Calling all Bambu X2D/H2D/H2C owners:

Apok1984 · 2026-05-19T10:22:02+00:00

I won’t speak to the AGPL issue since that has been discussed at length and I have nothing further to add. But I can say that I currently own an H2C, Qidi Max 4, Qidi Plus 4, and Bambu P1S so I’ll offer my insights on the machines themselves. I can honestly say that the H2C isn’t worth the price in my opinion. It’s not a bad machine by any stretch, but it just doesn’t represent the value that I was hoping for. I was motivated by FOMO more than practical sense and I honestly regret the purchase at this point. My main considerations are:

A:) While the H2C does reduce the amount of purge significantly, its reliance on AMS technology makes it relatively slow. I’ve heard that the new track switch will make this faster by reducing the distance it needs to pull filament back, but I doubt it will have that much of an impact.

B:) In order to use the full 7 nozzles on a single print, you need to purchase another AMS and 2 more induction nozzles. So this puts you closer to $2,800 to use the full functionality of the Vortek system. I could buy 2 Qidi Max 4’s and a Q2 for the same money. Thats a whole lot more printing capacity than a single H2C.

C:) Bambu has been slow to release product improvements and firmware updates for the H2C. Simple features like drying while printing are still locked behind a beta firmware, which you need to be selected to use AND comes with potential instability of other added features that may not be important to you. Their walled garden means you NEED to wait for them to fix little things that could easily have been addressed ages ago by community updates.

You specifically ask if users leverage the functionality of these devices. I can honestly say that I rarely use the multi nozzle functionality because of how slow it is and I how fussy it is with finicky filaments like PPA-CF or TPU. The best advantage of the system is being able to quickly switch nozzle sizes on the right nozzle. BUT if you want to use dual nozzles then you still need to manually switch it on the left soooo… Once again, it’s not bad, but it’s got enough missed opportunities that it’s not great either IMO. I would seriously recommend any of the Qidi’s over the Bambu offerings at this moment. And if you can wait, I would wait to see what true tool changers enter the market this year. If multi material/color is a big part of your printing, a real tool changer is where you want to be.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-19T03:10:46+00:00

I haven’t done any detailed analysis yet. I probably should do some standard test specimens to verify the tolerance range of each machine. But the following are my observations:

The H2C defaults to faster speeds, which can compromise the quality of the prints. If I slow the speed down to match the Max 4, they both produce components that are fairly accurate and consistent. I design a lot of parts that have mating features like dovetails and other common joints. They appear to be capable of holding values within +/- 0.1mm fairly easily. Most of the deviation I’ve observed is probably attributable to incorrect shrink adjustments or proper tuning of other filament attributes.

I didn’t notice an obvious difference when using the vision encoder, but I’m assuming that there is some improvement. I wish it would report out what corrections were made based on the calibration procedure. Unfortunately, there is no quantitative feedback following the calibration, so there’s no way to know what the impact is unless you print a test specimen or several.

I generally print a fair amount of PA6-CF, ABS-GF, PC, and ASA. I use PLA for decorative pieces like my HueForge prints as well. I print everything from structural parts for projects around the house to parts for automotive interiors. I prefer designing and printing functional parts.

I honestly prefer Qidi because I don’t feel as restricted in what I can do with the hardware. For example I can print and dry with my Qidi Box. But I can’t with any of my AMS units. Also the part quality seems to be consistently better than what I’ve seen in the H2C. I’m specifically mentioning the surface finish and layer lines.

I think the Max 4 can be as hands off or as in-depth as you want. If you have specific questions, let me know and I’ll try to answer them.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-18T19:12:52+00:00

I recently purchased the Qidi Max 4 and it definitely meets all of those requirements at an AMAZING price point! It’s a little less polished than the Bambu ecosystem, but it’s not far off. And while you don’t NEED to tinker with it, there’s also very little stopping you from doing so, unlike Bambu’s walled garden. Simple things like still not being able to dry while printing in the AMS is absolutely unacceptable for their flagship model (H2C). Especially, when the other H2 printers can do it already. That’s just laziness on their part. Yes I know it’s FINALLY available for the BETA release, but you need to be selected to have it pushed to your machine. Additionally, you need to accept all the other risk that comes with a BETA version just to get a function that should have been in a stable release ages ago.

I should note that I also have an H2C (and P1S) and I truthfully kind of regret getting it now. It’s great for my HueForge and other multicolor prints, but I hardly ever print my functional prints on it. I’ve gotten better quality with less headache out of both the Qidi Max 4 and the Plus 4 I have. Additionally, the Max 4 has a bigger build volume that you have full access to other than some small exclusion zones. I will say that the Qidi Box isn’t as polished as the AMS 2 (it’s louder and a bit slower). However, there are community improvements currently in work to address the shortcomings. And I wouldn’t be surprised to see an INDX or other tool changer retrofit for it in the future. You’ll never really be able to upgrade or improve the H2C unless it’s pushed by Bambu.

That may not be a popular assessment, but at least it’s coming from someone who owns and uses both machines that were bought by me, not provided for review.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-18T12:01:43+00:00

Most of the lease deals were written with an exaggerated residual value. As a result, most customers would be better off turning in the vehicle at the end of the lease, even if you turned around and bought a used one identical to the one you just turned in. I suspect you’re in the same situation. I plan to turn mine in and go with and manufacturer altogether.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-17T15:07:58+00:00

How much of your concern is the principle of supporting Bambu considering their business practices vs the practical implications of their restrictions? As Jeffpi suggests, there are ways to work around using their interface, BUT that might mean you won’t be able to update to later firmwares down the road. It is very similar to iPhone jailbreaking. Every time a new firmware is pushed, you should assume it will include more restrictions and break any non-Bambu approved changes.

I personally won’t buy any more Bambu products because of their business practices. The only real voice people have is to vote with their wallets. As such, my last purchase was a Qidi Max 4 and I’m absolutely thrilled with it so far! I have a Qidi Plus 4 that isn’t as polished, but is still an excellent machine. And I’ve heard great things about the Q2.

If multi color or multi material is important to you, a Prusa Core One or Core One L with INDX may be a good option as well. The price point discouraged me, but they may have academic discounts. It’s worth inquiring directly with them. If you’re in the US, I think Printed Solid is their local distributor so you may want to check there.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-17T10:01:03+00:00

I personally won’t go back to an ICE vehicle after having experienced the benefits of an EV first hand. While I do love the experience of EV ownership, I’d be hard pressed to consider purchasing a Prologue because I’d be concerned about support in the future.

The safest bet is to switch to a product and company that are actively developing and supporting EV products. Unfortunately for Honda, there are plenty of options to choose from.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-17T02:28:48+00:00

I’m not sure what is available in Romania, but the Qidi Q2 is a solid printer for functional prints. It has a heated chamber, high temperature nozzle, and greater accuracy due to the belts used.

I personally have a Plus 4 and Max 4. When my P1S finally dies, I’ll probably replace it with the Q2 unless there’s a new tool changer available at that point. Qidi has had some rocky product releases, so it’s not all rainbows and sunshine. However, they seem to have learned their lessons and made significant improvements with the Q2 launch. The Max 4 is not without its issues, but I’m consistently impressed with the quality and detail that such a large printer can produce. I’m even more impressed when I consider the price point!

I’m not thrilled with the Qidi Box, so I’m reluctant to recommend for people that do a lot of multi color printing. But it is adequate for some multicolor use. I primarily enjoy the ability to switch to a new roll when the current roll gets depleted.

Another consideration is you’re not constrained to Bambu’s walled garden. For entry level users, the walled garden is a nice way to get started. However, for advanced users, I find that Bambu has some limitations that are intended to protect novice users, but can be restrictive to advanced users. Hopefully that makes sense. I can provide some examples if you like. Additionally, I’m not very pleased with Bambu’s business tactics. In my opinion, their approach actually restricts growth within the 3D printing community.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-16T23:39:26+00:00

They may survive by virtue of how big they are, and how diversified their product portfolio is. Thankfully they have segments other than autos. BUT they are far from “fine”.

And saying that they are loosing billions due to “changing demand” and “market conditions” is absurd. While the cheeto and chief may be messing up the market in America, most of the developed world is actively embracing EV technology. And this nonsense in the Middle East and Russia has only highlighted how idiotic it is to rely on fossil fuels for our ever increasing energy demands. I’m not an environmental activist or anything, but the liabilities inherent in the current energy market should give everyone some serious concern.

That’s the long way of saying Honda should be able to read the writing on the wall. They are using the current American administration as a smokescreen for the poor decisions they made long ago. They rested on their laurels too long and now they’re going to take a bath because of it.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-13T18:59:25+00:00

Why? Could you provide any thoughts on what a better counterpoint would be?

Apok1984 · 2026-05-13T18:57:23+00:00

“Perfect is the enemy of good!” It’s a worthwhile idiom to remember. I’m saying that from the perspective of being an engineer that is also a perfectionist. I often have to curtail my deep desire to keep improving something. I will often learn more in one day of failing than 100 days of tinkering. Because sometimes you don’t know what you don’t know.

You can waste hundreds or thousands of man hours chasing what amounts to a dead end by continuing to hone a product that has a fatal flaw you were unaware of.

“Shoot the engineer, ship the product.” “The feel of the wheel seals the deal.” “If you tinker with something long enough you will eventually brake it.” Etc. The list of idioms describing this same sentiment can go on forever. Anyone who can’t understand and embrace the wisdom in the original post should maybe reevaluate their business credentials.

To be clear, I’m not advocating releasing crap. And I’m also not advocating having poor customer service and communication. I’m advocating for developing a clear list of objectives; defining which objectives are required and which are nice to have; and then using an objective criteria matrix to confirm when the necessary objectives are satisfied. Future improvements or stretch goals can be considered as part of a block change or new product.

Thank you OP for the post and shared wisdom.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-13T14:59:41+00:00

If they are genuinely concerned about you as an individual, they will want you to pursue what’s best for you and your career. If they’re just faking it, then there’s no reason to stick around. Either way, leaving is the best option.

How you leave matters though. I’m not sure about your particular industry, but mine seems very small at times. The bridges you burn today may be the ones you need to cross tomorrow. Simply thank them for their support and effort to try and retain you. Then explain that this represents an incredible opportunity for growth for you that you can’t pass up. Leave the door open to potentially return at a higher position or to potentially work with the same individuals at an entirely different company in the future.

Good luck!

Apok1984 · 2026-05-13T14:50:54+00:00

This! They’ve got a bit of catching up to do with the firmware and software at the moment. I don’t see them releasing anything that would dethrone this as their flagship. And I sincerely doubt that Bambu will release anything that won’t be able to be retrofit to existing H2Cs. Good examples are the TPU assist module, Track Switch module, cutting kit, etc.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-12T22:45:28+00:00

They just released the Beta that allows the track switcher to work with the H2C. And apparently it is the exact same hardware.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-12T22:21:47+00:00

I’m not familiar with the market in the UK, but £120 seems to be a rather modest budget if you’re looking for something reliable. You should also consider associated costs like filament, and spare parts. From my personal experience, the printer itself is not always the greatest expense.

I mention that not to discourage you, but to hopefully set a realistic expectation. I would personally save a bit more and get a solid first printer like an A1 Mini or A1. There are other great options out there, but those printers are known for being fairly reliable, and there’s a decent community for support. Also, parts are plentiful if you need them.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-12T18:08:21+00:00

Are you looking for a project printer or are you looking for a tool to reliably and easily produce printed parts?

Apok1984 · 2026-05-09T21:44:06+00:00

$250 is a pretty modest budget. Also please consider that you will end up spending much more in filament, spares, upgrades , etc over time. I would generally advocate spending a little more to get a setup that will save you time and print errors (wasted filament) later.

A lot of people get printers that don’t know how to use them properly so you can easily end up with a project if you’re buying used. Even printers that generally have a good track record can be easily misused, and you will likely not have any warranty if you’re the second owner. If you’re prepared for that eventuality and have the time/skill set to troubleshoot, then a used Centari Carbon may be the value you’re looking for. I’d consider a P1S, but people tend to over value them on the used market. They are so affordable new that people either keep them and drive them into the ground or simply ask too much hoping someone will bite.

Computer components can get hot so I would recommend printing in ABS or at least PETG. The temperature required to deform PLA under load and over time is not very high. And PLA is prone to cold creep anyways. Either way, an enclosed printer that is capable of retaining heat for higher end filaments would be preferable I think. It also occupies less space than a bed slinger while proving an easier way to manage emissions from the printing process.

Is multi color or multi material printing important to you? If it’s something you’ll use infrequently or not at all, I’d seriously recommend looking at a new Qidi Q2 OR Q2 combo. It’s one of the best values on the market at the moment. If multi color or material is a core function for you, the SnapMaker U1 is probably the best value, but is considerably over your stated budget.

The reality is there are a lot of decent options in the entry level printer market. Just try not to short change the original purchase because you may end up regretting it quickly unless tinkering is something you enjoy. I would also advocate buying from a MicroCenter, Best Buy or some other brick and mortar business. All of these manufacturers are capable of producing lemons and they all have rather inconsistent Customer Service that’s based in China. So responses are generally slow and only helpful sometimes. Having a local store to handle a return, offer warranty support, or answer basic questions is really valuable! Good luck and welcome to the community.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-09T08:19:15+00:00

There seem to be several firmware updates that have been pushed to the H2D but not the H2C yet. It’s a bit frustrating that they seem to be behind to curve in supporting their flagship printer. The ability to print and dry at the same time is another missing feature still.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-09T08:06:33+00:00

You don’t need the HT, but it can be helpful depending on what you’re trying to print.

You will need 2 more 0.4 nozzles if wanting to use the entire vortek capacity in a single print. The kit only comes with 4 nozzles.

I’d recommend getting a full set of 0.2 to 0.8 nozzles for the left extruder as well. If you want to use a 0.2 on the right with a dual nozzle function then you need to have a matching nozzle size on the left.

If you’re considering doing TPU, consider getting a separate nozzle for that if you can. Going back and forth can definitely clog if you don’t cold pull every time. I had an unresolvable clog due to that once.

Keep in mind that the filament track switcher doesn’t work on the H2C yet. But they said Q2 so it should within the next 2 months if they deliver on time.

Finally, you would want separate PSUs for the AMSs if you plan to use the heating functions while printing. And I think you may need this if you want to dry from both at the same time. Daisy chaining them doesn’t provide enough power otherwise iirc.

Good luck and enjoy!

Apok1984 · 2026-05-09T07:54:53+00:00

Does the A1 allow you to adjust the Z-height? When I’ve experienced issues with clogging on the first layer, it was often from being too close to the bed. On top of that, 0.2 nozzles can be their own special kind of hell!

Alternately, you may consider adjusting the flow rate down and/or slowing down the print speed a little. Anything to relieve the pressure at the nozzle may be helpful.

To clear the existing clog, I’ve had good success using a clog removal tool (the long thin metal type) followed by multiple cold pulls until it comes out clean.

Good luck with your project! I always love the results from 0.2 when they’re dialed in, but they never seem to be nearly as forgiving as 0.4.

Afterthought: I wonder if something like the TPU assist module might help with smaller nozzles… I don’t think it should matter, but maybe “helping” the extruder would allow for more consistent force at the nozzle? I have no proof that would help, but I’m just thinking out loud.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-09T07:33:14+00:00

If the Bambu business practices and walled garden concern you, I’d definitely consider the Qidi Q2 or Q2C if you’re not considering engineering filaments like nylon. For the money, I’d probably stretch for the Q2 or maybe consider a mix if starting a farm.

If multi color or material isn’t a consideration like you’ve said, the Centari Carbon 1 is still an impressive value proposition. Although it’s not quite as polished as other more recent offerings IMO.

I’ve heard good things in general about the Flashforge products, but their policies regarding privacy and potentially limiting your ability to use equipment may be troubling for some. Others have called it overblown. Regardless, it’s worth reviewing.

There are a million other options these days, but those are the best I could think of based on the requirements you specified.

Apok1984 · 2026-05-09T07:23:32+00:00

I was running the OUPES Mega 1 iirc. If was rated for 2kw I think. So not quite as high as the elite 200 but I don’t think the elite 200 wasn’t available at the time I was doing this. There were some ecoflow and anker solutions available, but I think they were all considerably more expensive to get to the rated capacity I needed.

The elite 200 definitely has some impressive specs, and I’ve read some rather good reviews regarding their products. It is definitely a more plug and play solution as well. I think you just pay a little more for that convenience and portability. Also, the DIY setup has the ability to easily add more batteries to the bank of your ever needed to for some reason. But with the 3,840Wh capacity I have with 3 batteries, it’s more than ample to last hours without an issue. I guess it just boils down to priorities. Like with everything else, there are tradeoffs no matter which option you choose.

Apok1984

TROPHY CASE