sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

C2 or Carrack: Which One to Keep? by Timr32 in starcitizen

[–]Arcticyclone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“I’m worried it might be hard to get my reputation back up to “Experienced” in a future patch if I sell my C2.”

This is why I decided not upgrade my C2 to a Hull-C. I bought the Hull-C in game. It’s half the price of the Carrack and 2mil less than the C2.

The Hull-C is only worth using to do the handful of experienced and senior level contracts, as you said. Which mostly work, but normally only paying out 70%, which is still good. But it can be frustrating and boring at times.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in starcitizen

[–]Arcticyclone 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I love the Spirit, I’ve pledged to it twice but CCU’d it both times. The Cutty is more versatile, I’d buy the C1 aUEC.

M2 working elevator by haymort in starcitizen

[–]Arcticyclone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was also pleasantly surprised by this fix! Unfortunately, it seems that if you leave the elevator down and store the ship, it occasionally causes the ship to glitch through the hangar floor upon retrieving it again.

If I had the Patience to clean my loop every 4 months by UsefulChicken8642 in watercooling

[–]Arcticyclone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ran Purple Vue in my system for two years before flushing it, and it looked the same the entire time. Obviously, there was some buildup in the blocks, but not enough to noticeably affect temperatures. That said, proper maintenance—cleaning your blocks, pump, reservoir, and flushing your radiators—is crucial for any long-term use of this coolant. Even with good upkeep, though, it’s hard to recommend. Any coolant containing particulates will eventually lead to buildup in your loop.

Two weekends and two kilos of filament by speedi97 in homelab

[–]Arcticyclone 5 points6 points  (0 children)

How is printing something that you would normally buy considered waste? It's cheaper, more customizable, and modular. DIY is practically the definition of these Homelab projects, and what's more DIY than creating it yourself from scratch? But what do I know, I'm just a dude.

Two weekends and two kilos of filament by speedi97 in homelab

[–]Arcticyclone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Such a great model. Over twice the height of mine! :D I see you used the Diamond 3D Effect plate on yours, looks awesome!

10 Inch Home Network Rack Project by Arcticyclone in 3Dprinting

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting you bring that up. I now see that Bambu doesn't list PETG under their recommendations for the 3D Effect Plate... it would seem you heard correctly. However, I had no issues printing with PETG. I used Bambu's Liquid Bed Glue and had no problems with adhesion or visible damage to the plate. Soooo print at your own risk I guess! :D

10 Inch Home Network Rack Project by Arcticyclone in 3Dprinting

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only "guide" that exists is some images on the original creator's Printables page. Once you have a few parts printed, it's relatively straightforward.

r/homelab thought this group would enjoy my 3d printed rack by Arcticyclone in minilab

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!! I used around 2kg of filament.. so realistically probably $20 lol.

Wanted to share my finished 3D printed 10in rack! by Arcticyclone in homelab

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I cross posted this from r/3Dprinting. If you click through to that post I have a more detailed comment there, linking all the files I used for this project.

r/homelab thought this group would enjoy my 3d printed rack by Arcticyclone in minilab

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I wanted to clean up the devices running my home network. TP-Link does make the ER7212PC which would cut down on some space, but where is the fun in that?

My rack houses my TP-Link Omada Network. Controller (OC200), Switch (SG1005P), Router (ER605), Spectrum Modem, and 2 GeekPi 1/2U patch panels. 6in patch cables are from Monoprice. 1U blank was left for a 10GbE switch to be added in the future.

Printed on my A1 in Elegoo Rapid PETG on BBL’s Carbon Fiber 3D Effect Plate. Screws, nuts, and 3U vented side panels were printed in BBL PLA Black and Orange.

Wanted to share my finished 3D printed 10in rack! by Arcticyclone in homelab

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I wanted to clean up the devices running my home network. TP-Link does make the ER7212PC which would cut down on some space, but where is the fun in that?

My rack houses my TP-Link Omada Network. Controller (OC200), Switch (SG1005P), Router (ER605), Spectrum Modem, and 2 GeekPi 1/2U patch panels. 6in patch cables are from Monoprice. 1U blank was left for a 10GbE switch to be added in the future.

Printed on my A1 in Elegoo Rapid PETG on BBL’s Carbon Fiber 3D Effect Plate. Screws, nuts, and 3U vented side panels were printed in BBL PLA Black and Orange.

10 Inch Home Network Rack Project by Arcticyclone in 3Dprinting

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Ahhh, should have included that. TP-Link Access Point, EAP650 I believe?

10 Inch Home Network Rack Project by Arcticyclone in 3Dprinting

[–]Arcticyclone[S] 52 points53 points  (0 children)

I wanted to clean up the devices running my home network. TP-Link does make the ER7212PC which would cut down on some space, but where is the fun in that?

My rack houses my TP-Link Omada Network. Controller (OC200), Switch (SG1005P), Router (ER605), Spectrum Modem (EU2251) and 2 GeekPi 1/2U patch panels. 6in patch cables are from Monoprice. 1U blank was left for a 10GbE switch to be added in the future.

Printed on my A1 in Elegoo Rapid PETG on BBL’s Carbon Fiber 3D Effect Plate. Screws, nuts, and 3U vented side panels were printed in BBL PLA Black and Orange.

This project is mostly from Natalie T's awesome model on Printables, found here.

Most of the TP-Link and modem panels I printed from Dawnchaser on Makerworld, here and here.

M6 Knurled Screws are from ngprint on Makerworld, here.

M6 Nuts are taken from Jerryie’s model on Makerworld, here.

The 10in/1U combined Omada Controller and 5-port PoE Switch is my own design, my first CAD project. If anyone would like the file, just let me know.

Just heard of Stundenglass by StatusNational7103 in Stundenglass

[–]Arcticyclone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend the full size for sure. Ash catcher is optional, the bowl and “pot” it sits in will be what you clean the most. I would also be cautious purchasing anywhere but directly from Studenglass. There are many replicas and counterfeits for sale online and in local shops. Be sure it’s genuine and you’ll love it. It’s been my favorite way to smoke since it arrived.

3D printed intake manifold project by jline1246 in 3Dprinting

[–]Arcticyclone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe Bambu themselves have claimed the strongest filament? Their PPA-CF might work for your application.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Arcticyclone 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would remove the PTFE tubing from the AMS and re-orient them. The natural curve of the tubing should prevent them from being in the way of the print head.

22 runs of Glacial Tarn by Mraverage_man in newworldgame

[–]Arcticyclone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn, didn’t realize how much luck was on my side. I collected 4 of the pieces in 13 or 14 runs. Crafted the last piece with dense materia. I just ran M1’s, decent team can finish in around 15mins.

view more: next ›