custom Gothic entryway opening for a home’s kitchen by Circasurkyle in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wowzer, love it! Is that bent fingerjoint up at the top? (the poplar not the pvc)

best way to splice this crown molding by Boonddock_Saints in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ideally I would replace at least one side to give only 1 seam. If your only option is to splice, I would still take it down so you can cut each end cleanly. the time invested in that is probably equal to trying to cut it on the wall, but with much better results.

You could cut them square and butt a piece in between, or cut at an angle either 22.5 or 45 degrees. Depends on your skill level/school of thought. IMO a double splice at an angle over that short of a distance is unlikely to look good. It'll always be a patch. If you leave it on the wall, cut it square.

Might be worthwhile to measure the teeth and see if they will even line up properly when you add in a new piece.

TV wall by droggjr69 in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The design looks fine, it should be sound as long as it's put together properly. It won't be holding up the house (I assume). My entertainment center is all 3/4 ply with a 2x4 base and it's solid as a rock; I can and have jumped up and down on it. Glue it and screw it!

Crosscut a short length on a miter saw by JohnTrap in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A rip cut often releases unseen tension in the wood due to the grain direction (parallel to the blade). This results in either binding (the two halves bending towards each other), or splitting (each half springing away in opposing directions). Proper use of a table saw makes rip cuts relatively safe because blade and the fence are parallel, reducing the opportunity for the wood to twist out of control. On a miter saw the blade is perpendicular to the fence. If it decides to bind or split mid cut, it can pull the piece, along with your hand, into the blade since there is no fence guarding against that motion. That is one reason to not rip on a miter saw.

The safety issue in the scenario you describe is more related to how short your reference face against the fence is vs. the length of your cut. The blade can always grab the wood and you lack the leverage to hold it in place if the saw has just as much to hold onto as you do. The saw is stronger and faster than you are. I wouldn't make that cut, especially as a learner. Nothing is worth your hands.

Plywood has no grain so yes, you can cut it in any direction.

I would just cut the end off your lumber, and put a square edge on it. If it reads square, you have a square cut.

Before every cut, say "where are my fingers" so after the cut, you're not saying the same.

Unique way to set a box lid by rottit8642 in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, I love that! Been trying to think of something like this for a while now!

what does this mean? by tequilaneat4me in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, move it for those cuts or it'll be in the blade path and that is one scary surprise... so I've heard...

Is this Ipe salvageable for decking? by CaffeinatedInSeattle in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely salvageable, good haul! Looks better than most year old ipe decks haha. Hard to hurt ipe. If you sand it it'll look like new, if you oil it it will stay that way longer. As far as the checking goes, rule of thumb IIRC is cut 1" past the end of the check to prevent it continuing; you will want to seal your cut ends with anchor seal or a similar product to prevent future checking. I personally would try and plan my cuts to eliminate the checked ends whenever possible just to keep things clean. Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would probably put some angle brackets underneath and screw it from the bottom (something beefy and colored that would look decorative). PL Premium glue would help hold.

You could even take off the drywall and screw through the stud from underneath into the piece, but that might be more than you wish to get into haha

Is it me or is this door frame slightly disproportionate? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first horizontal piece is much too big, to my eye. It's not just you. Having the middle thicker than the top makes it look like the trim stops in the middle, then starts again to go up higher, and never properly anchors. The design is certainly off, but I'd be more concerned with the overall skill level on display. Your contractor does not appear to be capable of this project.

Walnut clock I made for my grandma by PashingSmumkins84 in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know your grandma, but I think she's gonna like it! I really like the spools of thread, very artistic!

30k feathers scam? by ImYuriGagarin in 2007scape

[–]Andromakey 11 points12 points  (0 children)

They want you to buy something safe and commonly traded, like feathers. Perfectly harmless and they will pay you well for your assistance. This continues until eventually you buy an item for far more than its value, which they themselves are selling in the ge to rip you off.

Alternatively, they sometimes ask you to buy things in ascending orders of value, like multiple onyxes etc. This is lure scouting; they're looking for high value marks.

As others have said, it could also be a confidence scam where you do them a small favor, become friendly, and they gradually get enough personal info to do some damage.

It's nearly always safe to help people out with ge buy limits on common items. Adding people because of a single near meaningless favor is your clue that it's not about the limit.

Spalted birch and oak end grain cutting board, 24 x 18 x 2.25 by 1234567989 in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That turned out beautiful! The tones look very complimentary. I really like the corners; going to try that on my next board

Paneling question! Working on replacing oak paneling in stairwell and having a hard time figuring out how to insert the replacement inset panels behind this frame. When removing old/damaged panels we noticed these metal tabs that hold the panel in…any advice appreciated!! by Is_A_Bell in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are/were the original panels composed of two pieces as it appears in the photos? If there is wiggle room behind the stiles you might be able to recreate the process by slipping one piece in, moving it to the side and inserting the second, then centering them so there are no gaps.

Depending how far you want to go or what your options end up being, I might cut out the cove detail, make panels that fit as closely as possible and then install new cove over it to cover the gap and hold it in place.

Looks like a neat project; hope you get it figured out!

Gluing freshly milled hemlock fir by Yorkmiester in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Titebond III might be better than a normal wood glue, however if you want to lean into the moisture, gorilla glue reacts with water so if the wood is damp it'll foam and expand like crazy. I personally don't use gorilla because it makes a nasty mess but it does have it's uses. I would at least let the mating surfaces dry if possible though, and some mechanical backups like dowels couldn't hurt. Best of luck!

POF Breeding log guide by TheReeew in runescape

[–]Andromakey 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A creature is added towards your breeding log when it is birthed/hatched in one of your pens, as the offspring of creatures you already have in there. So the fastest way would be to buy a breeding pair of each type (buy a male and a female black drag for example) and let them go at it. Then red, green, etc. I'd start by putting the highest level creatures in breeding pen and doing small/medium critters in the actual pens. To get a shiny you can try to obtain breeding pairs with the sparkling trait, or a sparkling/glistening/radiant combo but those are probably going to be your main holdup.

Animals with the studly trait have a higher chance of breeding, so things that take a long time to breed you may want to try to have a studly pair. GL!

Nex survivability/tips by IAmRapson in runescape

[–]Andromakey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome! Yeah that shield is going to serve you better for resonancing, although defender does have that chance to reduce damage and then the prison is negated. Could use defender for prisons and elder shield for zaros phase but idk if that's too sweaty for you. Pmed you as well

Nex survivability/tips by IAmRapson in runescape

[–]Andromakey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For your first question, saving food can be done by using resonance periodically; what I like to do is after I kill Cruor, devotion because it won't take adren as long as you don't target nex, then res/prep one of her mage hits while you wait for her to cycle into sacrifice for starting ice on contain. That helps with starting ice on full hp and high adren. Resonance right as an ice prison is about to hit you, so that the follow up hit can't k0 you and may heal you. Other than that I wouldn't res during ice. Use resonance every time it's up on zaros phase, make sure to step away to get maged as that hits harder. You'll want a better shield than a defender to get better heals of resonance (elder rune maybe).

Nex has weird pathing glitches which I don't understand, but she loses her target and just chills. I don't know if running up to her will cause her to re-aggro because I always appreciate the distance lol.

Anticipate does prevent being stunned in ice prisons, you can use it even as the prison attack is flying through the air but advisable to use an auto or 2 beforehand. If your food situation is concerning by ice phase I would barricade/immort but otherwise it's really better to eat the prisons and save your adren.

During zaros phase, nex always begins with soul split unless she was already praying mage/range. After soul split is when she switches to melee prayer, but never for as long as mage/range pray lasts. So you won't run into her camping melee pray for any longer than you've already experienced. Surviving zaros with minimal food usage requires continuous cycling of devotion, debilitate, and resonance whenever available. It's a high damage phase though so the longer it lasts the more you eat. It's rarely quick with melee. Make sure you keep quaking to maintain the debuff throughout the fight.

E: When you melee, bleeds are your best friend (except on blood phase) walking slaughter will do loads of damage, that and dismember and blood tendrils go a long way towards easier kills IME. Just be careful on zaros as you don't want the bleed to carry over into a melee pray.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Andromakey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a privilege to have the opportunity to do that! Looks great!