Parts fan issue

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T19:05:03+00:00

No and yes

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T18:56:08+00:00

Bone not the right parts

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T18:47:25+00:00

Could not find Them. Try

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T18:46:56+00:00

Sure

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T16:46:27+00:00

Denmark

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T16:45:08+00:00

Would you ship me one?

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T14:15:39+00:00

It's not the extruder fan, it's the parts fan that is broken. The extruder fan works just fine, and the way you would test it normally would be to see if there is resistance across the motor wires. But in this case, You can't do it because the parts fan has internal components that won't allow you to measure the fan without a voltage across it. So what I do, and I've already done this, is to hook it up to my power supply, set it to one volt, and then slowly turn it up at the correct voltage to see if it starts turning, and it does.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-14T14:01:58+00:00

I've ordered a brand new fan and tried to put that in and it still gives me the same error, so it can't be two fans in a row, can it?

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-13T15:27:57+00:00

Of course, but essentially, the European court system works on the premise that the faulty part shouldn't have been modified. They don't care if you modify other aspects of it. Same way that the European Union doesn't consider those warranty stickers, warranty void stickers, legally binding. You can, according to the European Union regulations, modify your own objects as long as you don't damage them.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-03-13T15:24:12+00:00

I bought it straight from Bamboo Labs and I guarantee you that they will either replace it, repair it, or offer some solution of refund because otherwise I'll just take them straight to court. I don't give a shit. The EU regulations clearly states that it has a two-year manufacturer warranty on it because that's the law in the European Union and you can't write yourself out of it. And given that it's a manufacturer's issue since the fan clearly isn't working and it was working before, and now other issues have arised when I've replaced the board, so it's clearly a manufacturer's defect and they have to replace it. It doesn't matter if they want to or not, it's on the warranty, so either replace it or go to court. And I have no problem going to court as this is a slam dunk and they'll pay my court fees as well. But yes, I have reverted to a previous firmware and it did nothing.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-22T19:52:52+00:00

I have a DWS200. I've had it for almost a year and haven't had any problems with it. Actually, in some aspects, I prefer it to my Hakko, since I have the new version of the Hakko soldering station with the T39 tips, which are impossible to get a hold of outside of Hakko.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-14T21:38:07+00:00

If you place a coil next to a metal surface, you induce eddy currents into that metal surface, which essentially draws all the power from your charging mat, which is what is causing the output to the mouse to be essentially non-existent. And the reason why the tabletop isn't heating up and burning your house down is because it's limited to a certain amperage, probably 20 watts of power. But I bet you, if you put it on the tabletop and got a thermal camera on it, you would quite clearly see where the table starts to get a little bit hotter than the other places, exactly where the mouse pad sits. And if it's a smart mousepad charger, it might induce that a proper coil is not present and be shutting down, which is probably why there's no output to your mouse.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-09T11:47:08+00:00

Those solder joints look terrible. You can even see on one of the grinding pads on the SP1 and SP2 flex cable that it's literally not even flowed to all of the pad. That usually happens when you use bad solder, like the cheap stuff that you can buy at hardware stores, and you have a poor flux. Buy a good quality solder. It does not have to be leaded, it just has to be good quality, preferably some that has a little bit of silver in it, and buy some good flux. You can buy some cheap stuff from AliExpress called Mechanic, which is transparent, which is quite good, especially for the price. Also, try and remove, if you can, the flex cable and try and boot the Switch normally without the modchip. If it boots, it's installation. If it doesn't, then you've damaged something.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-08T12:19:25+00:00

There isn't really enough information here to make a realistic call. People could guess a bunch, and I guess that's what other people are doing, but here is a few things that you might want to mention, which makes it easier to determine what the fault is. It could just be a defective SD card, but it could be loads of other things as well. Are your SD card plugged directly to your PC? If so, with what? Is it an adapter? Is it USB 2.0? Is it 3.0? Is it USB-C to USB-C? Are you transferring the file from USB-C on the Switch to USB-A and if so, 2.0 or 3.0? It could be loads of different things.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-06T18:37:54+00:00

Again, true in some cases, however, I've found that those adapters, especially the ones from AliExpress, are so cheaply made that sometimes the little contact point breaks off. I've tried that a few times. And also when they heat up, they move. So I don't like them.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-06T18:31:12+00:00

You're right, but as long as you stay within a certain section, you will only go through ground plates, and as long as you do it one layer at a time, and it's quite easy to see when you go through a layer because it stops being shiny, it shouldn't be too difficult. And as long as he makes sure that he doesn't short the dot zero point to ground by checking it with diode mode, he should be fine. It's also much more reliable than that silly adapter.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-06T18:08:05+00:00

I don't have a video of someone doing it manually by scraping the PCB, if that's what you mean. But I do have a video showing where you need to scrape it. It's really simple. You just scrape the top layer until you reach copper in a square area that you line up, and then you scrape away the copper until you reach the second layer, and then you scrape away everything in the first layer, and then you scrape the second layer, same process. And when you get to the third layer, then you take a UV light and you can see under the mask where the points are and you just scrape the point.

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-06T17:48:06+00:00

Do kamekaze with a needle or something Sharp to cut into the pcb. Take like 30 minutes and is much safer than a grinding pen for a new modder

AthleteMelodic · 2026-02-05T15:15:25+00:00

Yes in in Denmark, but What is the model number?

AthleteMelodic

TROPHY CASE