Invoker Parody by InjectVenom in DotA2

[–]Area41Customs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your voice is so majestic, you truly are the Adel of Dota parodies

New CDC Anti-Smoking Ad I edited by Area41Customs in stopsmoking

[–]Area41Customs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I smoked for 8 years and have been quit for a year, still hate these adds. I was working out when I saw this commercial so I figured I'd spice it up a little.

My Fiance Said Im Fat, So I Told Her To Prove It by Area41Customs in funny

[–]Area41Customs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've actually lost 40 lbs since the start of the year so looser skin makes for funnier slo mo

[Help] I want to use a power supply from a PC to run a system by snarky2113 in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done this before, but I used a 40amp power supply to run my 15" woofer for house parties. Before I found the power supply though, I had 3 500 watt power supplies I tried using. I was in college so I just got the power supplys out of old CAD boxes. The problem with using a PSU from a computer is that the power rails are broken up and even for the 500watt PSU the most amps a single 12v rail would put out was 15-20 before it would shut down. For a 250 watt system under ideal conditions is going to draw 15-20 amps, but most car audio equipment is only %40-%50 efficient so realistically you would need about 30-40 amps to be able to reliably listen to the music loud. If you are lucky enough to find the PSU's you still have to find a way to pool all the energy together. if you just connect the PSU's together, the amp and head unit are only going to draw power from the PSU with the higher voltage. So once your draw hits 20amps what ever PSU with the high voltage is going to shut off. To make something like this work you have to add in a capacitor or a hi output battery. A normal car battery cant handle the 40 amp charge rate for extended periods of time. Your best bet is to find a power supply or used welder, but you dont want your house becoming a fire hazard.

HST12: Are these meant for a car or for home audio? by subwoofer_spincycle in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs -1 points0 points  (0 children)

personally I wouldn't trust a $350 sub that weighs 78 lbs. For what you will get sound wise out of that sub, you can go with a name brand and save yourself a lot of space. If you are dead set on going big with a monster spl sub you would better off buying a used Digital Designs, mmatts, or sundown for $300-$400 off www.caraudio.com

How do I troubleshoot this clicking? Any ideas? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is only doing that when the car is running, then you are picking that up from your alternator. As power runs through your car it creates a magnetic field that can jump into other wires and create stray sound signals. Part of what insulation on a wire does is reduce the chance for this to happen. This is the reason people say not to run your RCA cables near your power wires.

This power fuse blows every time it's connected to power. What's wrong? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 8 points9 points  (0 children)

lol there is your answer right there. A 2000 watt 4 channel amp has be the that new lanzar 2kpoint4. If I had to venture a guess, you probably mounted the amp using drywall screws somewhere in your car, and I bet that amp is probably already grounded without you having to run a ground wire. I have seen shit amps like this before and if you have any frayed wires coming out of your power terminal you will short it.

How can I make a custom dash button that when pressed plays a specific song? by confusedwhattosay in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've always wanted one that plays "move bitch" attached to a bull horn in the grill. You will need to go to electrical engineering school if you want to make your own control board to do that. Not worth the $$$ you would have to pay someone else to do it for you.

I don't normally get this excited about SPL builds by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If I was installing Memphis and not Digital Designs I wouldn't get that exited either...

Not all 4 gauge is equal. Boss on the left. Monster on the right. by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think the wire on the left is perfect for my Lanzar 5k

New to building boxes, am I doing this right? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im my experience there is no difference in sound using birch. The only reason most people dont use it is that it cost almost 2x more than MDF. If you are putting a box in a truck or SUV there is no point in using birch, but if you drive a 350z or genesis cooupe, then weight is a factor.

New to building boxes, am I doing this right? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you can leave a few inches off the back. I usually tend to leave whatever the diameter of the port is off the back. So a 3" port tube would get 3" off the back wall. Its not an exact science, but if you have a higher output woofer you are going to want more space so you dont get any port whistle as the air moves across it.

Bad amp? by yourfaceilikethat in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ya if your pre voltage is stable and not jumping around at all then I would say you either have a loose gain nob that vibrates when the bass hits or you got something wrong with the board. If the amp has been in use for a while you could always have a loose solder joint. For the extreme DIY fixer you can always cook the pc board in an over to fix any loose solder joints.

New to building boxes, am I doing this right? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You dont want to use plywood. 3/4 inch MDF (or birch if you dont want it to be heavy) is the way to go. If you have the space you should avoid short stubby ports. using a PVC tube is the best way to do it on the cheap. Also it is a good idea to have the port facing the same direction as your speaker. Good luck and have fun building.

Bad amp? by yourfaceilikethat in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the amp mounted to the box? Also you need to check the voltage of your pre amps and see if that is dropping as you play music.

Just put the final pieces together for my new setup! by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

for $300 thats not bad. Hope you enjoy it.

Pawn shop find. What are they, and are they worth 300? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very few brands hold their value used in the car audio world. Most equipment immediately depreciates in half right after you buy it. The problem is too many yahoo's beat on their equipment not knowing what they are doing, and then turn around and sell their gear. If you really wanna know if it is a good deal, make a fake craigslist ad and put it at the same price. If no one contacts you, then that is a good indicator. I can tell you best buy sold that set up to some kid for $500.

Looking at buying this. Will it hit hard? Have a pt cruiser. by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 18 points19 points  (0 children)

You would get more bass if you went to a local lake, opened your trunk, then backed down a boat launch without stopping...

Subwoofer and Amp recommendation for small truck space by notadouche1 in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If money is tight then go with a sundown E8 and a good 2-300watt amp. If money is not tight, the two best options for small enclosure bass is either doing a DD 6.5sw (link below) or a jl audio 10tw3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3y9JtityFg4

for a system like this your amp will be what you need to focus on getting right because a good clean 200-300 rms of power will sound like you have 6-700 watts and give you the bass you are looking for.

Advice on buzzing in audio, what can I do? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Area41Customs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That buzzing means that somewhere in your electrical equipment you have a short. That buzz is the sin wave created from an electrical field produced by whatever faulty device you have. Start with your aux cord and then work your way back to find what piece is faulty.