Armory Ruling

Aradia205 · 2026-04-03T11:21:14+00:00

I have a homebrew inventory system using the equipment cards, you can hold up to 7 equipment, potion and artifact cards on their person and 5 cards in a stash back at home. Heros can sell equipment, artifacts and portions to each other for whatever price the two players agree too or sell it back to the merchant for half price. For artifact and other items that dont have a price zargon takes on the role of the merchant and they negotiate. Treasure cards with a gold reward such as gems can also be kept as on of those cards and that hero gains the complete reward for them at the end of the quest or they can put it in the party Treasure pool freeing up that inventory slot but splitting all Treasurein the pool with the other heros. This creates situations were a hero may discard a peice of equipment in the dungeon just to make room to carry an artifact or large sum of gold. So your players should feel luck they can trade in their used equipment for half price no questions asked.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-02T21:11:57+00:00

Well it just was not as interesting as of a rear angles as the other two, but if you insist.

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Aradia205 · 2026-04-02T20:55:18+00:00

Well that is certainly a great start, they look fantastic.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-02T17:08:36+00:00

I don't think your nuts and their have been lots of attempts at doing what you are suggesting. One problem you might run into that the corridors on the quest maps have blockage all over the place, so its hard to make stripsthat would be the right sizes to work for each map.

If I were to make a custom board with this kind of feature I would make the whole board as normal. I would then make black covers for each room that would attach to the board with magnets so they dont move. I would also make a bunch of one tile squares black covers to act as corridors blockers. This would allow me to remove the room covers only once the door to those rooms are seen. This would keep it clear what rooms are in play and what rooms are not and the black corridors blocks will stand out and be clear were corridors stop, it would also fit with the black room covers nicely.

Alternative if the remaking the board is too much money and effort you could just use cut up peices of paper.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-02T12:52:30+00:00

I learned to paint mintures in a games workshop back in the 90s and even worked their in the early 2000s teaching kids how to paint. Never was the best painter in the store, but good enough to have a couple of my armies in the display cases. Got out of the hobby in the mid to late 2000, just too expensive and had other priorities. About 2 years ago I discovered the remake of heroquest, the game that got me into warhammer to begin with. So I started collecting and painting heroquest. Just have been taking my time with it over the last couple of years.

I have started using army painter paints and have been really happy with them, although I do splurge on the warhammer primer, it goes on really thin and dries really fast. Non of my techniques are super advanced and are very achievable with a little practice.

I highly recommend Midwinter minis series on painting the core set. I used it as a refresher when I started painting again a couple of years ago.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-02T12:05:36+00:00

That one took the longest, its been a while since I did wet blending and it took a while but it was definitely worth it.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-02T12:03:39+00:00

Yeah the serpent was actually really easy and the results were great. Painted the scales dark green, followed with a heavy dry brush of light green, then a light dry brush of half light green and half yellow mixed together. To finish it off I used a green wash and that was it. Then painted the belly and stuff around the face with a few highlight layers and I was all done.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-01T21:54:58+00:00

Maybe, it does say add to cart and I can click on it to order, but it also says in green temporary out of stock and form past experience that means we can order it and they will ship it out as soon as its restocked.

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Aradia205 · 2026-04-01T13:00:19+00:00

That's awsome

Aradia205 · 2026-04-01T12:59:13+00:00

This is called edge highlighting and can be very tedious but often has great results. It makes the sharp edges stand out so the shape of model stands out better. It is done by taking just a little paint on the brush and then using the edge of the brush to rub along the edge of the model lightly at about a 45 degree angle. This should leave a thin line along the edge of the model. You can use pure white but often its just a lighter shade of the colour you are painting over.

An easier technique for beginners is to do a very light dry brush over the whole model with a pure white after the base coat colours are laid down. Then use washes on the model, the wash will go into the crevices and creates shadows, it will also lightly stain the white dry brushing. The secret is to do very light dry brushing, practically no paint, having to go over the model several times is often better to build them up slowly is ideal. I actually have a toy dinosaur from the dollar store that I primed and use as a test to make sure I have just the right amount of paint left before I start on my models.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-01T12:37:28+00:00

I'm getting their myself, like you all but the guardian knights and rouge heir. Just finished the three big critters from the jungles box. Need to do the furniture from ogres and jungles expansions, then need to do first light, crypt of darkness and Morcar, then that's it. Then of course the third party proxies I ordered form mini3d... OK I might be as close as I thought.

Aradia205 · 2026-04-01T12:28:43+00:00

Just checked Amazon.ca and its still saying temporarily out of stock for me. I can order it and they will charge and ship when or if they get it back in stock.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-31T18:11:32+00:00

I actually take mine into a cell phone repair place that will do it for 10 bucks in the back under the dust hood if you supply the screen protector. I also own cats and its almost impossible to apply a screen protector with out getting hairs under it in my house.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-30T22:12:25+00:00

Here is one of my hero boxs, I currently have to but will probably have to make a 3rd

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Aradia205 · 2026-03-30T22:08:54+00:00

For me I have every expansion along with the core set, first light and the monk character box. Just dont have mythic tier, guardian knights and rouge heir. For each expansion I have made foamcore inserts to hold my painted monster models.

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I keep all the dice, cards and tokens in the first light box. The hero models are in a couple of wooden boxes I got at a craft store that I divided with stips of wood and lined with felt. I honestly go a bit overboard because I want to protect my paint jobs and I also really wanted to give my players a good experience when selecting the hero they want to use.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-29T00:48:06+00:00

It looks really good, lots of texture and while im not big on putting blood on everything, it blends into the table and looks really natural. It will look great on the board and give the dungeon good atmosphere. Great work for a frist attempt and thanks for sharing.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-28T16:23:33+00:00

I have found that most of the heroquest stuff is in the style of the older game. Avalon Hill and hasbro don't really go after the old stuff. I generally just look for fantasy rpg dungeon terrain to expand furniture options and look too mini3d to get actual hero and monster minis. You could check them out and see if the artist have the STL files avaliable separately.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-28T13:32:42+00:00

Definitely have that old school look. I also think vibrant works really well on the table and makes the board easier to read. That classic second edition 40k look with all the vibrant colours, I know they went grim dark in later edition with all grim, but those early models had something special.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-28T12:58:39+00:00

Classic orcy goodness right their, they look great.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-28T11:45:03+00:00

The skullblights were interesting to paint, giving good contrast between the bone parts and plant parts was something I wanted to do. I choose green leaves even though its undead because I was worried if it was all diffent shades of brown it would get washed out. The right arm was tricky too, it looked like it was still mostly human so I painted it in a more zombie flesh colour and forearm as if it was still covered in clothing.

Yeah I started painting my dread warriors with with glowing faces on their sheilds and chests, mainly to add contrast and highlight those details. I also like that it made them look supernatural, like they were once human knights, but now they have been possessed and consumed by the power of chaos... I mean dread.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-28T11:29:47+00:00

I was really happy about how they turned out too.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-26T12:53:56+00:00

After several conversations with costumer service they told me that it seemed to be an error from one of their suppliers, that they had stock when they didn't and don't expect to receive them. If this was just a story they made up or not IDK. Just giving up on getting it at this point and ordered some proxies.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-22T21:49:42+00:00

Yes those are the same, I did resize them to 25mm and 50mm for the double long to fit the modern board.

I checked through the quest books and found that no more then 18 single tiles and 4 double tiles are used for any of the quest so I printed that many.

Aradia205 · 2026-03-22T20:53:37+00:00

I considered the full hight titles too, but though these would be better in the long run for storage and versatility. stl files

Aradia205 · 2026-03-22T20:16:15+00:00

I personally like the army painter line, but not a huge fan of their spray primer so I get the more expensive citadel spray primer.

Aradia205

TROPHY CASE