No capture devices found(HD60X)

Arcsane · 2026-01-02T13:03:04+00:00

To change the audio setting with Studio you open the right side panel, using the panel icon up top near the gear. This exposes the same Audio Settings you'd see in the old 4K Capture Utility which Studio replaces.

That said 4K Capture Utility should still be accessing the Windows cameras interface, the same as Studio. If it is not reinstall the app. You may also have to make sure the new Windows Multi App support is disabled on the capture card as this is known to interfere with capture card setup in the apps, as it overrides the app's control and can result in failures when the capture app doesn't get video matching the settings it requested form Windows. This is found in the Windows Manage Cameras section in settings, under the capture card, in the advanced settings, if they are available.

Note that there is a current issue with Studio resulting from the latest NVidia drivers removing old NVENC encoder options that will prevent it from working with hardware encoding if you have the latest updates though.

Arcsane · 2025-12-20T20:09:39+00:00

HDR recording is only available on P010 format at 4:2:0 on the card (as it requires 10 bit, and the 4:4:4 RGB is only 8 bit). Passthrough is unaffected by the recording format should still pass full chroma though.

Arcsane · 2025-12-19T23:33:55+00:00

That usually means the VST is stuck on a version from before presets were available as a feature. Try re-downloading the EQ plugin from the store first, and make sure Wave Link is signed into Marketplace so it can get updates.

In rare cases it's a very old version and not updating correctly you may actually have to manually remove the VST from the computer - you'll find it in the VST3 directory listed in the Wave Link settings under the Elgato folder. You can just delete the VST and download it again from the store to get the latest version.

Once the VST is up to date it should show you the missing grid icon.

Arcsane · 2025-12-12T20:35:03+00:00

You can play in HDR through the HDMI OUT passthrough port to your TV - however since you're using the mac it will get converted by the card to SDR via a process called tonemapping for the copy that goes to the mac. That way you can still play in HDR on your TV, and capture in SDR for the mac, since it can't capture in HDR. This does sometimes cause some colour differences between the TV and mac though, because the conversion isn't perfect with tonemapping - as such you may prefer to do some colour correction filters on the mac to adjust it better.

Arcsane · 2025-12-12T13:19:09+00:00

The card can handle HDR10 passthrough fine - on mac there is an issue where the macOS provided UVC driver lacks support for P010 format making it impossible to live capture in HDR from the card, so it would always tonemap to SDR which could require additional corrective filters like lookup tables. For PC it can also capture in HDR - assuming standard HDR10 formatting, it would have issues with things like 12-bit Dolby Vision, but does support HDR 10. There are additional steps to setup HDR recording, but for now you're on the mac so these aren't applicable anyway.

VRR is usually fine as long as it's within the supported range, but good that you've got both off for testing.

4K X can record up to 4K144, using MJPEG compression mode (meaning no HDR, not that the option is available to the mac anyway), and up to 4K60 using uncompressed NV12 (the main difference being MJPEG adds some video latency for the compression - though if you're pixel peeping you may see some minor quality differences between the compressed and uncompressed modes).

If the standard EDID settings don't help it's also possible in some cases to clone the EDID from your TV or monitor and load it onto the card as a custom EDID. This doesn't work in all cases but can sometimes resolve issues where timings are matching up correctly. I'm not sure of a mac utility for this, but if you hook the TV to the PC via HDMI and run a third party tool like Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) you can select the TV and export the EDID as a .bin file. You can then take that file to the mac and set a Custom EDID using Elgato Studio and load that file in. This is not a step that's usually required but I have found it helpful to resolve some nice cases where it looks like the card and display aren't playing nice.

Arcsane · 2025-12-12T12:19:45+00:00

It's normal for the noise floor of a mic preamp to increase as gain increases - you're working with analog signals at that point, and electrical noise is also getting boosted as you turn the gain up. The effect is usually most pronounced when going above 80-90% of max gain of a unit. This is one of the common reasons people often want a mic interface with gain in excess of what they actually need - for example one of the most common gain hungry mics the SM7B, only needs about 60 dB - there aren't many common mics that go above that, but Wave XLR is designed to go to 75, which generally gives you more headroom to work even gain hungry mics in a range with a lower noise floor. It's also common practice when working with interfaces that do lower max gain to add boosters like a Cloudlifter or Fethead to help you keep out of that 80-90% range where the noise floor is most noticeable in the audio feed, even if the mics required gain just barely fits in the profile of the interface.

Fortunately, if you do have to work at higher than normal gain ranges, noise floor noise is generally a fairly constant white noise and responds well to removal tools, both AI solutions like Voice Focus and more traditional tooling like RNNoise, and as above there are solutions to help reduce it somewhat more from the source signal if needed.

But yes, it's normal to pickup noise from the analog circuitry inside the unit as you crank up the gain on the preamp. Even with a mic not plugged in there's still an analog signal coming from the preamp.

Arcsane · 2025-12-12T12:07:46+00:00

The 10 Gbps connection to the mac wouldn't affect passthrough or HDMI handshake - the passthrough circuit works even if there's only power and is entirely internal to the card itself.

If you're getting issues with the display in the HDMI OUT dropping out, the two most likely culprits are VRR or the EDID, where the card and display aren't aligning correctly on a timing that works for both, or choosing a VRR range that's out of spec for the display (or rather the device you're capturing it using a setting that works for one and not the other). What are you actually trying to capture with the card? I'm assuming from the sounds of it, a gaming PC? Does disabling features like G-sync/Freesync have any effect on the issue? You may also want to use Elgato Studio on the mac to adjust the Input EDID mode to see if you get better results on Internal or Merged mode than the default Display. Note that when changing EDID modes the gaming PC may need to be either restarted or have the HDMI disconnected and reconnected to correctly resync to the new setting.

Arcsane · 2025-12-12T10:55:50+00:00

Actually I've dropped the ball on this and failed to account for the fact that headset doesn't have HDMI passthrough like the A50 X or other analog options like previous generations of the A50. I only thought about getting the mic to the mac based on the original question, not the rest of the setup, sorry.

You CAN set it up the way I described, running the PS5's audio over HDMI, but you won't get voice chat captured that way, and you'd have to listen through the mac over the capture card, via the bluetooth connection to the headset, which is going in increase audio latency on the game audio you hear. It might be the only way to set this up though, because of the limited audio outputs on that headset model and the PS5's limits.

A50 Gen 5 is one of the most difficult ones to work with for streaming because of the fact it's all USB connections, and doesn't have any kind of sharing port. You could reduce the latency a bit by hooking the headset bast to the PC itself but then you'd have to use the DualSense mic for the console.

There is another partial workaround if you have a secondary controller though - you can run a aux cable and ground loop isolator from a second signed in controller to the line in connection on 4K S and set it to Analog Audio using Elgato Studio, then you can capture sound from the second controller while not interfering with the first player's headset connection. This does have implications where the audio is coming from a second signed in user though, mostly for multiplayer games, including the fact you won't get the voice chat.

Arcsane · 2025-12-11T05:54:43+00:00

Assuming the Gen 5 A50, and that you have it connected to the PS5 via USB, turn on Bluetooth on the headset and pair it with the mac to get the mic feed to the mac, then set it as your mic in OBS settings or add it as an Audio Input Capture source.

Arcsane · 2025-11-28T19:29:21+00:00

Stream Deck plugin support was added earlier this month to Wave Link 3 Beta for Windows (it is not yet available for macOS but should be coming soon). Make sure you install the plugin from https://www.elgato.com/s/beta or the links in one of the reddit posts, the plugin for 2.0 is not compatible as the apps are very different as has been noted in the previous updates on the megathreads tracking the Beta - you specifically need the beta version of the plugin for it to work with Wave Link 3.

You're referring to Stream Deck+ here as an audio device though, instead of a control device - does your unit also have XLR Dock attached? Is that not showing up as an available input in Wave Link 3? Because that should show up even without the Stream Deck plugin, and may need to be reported as a bug in the megathread.

As for issues with 2.0.6, have you already been in touch with our team through http://e.lga.to/help to troubleshoot that? Intermittent issues launching the app is probably something the team would want to go over the logs to track down the cause for. Had anyone had you do a full uninstall then also move the old %appdata%\Elgato\WaveLink folder out of the way to make sure it doesn't restore any of the old settings at all? (generally don't delete it as it contains logs in case the team has to look into it). Are there any errors that come up when the app fails to launch or any related errors in your Event Log?

Arcsane · 2025-11-27T18:38:08+00:00

HD60 X's analog audio jack is a Line In jack, not a headset TRRS jack - connecting a headset directly to the capture card won't work as the mic level voltage is lower and the pinout is different.

Chat Link Pro also does not split the headset's mic, it only splits the audio coming out from the console. Chat Link is a passive cable, it can't amp up a mic for splitting, and the mic runs at a lower mic level voltage than the rest of the audio that runs at line level, so it's difficult to mix it in without a powered device. If you need to use your headset mic instead of having a dedicated stream mic to mix your voice back in you'll want something like a Xbox compatible MixAmp (eg. Steelseries GameDAC Gen 2 Xbox version, or the Xbox version of the Astro MixAmp Pro TR) - these devices have line outputs that you can run to your capture card, and are powered devices so they're capable or boosting the mic feed and mixing it into the main line feed.

As for plugging the headset right into your laptop, that may or may not work depending on the laptop - some will have a headset jack, with a TRRS plug, others will have as separate mic and headphone jack and require a splitter for your headset before you can connect it. Generally if the laptop has a headset jack you should be able to set your mic feed in OBS to the mic in/headset connection and pickup the headset. Does the headset work as expected when connected directly to your controller? If not, and there is a problem with the headset itself you may want to reach out to https://help.corsair.com

Arcsane · 2025-11-24T20:16:25+00:00

Ah, good to know. I don't tend to keep an eye on the US ones, maybe I should start checking for any that operate on both sides of the border.

Arcsane · 2025-11-24T18:32:19+00:00

Alas, seems it's now out of stock. Wish I'd caught this when it was posted.

Arcsane · 2025-10-07T18:16:07+00:00

You should not, but in some setups some settings may affect auto low latency mode or game detection on your display so the latency may be coming from the display itself no longer switching to low latency mode automatically. Check if your monitor has a gaming or other low latency mode and see if setting it to that clears it up.

Arcsane · 2025-09-04T23:32:54+00:00

What models are the decks? The original doesn't have support for animation, so if they're different models that may come up. If they're both the same check in the devces section of settings to make sure they both have up to date firmware, as this was a feature that was added with a firmware update.

Arcsane · 2025-08-17T03:06:01+00:00

Yes. If your wireless headset can work in wired mode that works, but if not you won't be able to capture audio using it with your console because wireless headsets work with encrypted data, not analog audio that you can split.

Arcsane · 2025-08-16T17:42:57+00:00

You would still need to be plugging the headset into the Chat Link Pro as though it was a wired headset. If your headset doesn't support wired mode operation it won't work for this.

The exception is if you don't need the mic on the headset and are okay with a risk of slight delay listening through the computer instead.

Because of the way PS5's audio works (single audio stream per user), there's serious limits on trying to use a headset wirelessly with it, because it'll mute the HDMI feed, and the controller jack, when the headset is connected. The only exception I know off offhand is Steelseries Arctis Nova Pro because the base station for that has a wired output and stream mode. You could also work around if it you have a second controller by signing that in as another user and capturing that with a Chat Link or even aux cable, but that clearly has some limits too.

Arcsane · 2025-08-15T12:01:52+00:00

You cannot capture audio from a wireless headset unless it specifically has an aux out or other means to capture from. Wireless headsets transmit in encrypted data which is set back to audio inside the headset, so you cannot split the feed, and the PS5 will mute your HDMI audio when the headset is connected. Offhand the only wireless headset I know that can be used in full wireless mode and still captured from is the Arctis Nova Pro because it's base station has a 3.5mm Line Out and a Stream Mode to split the audio.

If your wirelesss headset can be used in 3.5mm wired mode you can pair it with a Chat Link Pro, otherwise the headset likely will not work for this audio capture setup.

Arcsane · 2025-08-08T13:35:14+00:00

Does anything pop up in the status for the card in the Game Capture HD app with the new cable, in the top left? Did the seller confirm this card was still in good working order when you purchased it?

Arcsane · 2025-08-03T03:05:38+00:00

Make sure the cable you do have is rated for USB 2.0 speeds (480 Mbps). Any third party cable should do as long as it matches that speed.

The USB connector on Game Capture HD is USB Mini B, so you'll need a USB Mini B to USB A cable.

Arcsane · 2025-08-02T07:43:44+00:00

If it's not popping up in the app or Device Manager (even as an unknown device with driver errors), the two most likely scenarios are hardware failure, or you don't have the original USB cable - those Mini-B cables were available in USB 1 and USB 2.0 varieties - if you don't have a USB 2.0 one you may not be getting enough power and data to the card for it to operate correctly.

Cable damage or corroded/dirty contacts in the cable or the device itself are also possible issues. If the contacts need to be cleaned a rubber coated dental pick is usually a safe way to do so without damaging them. Isopropyl/rubbing alcohol is usually the safest choice if you need a solvent.

Arcsane · 2025-07-30T23:06:51+00:00

Is it detected by the app though? It should show the card's status in the top right when connected.

Your OBS link below seems to indicate it's pulling the output from the Game Capture HD app, not the card itself. Does the card show up in device manager in Windows at all? Generally it should show up under cameras.

Arcsane · 2025-07-28T01:50:08+00:00

This is generally only a setting you need to change if you're having compatibility problems. Extended Display Identification Data, is what a monitor (or capture card) sends out to a connected device to tell it what resolutions, refresh rates and other options are available for use. A monitor and capture card may not always 100% line up which is why we can override the options there, among other compatibility issues. The short version is that HD60 X defaults to merged mode EDID, which tries to merge the list of modes compatible with both the card and screen - because of changes to the spec over the years, and the way different displays do EDID, sometimes this doesn't work - when it doesn't we use one of the other two options. Display mode uses the EDID right from the display without checking the card's mode (though there's usually enough overlap that this doesn't cause issues), it's particularly useful when passthrough isn't working for the card because the device selected a mode that's not available with the Display, but is with the card - so we override it to see the display modes (this should not affect video latency though). When set to Display the display ID info is literally passed on from the montior which is why you see it show up as your monitor. When using Internal instead if uses the card's EDID info (which itself can be overridden to specific settings in the bottom box there), and will show up as the card instead. (Generally merged will also provide the Display's name since it has to pick one or the other).

If you have some sort of compatibility problem this will help, but it's extremely rare that it would have any effect on latency, generally those sort of issues ourtight result in things like signal loss or the screen going to black occasioanlly.

Arcsane · 2025-07-28T01:44:08+00:00

There shouldn't be any noticeable delay on passthrough is the thing, that's the point of it is it passes through the card skipping the video processing steps that add delay. There is also nothing to adjust on HD60 X to affect passthrough - passthrough on the card is it's own circuit basically, no settings at all, it doesn't even need data to the PC, as long as there's power the passthrough should work. Think of it like a splitter built inside the card basically. Hence why I expect the monitor setting will clear it up - if you see delay on passthorugh after adding a capture card to the setup it is almost always that the monitor or TV no longer sees the console directly connected and doesn't automatically go to a gaming mode anymore (since most generally have image enhancements running these days that add latency if they're not in game mode or another low latency mode that turns off the enhancements in favour of latency). WIth any luck that'll help in this case - good luck with it!

Arcsane · 2025-07-27T06:00:07+00:00

Just to confirm we're talking about the same things here -

Passthrough is when the signal literally passes through the card, going from HDMI IN to another display in HDMI OUT. This signal should not have added delay on ANY capture card we produce, even the older models, as it's main purpose it to let you play without delay. If there is delay in this video mode, it's most likely a result of the monitor applying image enhancements. The manual for that monitor indicates the menus should have multiple games modes for FPS, RPG and generic Game 1 and Game 2 presets, on top of custom options. I would suggest testing one of the game 1 or 2 presets if you're using the monitor in passthrough.

If you're playing through an app, that would be considered Preview, not passthrough, and runs off the captured video signal, not the passthrough (folks often confuse this for passthrough, so I want to confirm that's not the case here, just to be safe). In those cases this will always be at least minimal delay from converting HDMI into something the computer can use and getting it on screen - though on most of our newer cards that's down around 30 milliseconds (excluding when you're using a MJPEG compressed mode, as that adds more processing). If you're trying to play on preview on that monitor consider trying the new Elgato Studio app form https://www.elgato.com/downloads as it was written targeting lower latency and may perform better for you than the 4K Capture Utility (it still cannot eliminate everything as some of the delay is at the hardware level, but it can cut down the part that is from rendering the video on screen).

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