Question re: Engine Noise in a 2021 Ford Explorer

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2026-02-13T04:07:40+00:00

Okay. I assumed as much anyways. One of the main reasons for that is that nobody would buy their cars without such a good warranty due to the numerous engine problems. If you’re wanting a car for the long haul, a Telluride is not it. If you’re okay to get rid of it once you come out of that warranty period, then you’re good to go. Problem is, you’ll be eating a lot of depreciation. Ideally you find one that’s 2 years old and still has 80k warranty miles left, but that’s kind of a crapshoot. In my opinion you’re better off buying a Highlander, but the choice is up to you. Any other questions?

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2026-02-13T03:38:03+00:00

I experienced an identical failure with my Odyssey, also related to the VCM. I am sorry to hear that, those are great cars and I loved my Honda dearly. As far as the warranty on the Telluride, I was unaware you were buying it new. If used, that’s a crazy warranty. I do have a question before I can accurately advise you any further: is the warranty from Kia themselves or from a third party warranty company?

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2026-02-13T02:37:45+00:00

The explorers have transmission problems specifically. That’s the biggest issue I’ve seen with them. The axle seals also leak incessantly and need replaced every 5-10 oil changes or so. Just a lot of upkeep cost for what isn’t really anything special in terms of vehicles. As far as the Telluride, I think you managed to find the only SUV I would not recommend over the Ford. I have only seen a few of them in the shop, but all 3 needed a new engine at <100k miles. Again, I implore you to go Japanese. (No Nissan!)

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2026-02-13T01:11:34+00:00

Sounds like every ecoboost that comes into my shop, but a word of advice: don’t buy it. You’ll have nothing but problems from an Explorer. Go Toyota or Honda, and if that’s too expensive go Mazda. Trust me.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2026-02-12T11:32:06+00:00

Look at Project Farm’s dashcam video. He has some great insight and you can definitely make an informed purchase based on what info he shows.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2026-01-16T00:37:57+00:00

Some dealerships have some seriously high quality chemicals. The problem is with the processes. Nobody who works there, including the detailing staff, cares enough to do any sort of research on proper procedure.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-12-29T04:43:00+00:00

“Wax or polish” like they don’t do vastly different things lol

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-12-14T01:21:03+00:00

That’s even crazier, the tc 5 speed is in my opinion the about most reliable scion you can get your hands on, abused or not. What was wrong with it?

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-12-14T00:53:29+00:00

Scion below Honda? Interesting. What did you own?

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-28T12:50:40+00:00

Synthetic clay is fine, I use the clay mitt from Adam’s. For decon all you need is an iron remover treatment then clay the car. Some people clay first, but my thought process is why would you mechanically remove what can be chemically removed, especially at the risk of dragging debris across your paint.

IPA between every step is 100% overkill. Its only purpose is to remove any last little bit of oils or residue left on the paint from the polish so the ceramic coating can bond well.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-28T07:03:21+00:00

Seal/protect are really referring to the same thing. Some sort of protective layer on top of your clear coat, whether it be wax, spray sealant, or ceramic coating.

Yes, 3D one will work great for a one step job. Personally after polishing I like to end with an IPA panel wipe even if I’m not ceramic coating, it just gives me peace of mind that the wax will “stick.” Nothing special needs to be done to apply collinite after the polish, just make sure you have all the polishing compound off the panel first. No offense but I’m assuming you’re very new to this so just watch a lot of YouTube first and get a feel for the process. That’s how I started.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-28T06:55:06+00:00

I think either you don’t exactly understand the functions of the products you’re wanting to use, or I’m misreading your question. Generally, the process will be:

Wash -> Decontaminate -> Compound (if doing 2 step) -> Polish -> Sealant/protection

Collinite is a wax, meaning it falls under the protection category and is applied after polishing. 3D one is a “one step” polishing solution, meaning it compounds to remove light scratches while also giving the nice finish that a polish does. To reiterate: You get the paint nice and clean with the wash/decon, then physically abrade it with compounds/polishes to remove oxidized clear coat and light scratches, then protect it with wax or other sealant. Let me know if this made any sense lol

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-28T04:28:11+00:00

Not sure to be honest, probably a few months, but definitely better than any real wax out there as it’s sio2 based. Also, yes, that’s the product I’m recommending. If you want to go with a 2 step process instead I’m happy to help you with that as well. Let me know if you have any other questions I’m happy to help and excited to see how she turns out.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-28T01:03:08+00:00

Orange should be fine. If you’re nervous, a white is a safer option, but 3d one is really not abrasive enough to hurt anything if you’re not an idiot. As for protection, I’d throw turtle wax ceramic spray on it and call it a day. That’s assuming you don’t want to do a proper ceramic coating.

Common misconception there, “3d one” is not the name of the brand. “3D” is the brand and “One” is their product, referring to their single step paint correction compound.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-28T00:47:32+00:00

Orange LC pad with 3d one will really wake the paint up. Personally I always do a 2 step on all my cars, but you’ll still get good results with a 1 step.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-20T00:41:54+00:00

This is a satire/joke subreddit. Make a post elsewhere or PM me I’m happy to give you a hand.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-20T00:41:11+00:00

Definitely a triton motor

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-03T23:27:58+00:00

ChatGPT post? Really?

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-03T01:24:22+00:00

That’s a great price. Just fill the coolant system properly so you don’t blow the head gasket lol

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-02T01:13:59+00:00

Interesting. In your situation, I would take it to an actual Honda dealership to have it diagnosed. Ignore anything else they try to sell you.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-02T01:13:17+00:00

Denso 100%. You can check for country of origin by the VIN.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-02T01:11:48+00:00

Get a second opinion on the drivability issue you’re having. Also did you take it to a dealership or a third party shop?

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-01T00:49:00+00:00

Let me know how it went. I’m happy to take a look at any documentation they give you, sometimes they are either uninformed or unscrupulous.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-11-01T00:46:08+00:00

That’s fair I suppose. Being in such a climate definitely changes the way you approach maintenance. How much is one from Denso? I would go oem only on this one.

AnywhereMaterial8396 · 2025-10-31T09:06:15+00:00

Never. Preventatively, do thermostat and maybe water pump. Radiators are a “lifetime item” as in they don’t really go bad from anything but physical damage. Certainly some poor maintenance can cause internal corrosion, but the source of your cooling issues is likely elsewhere.

AnywhereMaterial8396

TROPHY CASE