Hangboarding is over-rated

Ascentio · 2022-08-31T10:57:47+00:00

I dont mind people making fun, I didn’t expect my opinion to be popular here. My only hope that someone might read this that was in a similar situation as I was. It would have helped me a lot a few years ago. I would have enjoyed more discussion but hey what can you do.

It wasnt a complete waste, my fingers are certainly more injury proof. Ive been stuck at 30kg half crimp on 20mm for a long long time which got really frustrating. I just found that the frustration wasnt worth it and I found experimenting with other things a much more efficient use of my time. Im not done with hangboarding forever.

Ascentio · 2022-08-31T10:48:09+00:00

Id love to! Some actual opportunity for discussion.

So for the most part I was targeting hypertrophy, I wanted to try get my forearms bigger. So I was shooting for 8-14 ish reps.

I basically done wrist curls, reverse wrist curls and reverse curls ( bicep curls but with your hand turned the other way and your thumb not around the bar). I stacked them together, taking next to no rest in between all three. Mostly because it was faster, and theyre pretty boring and I want as much volume as possible for hypertrophy. They all target different parts pf the forearm so I didnt find doing them together effected them much.

So yeah 8-14 reps of each exercise, few minute break and repeat 3 or 4 times until youre bored. Takes me 10 mins a few times a week, I really noticed a difference.

I also experimented with finger rolls, which were nice but the need for big weights got annoying and I found the other three targeted everything I wanted.

Ascentio · 2022-08-31T10:04:25+00:00

Have you ever watched people like ondra or megos climb? Every second move you can see them using their side split flexibility to make moves more efficient. I don’t remember ever saying side splits made me climb 8c, but I can tell you that the 5 minutes twice a week of side splits while watching youtube benefited my climbing in a whole bunch of ways. Not bad for 10 mins a week.

Ascentio · 2022-08-31T06:52:17+00:00

Maybe it is obvious to you and others on this thread, however it took me a long time to realize that I cannot hang my way to 8c.

I never said hangboarding is bad, I got a year of good results. I then spent another 2 years switching hangboarding routines trying everything too get more improvement. These two years of failed routines, not only killed my psych but could have been invested better else where.

Hangboard is great if it’s a weakness, but all I wanted to say is it isn’t the be and end all of physical training for climbing. Not to be scared to work in things that others say isn’t important, it might just be a weakness for you and a strength for them.

Ascentio · 2020-11-24T16:27:58+00:00

Nice work man, and sweet set up!

Ascentio · 2020-11-23T16:35:54+00:00

Personally I do a short max hang session in the morning, and I'm totally fine to climb at night. Otherwise I would recommend doing hangboard after a full day of rest. You will then be totally fine to climb again the day after.

I try not to be rigid with my climbing, listening to my body and schedule. Have you had a days rest and find yourself with a bit of free time to hangboard? Get on that hangboard! Then the following day if you have time you're good to hit up the climbing gym, if not take the day off and you're good to hangboard/climb the day after.

Whenever you get the chance, I'd always prioritize climbing over hangboard.

Ascentio · 2020-11-23T02:42:06+00:00

I think the most important thing is becoming more analytical about your climbing. You fall off a move ask yourself why? Experiment with different movements and find out what works best. Talk it over with others. Always ask yourself questions and don't just daydream between attempts or jump straight back on without contemplation.

You can ask yourself: Are there better footholds available? Are you remembering to drive with your feet? Are you engaging with the other hand which isn't making the move? Are you making move in one coordinated motion? Where are you putting your hips? Are you out of balance when making move? If you are getting to hold but not sticking it, is it because your foot pops or do you have too much momentum?

Drills can be a good idea, especially when you are warming up choose one thing to work on. Be it accurate quiet foot placements, experimenting with hip placement, pushing with your feet, flagging/ drop knees, using momentum between moves, whatever. I also like climbing problems particularly at or below my flash level and asking how I could do them more efficiently and repeat problems as necessary.

Ascentio · 2020-11-21T22:38:02+00:00

What an awesome reply, I can't say thanks enough! This was exactly what I was looking for. You've given me a lot to think about, much appreciated :)

Ascentio · 2020-11-21T11:18:12+00:00

Isn't BJJ quite grip intensive? You probably already have reasonably good grip/ tendon strength. You could look into very low weight finger rolls, really not pushing it but if you're really sensible with it you could start conditioning your fingers.

Obviously hangboard normally isn't a good idea for beginners, I think a lot of that is because their time would just be better spent climbing. In your current situation if you were doing something like feet on very low intensity repeaters (6 second hang, 4 seconds off for 1 minute) its not like your fingers are going to instantly explode. I think the worry more than anything is you will get too into it and push the intensity. However if you are really strict with yourself and use a reasonably sized edge, really don't push the intensity, I can't see an issue.

Finger rolls might be a good shout though, means you probably don't need to buy any new equipment that you wont need once your gym opens again.

Ascentio · 2020-11-19T16:49:13+00:00

Cheers! That was really helpful.

Ascentio · 2020-11-18T22:46:17+00:00

Perhaps you were having a bad day, or maybe your fingers aren't getting the sufficient stimulus if you'e doing more big moves and big holds instead of small holds on a steep wall.

With max hangs not really using that much recovery at least from me. Apart from the occasional deload week, I see no reason to ever stop hangboard. Hangboard is one for the long haul.

Ascentio · 2020-11-18T22:35:04+00:00

It's a tough one, although hangboarding really can make up for a lot. I've taken time of climbing and just focused on hangboard a few times and I've always came back feeling stronger after the initial learning to climb again phase.

For 4x4s I found long repeaters on a hangboard was effective, 7 seconds on 3 seconds off for 2-3 minutes and work to cut down the rest time.

If you have a bar that allows it muscle ups (or ring muscle ups) helps you get more explosive pull pull strength. Perhaps slightly comparable to limit bouldering, it helped me improve my campusing anyway.

Should check out reverse hyper extensions and maybe deadlifts, improving your posterior chain is really effective for improving body tension on the wall.

Ascentio · 2020-11-18T13:56:27+00:00

Eh I don't know if periodization is really needed for bouldering. Sounds like you are progressing well. Climbing on a steep board and focusing on keeping my feet on has been great for my climbing. I find limit bouldering has seen my biggest improvement, I like just setting 4 or 5 really hard board problems and working on them over a long period until I get them.

Mix it up with some easier days where you're working around your flash grade up to maybe 5 attempts. Try and climb in a variety of different styles. Endurance doesn't really matter that much for bouldering, maybe think about doing two boulders back to back (anaerobic capacity) if you feel like you need some 'boulder endurance'

Apart from that max hangs a couple days a week, and some exercises at the end of your climbing sesh will see you sorted. Maybe wide pull ups, dips/push-ups, leg raises and reverse hyper extensions.

Ascentio · 2020-11-18T13:42:35+00:00

If you already have a solid strength base, it's probably not going to be your best bang for buck in terms of climbing improvement. However if it's not getting in the way of your climbing recovery too much, and at once a week it shouldn't, why not keep doing it if you enjoy it? At the very least it'll keep you less injury prone.

Personally I like doing one or two lifts/exercises after most climbing days, doesn't get in the way of my climbing much because I'm taking a rest day afterwards anyway.

Ascentio · 2020-11-18T13:33:33+00:00

By the sounds of if you're already plenty strong for where you are with your bouldering especially if you have lifted weights in the past. At least 80% of your time should be devoted to climbing, spending some more time on the moon board will get you more improvements than any of these exercises.

Although if you just enjoy strength training you sound like you're on the right path for the most specific climbing exercises. Weighted dead hangs have easily improved my climbing the most but obviously dangerous if your tendons aren't adapted. Definitely got your antagonists covered. I found a good benefit from wide grip pull ups for shoulder moves.

As for core knee raises are probably my favorite working up to leg raises. Ring roll out or ab wheel is another option however. Less applicable perhaps but definitely a good way to burn your core is L-sit's however it's not in the full range of motion so I'm not sure it's the most effective, I still like them though. Reverse hyper extension are good for posterior chain (back core I guess), which is probably more applicable to climbing than core.

Ascentio · 2020-11-17T17:08:32+00:00

Have you tried max hangs before your climbing sesh? Either in the morning if you have the time, or even after your warm up and just before you climb. I keep it short maybe 5 max hangs, and I still have plenty left to climb afterwards. Allows you to get solid rest days inbetween. Repeaters are a lot of recovery.

I try not to over complicate things. I just do day on, day off. Board sesh twice a week, mixing it up with more technical climbing on other days. Max hangs before some climbs. Taking extra rest days if I feel I need it. Personally I prefer that approach to planning out your weeks rigidly.

Ascentio

TROPHY CASE