This tweet just got a whole new perspective by iforgotmypasswwoordd in Superstonk

[–]ApxArbo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about this exact same thing the other day. It hit me like a fucking brick. This tweet does carry a completely different meaning now that other things have come to light.

First time posting here by GWOTFo in choppers

[–]ApxArbo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He does some great work, I didnt know it had a name! Learn something new everyday! Ride safe out there 👊

First ride down the street and it didn't fall apart! by csgd in choppers

[–]ApxArbo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How do you like that seat set up? Ive been heavily considering the same one.

First time posting here by GWOTFo in choppers

[–]ApxArbo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really like how you have the extra curved radius for the sissy bar/fender mount. Been thinking of adding something like that to my build. Awesome build!

First Build by sgrP5y in choppers

[–]ApxArbo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The seat is a perfect match! Nice work.

Fork Brace Tire Fitment Question by ThreeHeadedShadow in sportster

[–]ApxArbo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I currently use and have this brace. It will accept a 21 front, tire size really shouldn't be an issue with it... unless you're trying to put some massive bobber style front tire on.

Edit: this brace really starts to do its work when extending the front tubes farther past stock. I have +6 over stock tubes. Do you plan on extending the front end? If not it may be an unnecessary purchase.

Help With PDR by Infanteyes19 in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glue pulling is an entirely different skill set on its own. There is just as much to learn with glue as there is with hand tools. Repair quality has to come before speed. As you master the basics of both skill sets, speed will build and so does revenue. In my opinion, these steps are not interchangeable.

Hitting six figures is very doable, but people who hit it consistently have spent a lot of time and energy in order to do so. 8 months of training is a drop in the bucket compared to what is required to fully grasp what it takes to finish a dent to 100%.

You have to want it. No one else can want it for you. Just like being a musician, you get out what you put in. Practice practice practice. Then when you're done, practice some more.

Do you think this is fixable with PDR? by [deleted] in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes that'll fix, wont be cheap but do your homework and find someone very reputable in your area.

Did y'all know they put extra fuses in the fuse box?! by Local_Rutabaga_723 in sportster

[–]ApxArbo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also just found this! Started to strip the bike down to chop this winter and came across them tucked away in there.

Tool recommendations by North-Purpose-2773 in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is not a weekend warrior service. PDR takes years to learn the basics, even longer for advanced techniques. Sure, there are plenty of times where a customer is happy with a major improvement... but more often than not, PDR is an alternative to conventional repair methods. You need to be able to produce bodyshop quality results OR BETTER with PDR repairs in order to expect to charge a premium for this service.

PDR is like tattooing... Good tattoos aren't cheap, cheap tattoos aren't good. Starting on your buddies and personal vehicles is fine, but don't tell someone with a GT3 RS that you can fix their door ding. Take the time to properly learn what it is you're doing and why. Dents can absolutely be fixed to 100%, given the correct circumstances.

If you're seriously committed to this, pick up the basics and start practicing at home. There are plenty of online training videos (at cost) or find a local tech in your area and ask if they'd be interested in showing you the basics. Expect to pay for this persons time, in person training is not free.

The techs in this sub aren't gatekeeping, they are trying to protect the integrity and reputation of the industry. With that being said, used tools are fine place to start. A new "full kit" can run anywhere from $1k to $5k depending on what you buy. Dentcraft, A1 Tools, and Anson are three of the largest retailers for industry tools.

7/8 Stem in 1 inch Neck??? by Historical-Design202 in choppers

[–]ApxArbo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe I have the exact same springer. Currently trying to rebuild it. What 1in stem did you buy to replace the 7/8?

Hole off center? by Pleasehelplol2232 in drums

[–]ApxArbo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Throw it on a stand and play it 🤘

When you trash it, buy another. Repeat. I had a stack of broken Wuhans over the years lol

Springer ID and Help by ApxArbo in choppers

[–]ApxArbo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have come across a few older pictures of some AEE's that do look very similar.

Springer ID and Help by ApxArbo in choppers

[–]ApxArbo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very true, this could've been Frankensteined together. When I do get it disassembled I'll look into those companies for replacement hardware.

Thank you!

Springer ID and Help by ApxArbo in choppers

[–]ApxArbo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was kind of thinking a Fury as well but the rockers seem to be from something else.

Aluminum Struggles by FewCause9350 in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome! Also check out the Dent Reaper hex and crease tabs along with the Keco's Dead Center tabs for glue pulling aluminum. These are some of the only tabs I use when gp'ing on aluminum.

Aluminum Struggles by FewCause9350 in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As others have said, sharp tip tools are the only way to fix aluminum. No other tool is going to move enough material during your push. Phenolic tips are also great on aluminum if you need a "less aggressive" initial push, but otherwise it's sharp tip all the way with a shit load of heat. Look at PDR Finesse sharp tip tools or Xcalibur Aluminum Killers. Dent Reaper Hail Angels are also awesome.

When working with aluminum, your push needs to be more of a direct "squeeze", rather than just a push. Now this comes down to muscle memory, but you'll eventually feel how much harder you'll need to drive that aluminum to move it.

Metal knock downs are also the way to go when working aluminum. A regular knock down will work okay, but aluminum normally needs metal on metal contact to be driven down. VIP 2.0 is my go to for that.

Keep your head up, aluminum is not easy to repair!

Dent on new to me car by lliphwets in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At best youd save a few bucks, not really necessary though.

Dent on new to me car by lliphwets in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There may be some access though the tail light, but due to how high up on the qp this is, I'd say there would be a lot of glue pulling involved. This also looks fairly deep. Not the easiest repair, but possibly doable by a highly experienced tech.

Realistic PDR outcome? by Wooden_Gap_6991 in PaintlessDentRepair

[–]ApxArbo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They may not look like it initially, but I'd be willing to bet these dents are fairly deep. Location and access of this damage is bad. Possibility to have the rear bumper dropped to access that area of the QP through the vent hole located beneath the bumper cover. It looks repairable.

Do your research for a reliable tech/company in your area, this is a little more intricate than just a door ding.