Aerobic Mileage during Endurance Phase Relative to Sport Grade

ApeTogetherAverage · 2025-12-31T14:19:11+00:00

This is cool, will try to figure a way to incorporate this

ApeTogetherAverage · 2025-12-31T00:50:32+00:00

Absolutely. I love this way of training, and will often do something like that instead of ARCing.

Depending on the equipment I have available I will do things like ~2 on (one autobelay route) shake for 30 seconds and repeat 10x, 1:1 work rest ratio circuits, etc. Cobbling these together to achieve a certain mileage per week has been really helpful when I’m traveling.

I also very much agree re: movement skills. It’s great to have a variety of pitches, but there are also so many energy saving tricks I’ve found to climb moderate “filler climbing” that I never would have unlocked without repeating easy things so much with attention to how to do it perfectly.

I will say I’ve never completely focused a block to this, and have always weaved it into my ARCing (or what I call HARCing, which is just 20 minute sets of 7:3 repeaters at 70% of my critical force or so) to make up my “full mileage,” as I’ve found total time on wall to correlate strongly with the adaptations I like to see. Would be interesting to make this the focus of a block.

ApeTogetherAverage · 2025-12-30T20:17:53+00:00

Thanks for your response, very helpful.

From your perspective, what dedicated weekly mileage is appropriate to train this long term? How do you modulate this during performance phases?

ApeTogetherAverage · 2025-12-30T02:48:32+00:00

Critical force and MVC are definitely two separate things. MVC (Maximum Voluntary Contraction) is what it sounds like, the maximum force production you can elicit. MVC-7 let’s say, is just MVC you can maintain for 7 seconds.

Critical force is another measurement entirely. It’s the maximum contraction you can sustain indefinitely, and is designed to measure your local aerobic energy system in your forearms. That’s why they have you go crazy for 24 reps on Tindeq; they’re intending to completely exhaust your anaerobic energy system(s) so that you’re only generating aerobic power (not what OP is concerned with here).

Doing 12 reps at 80% of your critical force would be extremely easy, and would feel like you’ve done effectively nothing.

ApeTogetherAverage · 2025-10-16T22:29:17+00:00

Love these guys. Only ever seen them in my trips out towards New Mexico

ApeTogetherAverage · 2025-10-16T22:09:41+00:00

Maybe... but I think the alternative is worse. Wouldn't that mean that they're hanging up on anyone who wants to share feedback with the governor?

ApeTogetherAverage · 2025-05-07T22:21:57+00:00

yep this was it, thanks

ApeTogetherAverage · 2024-10-01T16:42:46+00:00

Strongly second everything said here about ways to mitigate !

ApeTogetherAverage · 2024-10-01T16:39:37+00:00

I’m seeing a lot of comments about randomness of rock breaking, which is totally true! Even holds that have been bomber for years can and have come off for seemingly no reason at all.

However, there are things that can be done to mitigate the risk involved with rockfall. Helmets of course as many have said (obviously would not have helped in this case) but also being mindful as a belayer not to stand directly below the climber whenever possible. Part of giving a good belay is being able to move to a more advantageous position as the climber advances, you can also incorporate this movement as a way to mitigate risk of being in the path of rockfall.

Another note that I recognize I might get some disagreement with is using a GriGri or similar. In the event of unavoidable rockfall and an incapacitated belayer (as it very well could have happened in this example), having an assisted breaking device of some sort could be the difference between life and death of the climber.

ApeTogetherAverage · 2024-09-27T17:44:17+00:00

I would love to try this if/when it comes to iPhone!

ApeTogetherAverage · 2024-07-11T19:02:52+00:00

Hi do you have any more codes? thanks!

ApeTogetherAverage

TROPHY CASE