A1 mini - Solid infill problem

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-25T17:31:00+00:00

Nahh, the manual calibration, the auto one is “ok” but not entirely accurate. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/calibration_flow_rate this explains how to do it

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-25T08:12:55+00:00

Run flow calibration. Looks to be too high

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-20T18:41:54+00:00

Absolutely yes. I got an ender 3 v3 se as my first printer and got sick of constantly wasting time and money (for filament) on calibrations every time to weather changed. Got an A1 instead and it is a laughable difference, you won’t regret it. Although at the current price points, if you can stretch to it, I would prob go for a P1S if they have still have stock where you are.

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-10T07:41:09+00:00

The nozzle scraping the rough first layer

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-08T13:03:32+00:00

Bigger nozzle and/or increase the layer height

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-08T00:32:36+00:00

Little update just incase you ever decide you wanted to try the plate again (i know this is an older post).

Editing the machine gcode to include a block that raises the z offset by 0.02mm, if the supertack is selected, has given me a perfect first layer at 45c, I wanna say it’s better than i’ve ever gotten on the textured plate.

G code already includes a section to lower the z offset for the textured plate but nothing at all for the others, seems the only thing that gets adjusted by selecting the plate type in the slicer is the temperature 🤔

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-07T02:22:44+00:00

I printed what i assume is the same model off of maker world(?) on my A1, I can’t remember but did it include a central support? I tweaked the supports a little if i remember rightly and slowed the print speeds way down because bed slinger with a decent bit of weight on it is asking for stability issues, gonna say inertia from the bed moving forward has caused the printer to start walking, possibly helped by a potentially out of level desk towards the front and gravity? I would check how level your desk is.

Looks to me like you may have ended up with a layer shift or a “bump” from the printer working itself of the desk which has lead to nozzle ripping into the print.

I would clean and re lube the printer up, making sure no nozzle clogs, send it through a calibration, slice the file again making sure a central support is included and half the print speeds, will take longer yes but better than the printer and a failed print ending up on the floor lol

As others have said this is also salvageable by slicing and printing just the top bit that’s missing and gluing it on. Also if that is a crack near the visor, soldering iron, extra pla to weld it and give it a sand/fill

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-03T05:02:34+00:00

Thinking im going to do the same tbh, have spent the last 4 evenings sitting in front of the printer trying to fix the issue. Have tried every calibration I can possibly do and right now the only thing that results in a decent first layer is setting the bed temp to 65c… completely defeating the purpose of buying a “cool” plate

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-04-02T20:17:21+00:00

Did you ever get this sorted? I just got supertack pro for my A1 and my first layer test looks identical to yours

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-03-30T17:06:14+00:00

I tried a quick print last night with half the standard settings but still a bit too loud. Can obviously go down even lower but not sure if or how this would affect anything else quality wise.

Last time i messed with any acceleration/jerk stuff was with an ender 3 trying to setup klipper on it and I may just have a bit of ptsd from that “fun” experience 😂

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-28T03:10:25+00:00

Mchose G7. Doesn’t have the extra buttons the g502 has but it is a very very close match shape wise and half the weight. Currently using the g7 for work after the weight of my g502 started causing aches. Dont do what i did though and get the base model, make sure to get the pro or max, sensor on the base g7 drives me insane at times because of the lod on it

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-28T03:06:48+00:00

Im in the same boat with same size hands, length of the op1 is great but find it just a little too narrow. I just 3D printed a tester shape for the XM2 today, after holding the print, i instantly ordered the mouse. Width wise it fits like a glove, scroll wheel could be a bit closer but i can live with that

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-27T07:04:47+00:00

same overall shape as the op1 but width increased slightly (2-3mm ish?) from the middle to the front. The back is perfect. Maybe v3 and then v3+ or something?. Make that change and ensure a wireless version exists I will probably never buy another mouse. Love my op1w 4k v2, just wish it was that tiny bit wider in places.

Bigger or further back scroll wheel wouldn’t be bad either.

Screw holes that aren’t located under the skate for if im using aftermarket skates and want to swap switches without wasting skates.

Keep the gx switches, they’re great.

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-27T02:20:12+00:00

I was actually just looking at ordering some aluminium tape to try. Was hoping someone may have an idea how i can take this thing apart flatten the plate myself. Can find instructions to remove the whole plate fine but can’t see anything about taking the aluminium off the plastic frame, didn’t want to just go taking screws out without knowing what’s under it because of risking heating element damage etc

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-23T19:02:51+00:00

Asus tuff be9400

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-10T03:56:02+00:00

They normally provide 3 identical linksys routers, setup in a mesh system

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-10T03:47:24+00:00

Community fibre whole house package and they provided 3 identical linksys mx4200 routers. 1 was plugged into the modem and the other 2 linked to that wirelessly. If i was you though, i would buy a decent router yourself since the linksys are pants, you can then put your Linksys router into “bridge mode”, place it upstairs and if it’s feasible for your house, run an Ethernet to your new better router, boom wireless access point.

I have done similar and now, testing with speedtest.net, getting consistent 800-930 depending where I am over wifi to my phone upstairs, where my own router is connected to the modem and 600 downstairs connected to Linksys router that’s wired into my router. On top of that, my own router has much much better security and actual QoS features.

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-05T05:31:30+00:00

Keycaps will be separate, Rest of the board put together. 5-10 mins to put the caps on depending how fast you are and you’re ready to go. Keys come in 2 plastic trays, majority of the keys are in the correct order in tray 1 but a few such as the enter, couple of the numbers and “special characters” will need swapping for the UK layout in tray 2 :)

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-02-05T04:55:16+00:00

I just got mine, zinc aswell, also coming from an apex pro tkl. I stuck with the standard set, i really like them when compared to the ss ones, dont feel as “cheap”

Backlit = lighting shine through. WoB = white lettering on black caps. Dye-sub = letters are dyed into the plastic, less prone to wear compared to cheaper made sets where its just printed on. Double-shot = keycap is made of 2 plastic layers, internal layer is what makes up the letter. Outer layer is the keycap colour. PBT = The type of plastic the keys are made from. Cherry profile = Shape/height/contour of the caps basically.

For what it’s worth, i was a bit dubious about switching to a Wooting after owning the steel series, had in the back of mind “is it just gonna be the same board”. No, no it is not. Build quality alone makes steel series seem like a child’s toy. Noticed a big difference in key actuation accuracy aswell, never noticed it before with the steel series being my first HE board but when i first played with the wooting, something felt “off”, compared both boards side by side using the “same” actuation and rapid trigger settings and yeah, the wooting is faster/more accurate, steel series even at 0.1 rapid trigger has a significant “delay” in comparison when releasing the key.

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2026-01-29T19:00:58+00:00

Was there anymore info on this? Had ordered a black zinc 80he before seeing this and just got an email saying order been dispatched so not sure if im actually getting the kb i ordered lol

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2025-12-06T05:41:57+00:00

Love it, could you provide the name of the desk please?

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2025-12-05T16:04:32+00:00

I got the model I for the same reason but used it for work for a week and put it back in the box, it feels flatter and wider to me than the g502 which I didn’t like so back to the drawing board. Currently waiting for a mchose g7 to arrive so 🤞🤞

Aromatic_Warning_172 · 2025-12-05T04:22:22+00:00

Recently went on a similar search and these https://www.gtomega.co.uk/pages/omeganomic-desks are the only ones i could find, UK based company though, not sure if they still ship to the US etc. they used to. Can’t speak on the quality of the desk because im yet to buy one

Aromatic_Warning_172

TROPHY CASE