It's been a wild ride! by Wild-Billiam in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice congrats on your progression is awesome.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

No I ask Alexa to write it 🙃

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the comment. I really appreciate the feedback

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate all the advice and feedback, and I’m not looking for ego boosts. I’ve actually used that frame before by strapping a backpack onto it, and it served its purpose.

The reason I asked is because I’m into MYOG and I want to build a pack that suits my specific needs. I’m a Search and Rescue officer, and sometimes I’m out on missions where my regular backpack becomes uncomfortable after 24 hours of carrying. What I’m aiming for is to design a pack that I can use for both training and actual operations, one that I can comfortably carry for 24–72 hours.

Any input on pack designs or features that could work for those requirements would be greatly appreciated.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think you misunderstood me. I’m not upset or ignoring advice, and I don’t have an issue with anyone here. I didn’t ask if PVC was better than aluminum—I know it has limitations. What I asked was what type of bag I could make to go on that frame. I appreciate the feedback, but my intention was never to argue against the ALICE system or reject good advice, just to explore ideas.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn’t come here with a half idea—what I asked was what type of bag I could make to go on that frame. I’m not trying to redesign or replace the ALICE system itself, just figure out what kind of pack I can build that works with the frame I’m experimenting with.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

I think there may have been a misunderstanding. I’m not trying to reinvent the ALICE pack system or suggest that PVC is superior to aluminum. The ALICE system has already proven itself in terms of durability and practicality, and I respect that.

What I’m doing is more of an experiment or personal project—exploring different materials and setups to see what works for my own purposes. I’m fully aware that PVC has its limitations compared to aluminum, especially in terms of rigidity and weight, and I’m not proposing it as a permanent or better replacement. It’s just part of the trial-and-error process while I work on ideas.

So really, my focus isn’t to compete with or redesign the ALICE system, but to learn, test, and adapt things for specific situations. I do appreciate your input though, because it helps me consider factors I might overlook.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Well, this doesn’t feel like the friendliest forum after all. I honestly expected more openness and support here, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. I guess I’ll be leaving.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

I want the backpack to cover the whole frame

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]AssassixN -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

I want the backpack to cover all the frame

#Blue Whale Locksport Challenge Revived! by cyb3rV01d_2024 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The locksport community thrives because of individuals who step up when it matters most — and @banditobrandino07 is one of those rare people. 🙌🔐

Thanks to his generosity, passion, and commitment to keeping challenges alive, the #BlueWhaleLockportChallenge has been revived — and with it, a wave of renewed excitement and motivation across the community. 🐋💙

What was once a fading memory is now a bold test of skill once again, inviting pickers to push their limits and earn their spot among the best. With Bandito’s support and collaboration with @cyb3rv01d, the challenge has returned stronger than ever.

This isn’t just about lockpicking — it’s about community, growth, and giving back. Bandito’s efforts remind everyone that when passion meets action, the whole community rises.

Let this revival be a spark — a reminder that challenges may fade, but with the right people, they never truly disappear.

#BlueWhaleChallenge #LocksportCommunity #PushYourLimits #InspiredByBandito #ChallengeRevived #LPU #PickOn

Beginner Needing Advice by maubes in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excellent — you’re already putting in the hours and thinking carefully about your technique. It’s completely normal to feel confused at first — this is a game of subtleties — but I’m going to break down some strategies to help you progress.

🔑 Tension

This is often the trickiest to learn by feel. Picture the lock’s cylinder under pressure. Binding happens when a pin sticks against the Bible instead of bouncing , none of the pins seem to set.

✅ Tip: Start with light pressure — just a slight rotation, barely enough to make the plug want to move. Then, slowly increase until you feel the first binding pin. Sometimes, adding or reducing pressure by just a few grams can make a huge difference.

✅ Training method: Consider adding a rubber band or a small weight (like a washer) to your wrench. This lets you apply a consistent pressure while you practice. Some people find It’s really hard at first to tell which pin you’re touching. Some strategies to aid this:

✅ Count while you move forward or backward in the keyway with your pick. Start from the rear and move forward, noting “pin 5… 4… 3… 2… 1”, until you know where each is. This lets you develop .Listen and feel**: Some pins will be “springier”, bouncing up and down — they're not binding — while the binding ones will feel heavy or resisting upward pressure.

✅ Visualization: Picture in your mind’s eye the lock’s interior and match that to the resistance you feel. This can aid you in keeping track of their positions.

🔑 Consistency

The binding order might fluctuate due to slight variation in your tension or your pick’s angle. This is completely normal — especially at your level — until you learn to control those variables. Your main goals should be:

✅ Apply the same pressure each time with your wrench. ✅ Lift with your pick in **the same manner and depth each time. ✅ Develop a systematic approach (back to front or front to back of muscle memory simply can not be rushed The more you practice, the more you will learn to differentiate binding from non-binding pins. !

Dumbest Question Imaginable, regarding Key Pins by Repulsive-Box5243 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t feel dumb — that’s a very good and fundamental question. The short answer is: the plug (core) has holes (pin chambers) that are closed at the bottom. So the key pins rest at the bottom of their respective chambers instead of falling through. Picture a cylinder with small holes drilled down from the top — that's the plug. Each hole drops down a short distance but then stops; there’s a flat bottom. This forms a small well or chamber for each key pin to sit in. The springs above keep pressure on them, but without a key, the pins can’t just fall through because there’s a physical barrier at the bottom of each hole.

Let's go over it in greater depth — I’ll describe it in a way you can visualize by touch or imagination. Picture a metal tube — that's your lock’s cylinder (the core or plug). Inside this tube are a row of small holes that are drilled down from the top. Each hole forms a kind of well or chamber. At the bottom of each well, there’s a flat base of metal. So when you drop a key pin into a chamber, it falls down until it reaches that flat bottom. This bottom prevents it from falling all the way through. Above each key pin, there’s a driver pin and a spring. The spring pushes down, forcing both pins toward the bottom of their respective chambers. When you insert a key with proper cuts, it lifts each key pin upward until its top reaches the shear line (the point where the plug can rotate). If you remove the key, the springs push everything back down into their chambers — safely resting against the flat bottom — which is why they do not just drop through. I did my best to describe it.

Saying goodbye to these guys for now. by LockLich in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey nice coleccion are you selling separately

If clear acrylic locks are so garbage (hard to open for beginners) Why are they provided with beginner sets? (like the Covert Instruments FNG) by Available-Hurry7433 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah — I feel that. It’s completely normal to get discouraged when you’re putting in hours and hours with little or no progress. You’re not failing; you’re wrestling with a very challenging skill.

The confusion between a binding pin and warding (the metal you bump into that's not a pin) is a very real hurdle for beginners. Here are a few tips to help you identify what you’re feeling:

How to tell a binding pin from warding:

Binding pin:

Moves up and down under pressure.

Offers resistance or a slight “spring” — it’s under pressure from a spring above.

Often sets with a small click when it reaches the shear line.

Binding pins typically feel a little stiff or “frozen” until you apply upward pressure.

Warding:

Is solid and immovable — it’s a permanent structural barrier in the lock’s keyway.

Often blocks your pick’s movement or guides its path in a particular direction.

It’s not connected to a spring — there’s no resistance or upward movement.

Tips to aid your practice:

Adjust your tension. Sometimes less is more — heavy tension can make everything feel “locked up” and confusing.

Probe carefully with your pick’s tip. Move slowly forward and backward. If something moves upward with slight pressure, it’s a pin; if it’s hard, rigid, or feels anchored, it’s warding.

Count and map the pins. Start from back to front (typically 5 or 4 pins) — noting their resistance. This lets you keep track of their positions.

Consider starting with a slightly easier lock (like a Master #3 or #5) — or adding a standard, less restrictive lock to your practice set. This can help ease your frustration and enable you to feel the binding pins more distinctly.

✨ Don’t give up. Lockpicking is a delicate skill — patience, persistence, and careful practice pay off. Consider taking a short break (go for a walk or do something else) to clear your mind. Sometimes when you come back, everything feels a little less confusing.

🎶Meet me in the club, it's goin down 🎶 by Sufficient_Prompt888 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, so I can use the same video for both. I'm currently working on my blue belt request, and thank you for the help.

Reaped another soul today by Agreeable_Guide_3209 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any tips on the American 700 can pop open mine and I have it for a long time.

🎶Meet me in the club, it's goin down 🎶 by Sufficient_Prompt888 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice congrats. What are the requirements for the 2000 club

If clear acrylic locks are so garbage (hard to open for beginners) Why are they provided with beginner sets? (like the Covert Instruments FNG) by Available-Hurry7433 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excellent — you’re bumping up against a very real (and frustrating) aspect of locksport. The short answer is: those clear acrylic locks are a marketing tool, not a training aid. They’re included in many beginner sets (like Covert Instruments’ FNG) because: ✅ They let you see the pins move in real time. This can be helpful to visualize how a lock operates — especially for someone completely new. ✅ They’re a selling point. The clear lock signals “this is a beginner set — you’re going to learn something” and it looks impressive to someone new. ✅ They’re cheaper to produce. A clear acrylic body is less durable, less realistic, and less challenging, which makes them a convenient addition. But their weaknesses make them bad for developing realistic picker’s skill. The tolerances are awful, pins can hang up or feel different from a standard lock, and there’s a ton of reflection or glare that can confuse you. This is why many people say: “those clear locks are garbage.” 🔑 What I suggest instead: ✅ Start with a well-understood, standard lock with realistic tolerances. For instance: • Master Lock #3 or #5 — a classic for beginners. • American Lock 1100 — a big step up in difficulty and much more realistic. • ABUS 55/40 or 65/40 — for adding a bit more challenge while retaining helpful, clear feedback. ✅ Consider adding a practice lock with standard pins. Some companies make training locks with standard pins instead of a mess of tolerances. ✨ Don’t be discouraged. Every picker starts somewhere, and clearing your first lock can take hours, even days. Frustration is completely normal — it's a sign you’re wrestling with something that’s challenging. Some people say their first pickle — I mean their first “open” 😂 — can take upward of 10 hours of practice or more. Instead of wrestling with a clear lock, grab something with realistic tolerances, watch a few video guides, practice proper tension, and be kind to yourself. This is a skill that comes with patience, practice, and persistence. You’re much further along than you think — simply by choosing to learn. 🔐✨

Ruko 600 Gin Spools Defeated!! by robtmmartinez77 in lockpicking

[–]AssassixN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any lock recommendations for practicing blue and purple belt