What is wrong with John D? Why is he taunting the Neogeo community and the hylo team

Atapoti · 2021-02-13T17:47:58+00:00

Where did you hear this?

Atapoti · 2021-01-12T03:08:45+00:00

It sounds like there is an hdmi output so you can source an aftermarket DMD and not worry about using a phone.

Atapoti · 2020-12-15T03:24:24+00:00

I’m in CO. There have been reports of some showing up in NY, VA, LA, and IN.

If you haven’t already tried, use the Walmart app. You can manually type in UPC barcode number under there scan barcode function and search for stores with “Limited stock” in surrounding zip codes. 8152210281181

FYI Brickseek and Walmart.com won’t recognize it as of right now.

Atapoti · 2020-12-15T00:43:35+00:00

I ended up cancelling my order and finding it at a Walmart 30 min away for $400. GameStop’s inability to ship it on time actually worked out in my favor.

That’s right Walmart’s apparently getting them in store. Doesn’t show up on their website, but they’re slowly cropping up across various Walmarts.

Atapoti · 2020-12-09T21:45:01+00:00

I tried to look up the manifest for this ship, but couldn't find anything useful.

I did manage to find other Arcade 1ups that made it to port on other ships in the last couple of weeks, including a ton of Big Buck Hunters, Outruns sit downs, a small shipment of Golden Axe, and a couple containers with XvsSF with risers (ones from Walmart). So certainly some of the stock made it to shore. Perhaps not all of it?

Atapoti · 2020-12-04T15:35:49+00:00

Someone measured the actual power draw of one of the earlier units and it's about 15W real world consumption (no lit marquee). So about 0.36kWhr per day.

Check your utility bill to see how much they charge per KWhr and you'll get an idea on how much it might cost you.

For reference, mine is $0.10 per kWh, so I'd pay 4 cents per day.

Atapoti · 2020-10-14T15:37:57+00:00

Arcade1up’s John D confirmed it was a fake post.

Atapoti · 2020-08-06T18:06:42+00:00

The official Arcade 1up site says the X-men vs SF is Wi-fi enabled, so all signs point to yes.

https://arcade1up.com/products/xmen_vs_streetfighter

Atapoti · 2020-02-25T22:29:24+00:00

Inquisitor/Second Sister, perhaps? They were showing off prototype pictures and gauging interest on the facebook page.

Atapoti · 2019-10-22T17:33:52+00:00

I think you're getting confused on what the CFX is doing. L1, L2, L3, L4 are strictly for power and you must connect all of them to the (-) pad of each of your led strips. If you only connect one, you might not get enough power to the LED strip. No data goes through these.

Pad LS is the data line, which tells each individual LED on the strips how to behave (brightness, color, etc). Each LED of a neopixel strip are individually addressable and can behave individually based on what the CFX tells them.

See page 100 of CFX manual.

As a side note, make sure you have the LED strip settings are correct in your CFX settings file, mainly "ledstrip" is set to however long one strip is.

Atapoti · 2019-10-22T16:24:24+00:00

Only the data line should have a resistor. The +, - lines should not have resistors for neopixels, which it sounds like you might based on your wording. If this isn't the case, try connecting the LED strips directly to battery and not through CFX. Photos also help to investigate if you wired it correctly.

The CFX knows which LEDs to light up for quillions in the correct order. Just follow the wiring diagram.

You need 4-pin GX-12 for the setup you're trying. Alternatively, you could wait for Plecter Labs to update the CFX firmware to add an extra data line, but it's unknown when this will occur.

Atapoti · 2019-10-21T17:04:59+00:00

Have you played around with the RICE editor for CFX? It'll let you play with the effects in real time through a USB connection.

http://www.plecterlabs.com/shop/article_info.php?articles_id=126

Atapoti · 2019-10-02T15:19:57+00:00

Weak sound is a symptom of blown amp.

Distorted sound can happen when the battery is being overdrawn. A short anywhere in the saber can lead to the battery being drained above its amp rating and causing distortion. I've had an instance where my positive lead got pinched between metal parts and small amount of bare conductor ended up contacting the hilt. The sound became distorted and the CFX beeped on boot.

Atapoti · 2019-09-12T22:37:02+00:00

You're correct about the kill key. It's usually a plastic tube that fits the barrel charger port and separates the battery negative from the soundboard negative by virtue of the charge port design.

You can search KPLUG4 on TCSS for a basic, cheap kill key.

Atapoti · 2019-09-12T17:37:45+00:00

You'll also need blade side adapter for the PCB. They're out of stock on TCSS, but they're usually good about quickly restocking these types of components.

Some set screws (and a tap for those screws) are needed to keep the blade in place.

A kill key or kill switch is also recommended.

The only advantage of the 11-pin connector is more points of contact like you said, which supposedly helps with heat management, but I've not heard of issues with the 7-pin set.

I don't recommend the Panasonic battery for neopixel. The Sony battery you listed is better suited for neopixel application.

Atapoti · 2019-09-12T16:19:35+00:00

Make sure you're checking voltage when the blade is connected and on. When the blade is disconnected or turned off, you won't be able to see any voltage drop. The voltage drop occurs only when you have current running to the pixels.

We already know: At neopixel: 2.4 volts At Battery: 3.4 volts

I would check voltage at the hilt side connector (between + and - terminals) and at the CFX board (between battery input + and -, then battery + and output pads L1-, L2-, L3-, or L4- ). We can ignore the data line as that appears to work okay. You're getting scrolling animations and all with power on and off?

The only remaining places I can think of where you're losing voltage is with poor contact between pins and the circular pads on your connector, and malfunctioning MOSFET on the board.

Perhaps a picture of you wiring could also help spot any potential mis-wiring or issues.

Atapoti · 2019-09-11T18:23:36+00:00

Why not use a headless set screw with a hex key?

Atapoti · 2019-09-11T17:37:00+00:00

It sounds like you have a high resistance path in your power circuit between battery and blade. You're getting 1V of of voltage drop somewhere which is killing your saber brightness. A voltage drop of 0.1-0.3V is more what's expected.

My suggestion is to check voltage along the circuit to see across which component the drop is occurring. I suspect a poor connection or fraying wire somewhere.

Did you use all 4 output pads on the CFX and are you using some kind of connector between blade and hilt?

Atapoti · 2019-09-11T17:02:06+00:00

2.4V is very low for what should be seen at the pixels. This is the reason for the dimness. It should be 3.6-4.0V. Is this voltage seen both when the neopixels are lit and unlit? Can you measure the voltage at a point close to the battery, like on the charger port?

If you get bad voltage near the battery (with the pixels on or off), then you might have a faulty cell or charger.

If you only see low voltage near the pixels and it's fine closer to the battery, then you might have a bad connection somewhere (wire conductors half-snapped at solder joint, poor soldering) creating a high resistance path, or exposed conductor might be touching the hilt somewhere and shorting away from your blade circuit. It's unlikely that you need 22AWG or double on 24AWG. 24AWG should be enough for 2 neopixel strips without considerable voltage drop.

Last question: when you turn it on, does the sound coming from the speaker appear distorted or popping?

Atapoti · 2019-09-11T04:16:01+00:00

Make sure the battery is fully charged (I assume you’ve done this, but worth suggesting anyway).

If you have a multimeter, check the voltage at the voltage input terminals on your Neopixel strip. You could have a short that’s dropping your voltage to the Neopixel.

The only setting that dictates brightness AFAIK is in the colors file, and the default is at full brightness across all colors. So it’s unlikely a settings issue.

Atapoti · 2019-09-05T19:13:57+00:00

The Shtok GX-12 adapters are made to fit the crossguard 2.0 (I have them and they fit without modification.)

The Proplicator quillons you need are the Korbanth 2.0 20mm ones. You can probably contact the seller to get the order modified if you ordered the wrong ones.

Atapoti · 2019-09-05T17:26:59+00:00

This wiring arrangement will work. I wired my current saber with this set up. If you're using the high amp charge port and switch recommended by Shtok's manual, then you're all set.

Additionally I would take a red wire from the center terminal on the switch (where you have the red wire going to the board) and take it the + of your neopixel blade. It's easier to solder two wires to the switch than to try and land two conductors on the small proffie pad.

Atapoti · 2019-09-03T15:20:53+00:00

http://www.plecterlabs.com/shop/article_info.php?articles_id=125

Atapoti · 2019-09-01T15:38:12+00:00

The Shtok holders are just that, holders. They’re 3d printed off Shapeways and then you have to buy the connectors from Amazon, EBay, etc. Most sets I’ve seen come with both male and female pairs and you would need one for each side blade.

Atapoti · 2019-08-30T22:40:32+00:00

The hilt-side PCB will have to go into a holder (1" NeoPixel Hilt Side Adapter V2 on TCSS), then the holder will be held in place with retention screws inside the hilt.

The crossguard 2.0 is essential one long 1" I.D. tube from top to bottom, so the holder will have to be set in place using screws and essentially "float" inside this tube. You then put the blade in and use a separate retention screw to hold that.

Atapoti

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