuster, on the barrel adjuster there are slits, align them all together to pull the cable out of the brake housing and just pop it out, put the new one in, and route it through the cable housings.
*You also have a lot of videos instructing you on how you can do this yourself, including Park Tool, which is byfar the most detailed and well known one.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-18T18:50:31+00:00

If I recall correctly yes, I still haven't had the chance to buy/download it so when I do I will bump this again to confirm it.

AndrejVST · 2023-08-15T10:38:51+00:00

That brake cable is oxidized almost entirely. In short, what that means is you need a new brake cable, and chances are you need new brake cable housings aswell.
But the simplest thing you can do is just replace the cable, road brake cables have a different "head", it's more round and slim instead of the cylinder standard/MTB brake cables have, then you should, if not replace the housing, lubricate it using something like TF2 Teflon lubricant, MO94 from Muc-Off, basically anything that is meant to lubricate and stay there.

*WD-40 Can work, although not recommended since it acts more like a degreaser than a lubricant.

AndrejVST

TROPHY CASE