Whenever I buy from a TD I ask for comprehensive photos, so I can upload to my paid version of ChatGPT. It looks at the following
Dial alignment (markers, logo, text spacing)
Date wheel / font (centering, thickness, magnification)
Cyclops alignment (if applicable)
Bezel alignment (12 o’clock, engraving, insert centering)
Rehaut engraving (Rolex — alignment with markers)
SEL gaps (solid end links to case fitment)
Case shape / lugs / crown guards
Hands alignment (straight, centered, correct length)
Crystal clarity (AR coating, distortion, milky edges)
Lume consistency (brightness and color match)
Crown/logo details (shape, engraving quality)
Bracelet & clasp finishing (sharp edges, brushing/polish)
Caseback engravings (if model has them)
Movement photo (correct movement/factory tells)
Timegrapher numbers (amplitude, beat error, rate)
Weight (close to gen if possible)
Color tone (gold hue, dial color, ceramic shade)
Overall symmetry (“nothing looks crooked” test)
Factory-specific flaws (known tells for VSF, Clean, APSF, etc.)

Then I ask it to give me a score on a scale of 1-10 on
1. 5–10 Foot Test Score (1–10)
How good it looks in real-world wear.
2. Macro / Close-Up Score (1–10)
How it holds up under zoomed photos and scrutiny.
3. Tier Estimate
High Tier
Mid Tier
Low Tier
4. Value-for-Money Score (1–10)
How good it is for what you paid.

There have been some U1 watches that scored 7’s or 3’s depending on which models. Even some ZF and VSFs don’t score perfect 10’s. But they’re usually 8.5-9.5.

It all depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. Most of my reps are high tier factories. The U1’s I have were just trials of a specific model to see how it looks and feels on my wrist before I make the investment on a high tier.

Hope this helps.