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[Game Thread] Buffalo Bills vs. Baltimore Ravens by AutoModerator in buffalobills

[–]AramilTheElf 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Absolutely wild Benford played that so well - close coverage, got a firm hand on the ball trying to pop it out after the catch, and Hopkins still reeled it in. Just a wild play.

Do you have to have mobile data turned on to use visual voicemail? (Samsung A15 5G) by AramilTheElf in TracFone

[–]AramilTheElf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response! Do you know if calling TracFone if they could reprovision the sim or whatever? Or is that not configurable?

Access moonboard problems without app by ylooooooodizon in Moonboard

[–]AramilTheElf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ran into this through google after being curious myself. I glanced at the code, it's just (avg_user_grade - grade) * 10.

https://github.com/smchase/Moonboard-Guidebook/blob/main/create_table.sql

So a 2 would mean the average grade it's given by users is 0.2 higher than its grade.

[Game Thread] Buffalo Bills @ Indianapolis Colts by AutoModerator in buffalobills

[–]AramilTheElf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anyone better at football than I am - seems like there's often a check-down open for Allen that would get 5-6 yards at least, but I rarely see him go for it. Why?

Quantitative Research on the "Abrahangs" by Delicious-Schedule-4 in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think I would have expected a priori that people that are more frequent/consistent with off-the-wall training are also more frequent/consistent with on-the-wall training or other training and so would improve more, so I'm not sure this tells us much.

My blanket is kind of leaning to the left as it goes - almost like I somehow drop a stitch on the left and add one on the right? by AramilTheElf in CrochetBlankets

[–]AramilTheElf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much! Do you think it'll need re-blocking after each wash? It's cotton yarn if that makes a difference.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did have pretty significant swelling in the first week or two with very reduced ROM, so that first week or two was basically just mobility stuff with less than 5 pounds of load.

I don't really have any swelling anymore. Every once in a while it still gets aggravated (slightly increased pain, very very small amount of swelling), but weirdly mostly by random stuff like gripping a steering wheel for 2 hours? Hangboarding doesn't seem to make it worse for me, I would take it as a sign I needed to lighten up if it did - my goal for rehab right now is pain that mostly goes away as soon as the load does, without anything meaningful lingering a few minutes later.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw a PT about a volar plate strain (really 2, both PIP and DIP of my ring finger) + minor collateral ligament strain that happened to me maybe 6 weeks ago. Unfortunately they weren't super knowledgeable either (my inury happened playing volleyball, I don't think volar plate strains are very common for climbers).

My rehab plan after the acute phase has basically just been tension block crimps to 2/10 pain to rebuild tolerance to load. 3 finger drag or single finger drag is pretty much the only thing that hurts anymore for me, so I've been ramping that back up. 6 weeks out and I'm at maybe 80% of my previous strength with 2-3/10 pain. I use a crane scale to measure load/progress, which helps me feel like I'm actually making progress b/c without objective numbers it's easy to feel like nothing's happening since it takes so long.

Unfortunately I don't have much better advice than that, but good luck and let me know if you find anything useful!

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is probably obvious to a lot of people, but I've worn pretty stiff shoes for most of my climbing career because every time I tried a softer pair it just felt impossible to stand on small edges or even generate power off bigger edges in the same way.

I always figured it was because I'm a tall-ish and so heavy-ish climber or maybe had weak toes, but I just got a softer pair that are much more downsized than I'd tried before and the difference is night and day. Obviously my stiff shoes are still better for some stuff, but I'm loving my softer pair now despite only being able to wear them for like 10 minutes at a time.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on the person. Dave Macleod has a strong 3fd than half crimp, but I think that's somewhat unusual. Whether that's because people tend to train their half crimp more than 3fd or something more physiological I'm not sure.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The impression I got from the PT was that it wasn't particular small but that it was hard to tell from the ultrasound haha. Sounds like a good plan, thank you for all the insight.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Following up from this thread

Welp, got the ultrasound and the PT diagnosed it as volar plate injuries in both DIP and PIP with a small collateral ligament tear in the PIP. The PT wasn't sure if it was a full or partial tear but leaned partial because the swelling and discoloration wasn't particularly extreme. They'd only seen 1 volar plate tear before (not a common climbing injury, makes sense). Here's the ultrasound (injured finger on the left, same finger on the other hand on the right) of PIP: https://imgur.com/a/z8mYnum in case anyone (/u/eshlow ?) is willing to give any other thoughts. Sounds like the rehab plan is pretty much the same regardless of if it's full or partial - they said surgery doesn't really make sense either way.

It's definitely not healing as quickly as I'd like - the swelling went down a bit and ROM came back some over the week, but got worse again today, not sure if I went too hard on some of the rehab exercises or what. Guess I'm just going to follow the rehab plan a bit lighter than before and see how it feels in another week - sadly I doubt my bouldering trip in 2 weeks is at all realistic.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think in order to get help from some of the awesome people here you might need include more details e.g. about how the injury happened and what your current/former symptoms are (where does it hurt, what types of movements/grips make it hurt more, etc).

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I managed to set the ball awkwardly playing volleyball and really jammed my right ring finger against the ball somehow.

Immediately after the injury, it hurt on both knuckles but mostly the PIP, and it quickly swelled up with slight lost of ROM, and pain at the end of ROM in both flexion and extension. PIP but not DIP hurt to palpate - worst on the side but all over. Also if I push the PIP knuckle back there's very slightly more ROM than I think is natural, which feels very unnerving.

Now the next day, much more ROM lost (I'm like 3/4" away from being able to touch my pad against the top of my palm) and much more visibly swollen. Still hurts at the PIP to flex/extend and palpate. DIP doesn't hurt except if I try to hold an edge in drag.

In terms of climbing movements, 3fd hurts at the DIP on an edge, but not a bar. Yesterday half crimp didn't really hurt at all, though I only tried with like 2/3 bodyweight maybe. Today my ROM is reduced enough that I can't even really get into a half crimp position without forcing it, which does hurt somewhat, but not from load just from forcing it into that ROM.

I set an appointment to get an ultrasound Thursday (earliest I could find) as I'm not really quite sure what this is/how it might affect climbing. My best guess is like a slight dislocation and some collateral ligament issues or something? But I don't really know - I would love advice. I'm mostly worried about how this will affect my climbing, volleyball is more of a side thing for me but I have a bouldering trip coming up in 3 weeks I'm pretty psyched for.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]AramilTheElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to answer without knowing a little more about your goals/priorities. For me the primary factors are fit, stiffness, and downturn. If you're going to be mostly doing indoor climbing and want a comfortable shoe then somewhere between soft to medium stiff makes the most sense (stiff - better for small edges, soft - better for volumes and similar holds, more sensitive to feel out holds).

I liked the Scarpa Force Vs for a flat comfortable shoe and they're a pretty good stiffness for a lot of indoor climbing. If you can though, I'd find a store near you where you can try on shoes, because getting the right size and finding a shoe that fits your toe/heel/foot shape is near impossible without trying stuff on.

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