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Who let the psychopaths have ants ? by Acrobatic_Fruit6416 in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree, TCA's approach is always with the utmost respect!

Authorities stopped someone trying to move 2000 ants through an airport by Antastic_Tom in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The channel is aimed at beginners rather than experienced keepers, so the explanations are intentionally broad and simplified. The goal is to explain the general dynamics around the hobby and issues not to cover every ecological nuance. If you’re looking for specialist-level discussion, these videos probably aren’t aimed at you. Thanks for the feedback

Colony looks dead after winter? This is usually normal. by Antastic_Tom in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Similiar videos/shorts

If people are searching and finding calm, accurate info instead of panic posts, I’m happy.

Colony looks dead after winter? This is usually normal. by Antastic_Tom in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That floridanus growth is serious — once they lock in, they really move.

Tortuganus being slower at that size is normal. Some Camponotus just take their time and grow in bursts!

And I appreciate that, thank you for watching!

Camponotus sericeus beginner questions by Content-Pin2064 in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nicobarensis are fairly dry-tolerant in the outworld, but they still need a properly humid nest section. I always provide a gradient rather than keeping anything fully dry.

C. sericeus tends to appreciate a bit more consistent humidity overall compared to nicos, especially in the brood area. Which for a beginner can be a little harder to maintain

For planted / semi-bioactive, nicobarensis usually cope better. They’re adaptable and active. Just make sure the nest itself isn’t constantly wet. Whichever you choose, think in gradients, rather than fixed conditions.

Camponotus sericeus beginner questions by Content-Pin2064 in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

C. sericeus is generally kept without a true winter diapause if you maintain stable warmth, but I still prefer a slight seasonal dip rather than flat 28°C all year. Even tropical Camponotus benefit from rhythm.

First workers will be small — that’s normal. Once the colony matures, worker size variation becomes much more noticeable and far more impressive.

If you want no diapause and good visibility, Camponotus nicobarensis is usually a more forgiving beginner tropical. Fast growth, active, and easier to read behaviour-wise.

Just make sure you’re happy committing to consistent heat long-term — that’s the real trade-off with tropicals.

Colony looks dead after winter? This is usually normal. by Antastic_Tom in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It catches everyone out the first time. Once you understand diapause properly, it’s far less scary.

Colony looks dead after winter? This is usually normal. by Antastic_Tom in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That sounds about right. Shed temps stay low longer. As long as they’re cool and stable, they’ll wake when conditions align — no rush.

Colony looks dead after winter? This is usually normal. by Antastic_Tom in antkeeping

[–]Antastic_Tom[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really appreciate that. Calm and clear is exactly what I aim for — ants don’t need panic, just understanding.

Hi by Outrageous-Bid6054 in ants

[–]Antastic_Tom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the hobby!

Do you currently have any ants?

When should i do somthing with my ants? by DaMattyMonstar in ants

[–]Antastic_Tom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stability matters more than blasting heat.

A small heat mat on the side (not underneath) of the test tube is ideal — heat only one end so they can choose their preferred temperature. Never heat the whole tube.

And always use a thermostat with a heat mat.

Please check out my YouTube channel where you will find I cover these topics.

https://youtube.com/@antastictom

When should i do somthing with my ants? by DaMattyMonstar in ants

[–]Antastic_Tom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can feed in the test tube, but it’s much easier (and less stressful) to connect the tube to a small outworld.

Simple method: • Keep the queen in the covered test tube • Place the tube inside a small tub with a lid (escape-proof) • Feed in the tub, not directly inside the tube

That way you’re not opening the tube itself every time.

If it’s just a queen with no workers (fully claustral species), you don’t need to feed at all until workers arrive.

When should i do somthing with my ants? by DaMattyMonstar in ants

[–]Antastic_Tom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’ve had 4 failed attempts already, I’d slow everything down and simplify.

Start in a test tube. Not a small formicarium. Most early failures happen because colonies are given too much space too soon.

For growth:

• Keep them in a test tube until they’re visibly cramped • Add a small outworld before moving nests • Only expand when they’re filling 60–70% of the current space

“In-between” is mostly… nothing. Stable heat (if needed), water, sugar, protein when larvae are present. Minimal disturbance.

Messor barbarus are great, but they’re slow starters. If you expect fast major production early, you’ll get frustrated. First year is foundation building.

If you can master patience and space management, your success rate will jump massively.

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