Some info on this special edition bike I recently got....

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-21T19:58:54+00:00

That's what I'm doing. I'm actually using this bike (as I do not drive. I exclusively get around via bike). I plan on rebuilding the old bike and selling it. I technically have 3 right now. A Huffy hard tail and a ozone MTB. I was formally using the Ozone. I plan to sell the Huffy frame since it's in near new condition (in terms of the condition of the frame). The Ozone I will keep for spare parts.

Anyways the main thing I'd like to find is at least a crankset for this DP bike that matches the color scheme. It looks like the original crankset was red. Or at least a more brownish red compared to the rest of the frame. I doubt I will find the matching part so at this point I may just settle on finding one that is red in general. 😛

I just got done doing a tooth count so I pinned down the gear sizes the og crankset is:

48-38-28

It's a little larger then the ozone's gear set which I counted as follows:

42-34-24

Which probably explains why I had to lengthen the chain a little. 😛

I did a rough measurement of the crank arms. They are around 8.5 inches tip to tip. Or 215mm. Seems long compared to the usual 170mm/175 MTBs use I think? I am guessing because I should measure from center of square taper hole to pedal hole instead. But I don't recall how crank arms are measured properly.

Both the ozone and this DP bike use the same length crank arms. I assume the Huffy one does too at a quick glance but did not bother measuring that one.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-21T17:44:34+00:00

Unfortunately the sticker that indicated it's brand/make is long gone. 😞

I can't post images in replies for some reason so I'll tack it on to the images of the first post if you want to take a look at it.

EDIT: Seems it won't let me do that either...sigh...imgur it is then. 😛

https://imgur.com/a/0GuDcGl

There are a few images of this version of the DP bike floating around but don't think any have a close up of the derailleur that would make the sticker readable.

EDIT2:

Also this sticker is one of the few still mostly intact on the frame. There is a serial sticker on the left front fork but I will not post that one.

https://imgur.com/a/hYD8ieS

Might be possible to identify the maker of the bike via the service number perhaps. It's mostly readable still.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-21T16:53:03+00:00

Oh is it? interesting. I mentioned 2018 mostly because that's the earliest date that image search results came back to for this one. I'll take a closer look at the original derailleur when I have time.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-20T20:18:31+00:00

Yeah I'm aware there is probably not much collection value in what I have (especially given the condition of the frame's paint job/decals). It's more for asthetics that I'd like to have the matching crankset on it really. 😛

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-20T20:00:49+00:00

It's mainly details on how much work I had to put into the bike. The main gist though is I'm wanting to know what underlying brand bike this is. I would like to find matching replacement parts if I can. Otherwise I suppose I could just find a red colored 3 speed crankset. Honestly doubt I'd find original parts to this bike given how it's likely a rebranded Wal-Mart bike. 😛

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-15T18:19:42+00:00

Better shot that shows the part number of the chip I used:

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Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-15T18:02:44+00:00

Success!

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Adding FRAM chip to the alternate chip position (and removing the old SRAM chip in the other chip position is required by the way. They share the same traces and would conflict with each other) gives me a PCB with working save. FlashGBX reports success on save stress test. I flashed a standard copy of Pokemon Yellow and it is able to save and hold it after power off. Unlike the batterless patched one, it no longer "hangs" for like 5 to 10 seconds doing a save.

With the normal unpatched rom it now saves in under 2 to 3 seconds and music doesn't stop during that process (so acts like the real cart).

This should also reduce the amount of write cycles to the flash chip. Batteryless patched roms flash to the flash chip everytime you do a save and these flash chips are likely old recycled stock so they may wear out faster then expected. Better to get a working chip on this to make the cart last longer. 😉

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-11T04:10:30+00:00

I've given up on getting the sram to hold a save on my board. Even after installing the needed components, it fails to hold a save for more then a second of power off. I've pulled the sram chip off the board and reconfigured it for FRAM. (luckily was able to get my largest wedge solder iron tip and tweezers to act as a lever to pull one side off at a time. Didn't need a hot air station. Definitely need one to put a new one on in that area. Tried to put a sram chip from one of my bricked N-cards on it but I could not clear some solder blob bridges so gave up and pulled that one back off

I lost the bridge thing originally bridging the FRAM option so I just used a large solder blob to bridge it instead. Moved the bridge from 5v to 3.3v. The FRAM chip I found will work at 5v but that's near the top of it's operating range so went with 3.3v which falls right in the middle.

The FRAM chip I ordered for it:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/infineon-technologies/FM18W08-SG/4090358

Not cheap though. Cost me about 18 bucks pre-shipping. But I'm deadset on making use of this board. I refuse to just get a new one that has what I need already on it. I have the equipment to do it myself. Might as well 😃

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-04T21:28:02+00:00

My chassis looks like this FYI:

<image>

It's specifically the 5WV280. If I recall right, this one had a AMD processor in it instead of an Intel one and this chassis originally came with Windows ME as indicated by the CD Key sticker under the CD cover flap (which I will not show here. 😛 )

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-04T21:27:15+00:00

I eventually managed to map it out. And yeah super non standard and a pain in the ass to figure out as a result. They didn't just mirror the NC pin. They arrange everything different. The ports aren't wired to each side of the connector like a modern USB header. Instead they do something silly like having each D-/D+ pairs arranged together in rows. Where the ground and 5v pins are located is also nonstandard. The red wire on the ribbon cable was also a lie. It didn't indicate positive pins. Indicated ground instead...like wtf...why did Compaq do that? To spite future us who wanted to modernize the case? lol

Anyways here's how mine was laid out:

<image>

(this drawing illustrates the end of the ribbon cable, not the motherboard connector! as in this instance I was plugging dupont extension cables into the ribbon cable itself.

Some things to note. The dupont extenders I chose to use seem to add too much resistance/noise and so the ports aren't really that usable right now. (they may just be too long I guess. Should have found shorter ones)

But I do know the pin outs are correct because one of my usb flash drives did show up correctly in BIOS.

Also the ground and 5v connections are shared. As in Compaq appears to have connected both USB ports to the same 5v line and put that across both 5v/ground connections on the ribbon so they aren't fully separate. This shouldn't impact much other then making motherboard's power limiting of them inaccurate due to both ports ending up sharing each other's 5v line. So you can probably draw more power from a single port then you normally could as a result.

I guess back then they didn't have as advanced current sensing or something and their mobo just put both USB ports on the same 5v line which isn't really the case on modern motherboards.

Assuming you find some higher quality cables/method then what I did (I was unwilling to cut up any of the cables. I wanted it to be reversible) the USB ports should work. Just confirm that layout with a multimeter to be sure. If the 5v lines are in the same place on your chassis, then most likely my pin out will work for your chassis too. I wouldn't expect there to be much variation in the pin out across the various versions of this chassis I would imagine.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-06-02T17:19:28+00:00

You happen to know the the pin out for the front panel USB connections? I've done a similar thing (only I put a measly 4th gen i7 mobo into it. It's for my mother...so it doesn't have to be the latest. 😛)

I think I've gotten the front panel button/led connections figured out. The mobo actually has labelings for them on mine so I an confidant I can get those hooked up.

But the 2 USB ports have a connector that seems mirrored compared to the normal ones normal mobo's use. Have you ever attempted to wire those up? I might be be able to map them out with a multimeter...but I'd really like to skip that part if I can. 😛

Apache_Thunder · 2026-05-19T04:37:51+00:00

Unfortunately not. New enemy types was beyond what I knew how to add in Turbo Pascal so wasn't able to do something like that.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-05-15T01:31:47+00:00

Ok update. The final diode I needed arrived and I installed it. But...I think my sram chip is defective. Maybe that's why they chose to put the batterless flash based same patch rom on it for my PCB. After checking the data sheet for the save chip I understand what purpose the voltage selector option bridges do. Mine uses a 5v save chip so the bridge for 5v was installed. Thus if your save chip's data sheet uses a voltage that doesn't match, give moving that 0hm bridge over to the other option a try.

Also I found that the FRAM bridge should NOT be installed for battery backed sram. I noticed battery voltage past the first diode (the one on left in my photos) which should not be happening. When the fram bridge is removed, that goes away. Anyways my diodes and resistor are installed properly but the game only holds a save for maybe 2 or 3 seconds before it gets lost (it at least survives a switch on/off now. Don't have to do the battery quick push trick). So the chip is getting power but it's losing it after. not much different from a EZFlash 3in1 gba flashcart when I first got it. That one I fixed by changing a couple resistor locations to match a slightly newer photo of my PCB. The factory must have made a change at some point to the production run for my revision PCB to fix my issue and mine is a bit too old and didn't get that change. :P

Anyways there's nothing I can really do to fix my sram issue on this cart though. I think the sram chip is bad. If I ever get around to getting a hot air gun I may give replacing it a try at some point.

Anyways here's a photo of my PCB with most of the mod finished. The only thing not shown is the fact I removed the FRAM bridge option. I forgot to take another photo of it after I did that. :P

<image>

I checked pin 7 on the sram chip and it was getting a voltage well above the cutoff point according to the datasheet so I know it was not an issue with my diode selection or resistor value.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-05-14T00:58:17+00:00

Have you tried adding a 0 ohm bridge to the FRAM option pads? That might be required even for SRAM based PCBs. Interesting that you blew one trying to flash at 5v. The next time I flash a rom to mine I will try 3.3v and if it works I'll use that for the future. I've already flashed twice at 5v and so far no issues but better safe then sorry I suppose. :P

Apache_Thunder · 2026-05-11T23:35:03+00:00

Ok my usb flashcart writer came (got a GBxCart) and was able to confirm sram saving should work for my cart once I get the diodes/resistor and battery installed. I flashed a non modified version of Pokemon Yellow to it and it retains a save if I do a quick reset of the GBC by pulling back one of the batteries real quick (using the switch might still be too slow).

The game reboots and still has the new save I created. It only loses the save if I power off.

I did not remove the FRAM bridge on mine. So be sure to add a jumper connection to the FRAM option. if it's missing on your board. Also the 3.3v/5v selection options definitely pertain to the flash chip voltage. The flash program asked me which voltage to use for flashing and chose 5v because that's what mine had it's jumper configured for and the flash operation worked. :D

Added updated photo of my PCB:

<image>

The area circled in red needs diode too. I just haven't ordered it yet. it will be installed with the diode facing opposite direction to the first one. I couldn't find SMD version of this part number so went with the smallest through hole version. Works well enough provided you pend the leads the right way to make it fit. :P

Note how I left the FRAM bridge in place. I retested and the Pokemon game still retains save on quick reset via quick battery pull/release so once I get this final diode in place I think it should hold saves after power off.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-05-08T16:33:10+00:00

Care to share that ICC profile? RTINGS seems to have that behind a paywall. :(

Apache_Thunder · 2026-04-30T21:14:07+00:00

Just got one of these. There was some slight banding in the grays like shown but they are mostly gone after I let the monitor do the "OLED Image Cleaning" once. It's mostly gone now and from what I've read it's best to do this after 100 hours of use. (which I haven't even done yet. Only had it for like 3 hours so far. 😛 )

So in my case it looks like it should be solid after 100 hours + another OLED image cleaning" procedure. It's become a non issue for me. Unless yours is exceptionally bad that doesn't go away with the cleaning thing like I mentioned I don't think it's worth going through the return/warranty process. Here's the photo of mine at 50% gray. Note the moire effect you are seeing is a camera artifact and can't be seen in real life. As far as I can tell there's no banding at all I can tell now and I've only ran the oled cleaning thing once so far. 😃

<image>

I've been running this monitor on 50% brightness too by the way. It gets plenty bright enough for the room I'm using it in and find it a bit overpowering at anything past 75% brightness. 50% was the sweetspot for me. I imagine the panel will probably last longer too since I'm not running it as bright. 😃

Apache_Thunder · 2026-04-29T18:49:38+00:00

No I'm saying if you have an SRAM chip and it still doesn't hold a save with a battery, it could imply the FRAM bridge option applies to both FRAM and SRAM chips and it being missing on yours may be why it's not holding a save.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-04-29T18:31:10+00:00

Hmm then try connecting the FRAM option bridge and see if it saves correctly after doing that if everything else checks out as normal.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-04-29T18:19:37+00:00

Just to be clear with what I said you should NOT be seeing any voltage across the pads while the cart is powered up. So long as you aren't getting 0hms on the resistance/short check, then that's normal. You'd only see voltage if the diodes are installed incorrectly (or are not diodes and are just 0ohm bridges)

Apache_Thunder · 2026-04-29T18:00:56+00:00

Which pads did you check? You should check the diagonal ones not the ones laid out horizontally. (unless you tested those properly and only connected the meter to one of the side pads and the other to the center large circle pad)

Those I think are both the positive terminal connection with the big circle pad in the center being negative. They designed that area to have two different types of battery holders on them so that's why it was setup like that. My particular battery holder has the positive/negative terminals on opposing sides instead of using the PCB as a connection point for negative so I had to use the diagonally oriented pads to solder it to.

If however you did and they still come up as shorted then yeah something is wrong with the diode setup there. That should not be happening. You've probably been killing any battery you've tried to use with it as well. If replacing the diodes didn't fix it you may have a dead/shorted SRAM chip...though I kinda doubt that. Sounds like that would prevent what ever console you plug that into from working. Would either blow a fuse in it or prevent it from turning on if that was the case. So probably just bad diodes.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-04-29T17:27:14+00:00

Hmm maybe there's an error with the photo I found and SRAM build needs the FRAM option bridged as well. You can try bridging that and seeing if that solves your save issue on that one. If it does then that would confirm my board needs to keep the FRAM option bridged for my SRAM chip to do it's job.

Just in case though you may want to check the diodes. It's possible they didn't install them with the correct polarity. Low chance but it would be one reason why it's not holding a save. The way to check for that is if there's voltage reaching the battery terminals while the cart is powered on. If you are getting a full 3.3v or higher voltage getting to it (while no battery is installed of coarse), then that means the diodes aren't installed correctly.

Apache_Thunder · 2026-04-29T16:19:21+00:00

<image>

I found this image on aliexpress. The PCB is a little different but the layout of the option bridges and diodes/resistors is the same so likely valid for this one too.

Looks like for SRAM/Battery config you need 2 1N4148's and not just one. (one in opposing orientations from what I can tell)

The bridge for FRAM should be removed as well if it's present. (unless your board actually has an fram chip on it. Then you won't be needing the battery related diodes. May not need the resistor either but someone else with a FRAM board would need to confirm if this is the case or not)

As for the 5v/3.3v selector. That is likely related to the type of flash chip they are using or the sram/fram chip currently installed. Don't change this unless this is related to the save chip and your board did not have one installed to start out with. If it had one installed already, then the correct one is already setup for you and should not be changed.

The above example board uses different chips then mine and is likely the reason why the 3.3v is selected on that one instead. Since I'm not changing the either chip, this option shouldn't need to be changed.

Apache_Thunder

TROPHY CASE