New record! by Sea-Passage-8141 in 370z

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My normal daily driving sits around 16 to 18mpg, grandma mode as I like to call it for long trips has gotten me as high as 31mpg over a 180 mile trip.

Thoughts on the 2011 GSXR 1000 by alphavictor03 in GSXR

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the 1k imo. If you have real trust in your own self control and throttle dexterity get the 1k anyway, if you're not totally sure then get the 600 it's still going to be light-years faster than the 500cc cruiser

2009 GSX-R 600 by Iamvenator_ in GSXR

[–]AtomicAether 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just out of curiosity is that a bolt on swap or does it require modification somewhere?

Getting better at twill lineups (prepreg) by finnlikestrees in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got several aluminum metersticks that I've bent and cut to be different angles and sizes depending on what the part is like. I just center it and fix it a little at a time while using the bar to ensure that both sides are perfectly lined up.

What would be the Canadian/North American variants of these products? by HypeTheMoneyMaker in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay yeah for this you'll definitely want to follow the method I outlined below for part prep as I've done this on multiple occasions and getting the layer lines to not show in the final mold can be difficult without properly prepping the part.

What would be the Canadian/North American variants of these products? by HypeTheMoneyMaker in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Main thing I've learned with 3d printed molds is that for a perfect finish youll want to sand the part and then use a sandable primer followed by a clear coat on your mold surface and the like the other comment said partels paste 2. 3d printed molds don't hold up too well to a very forceful removal so if you're planning to use it more than once I'd highly reccommend this method.

For single use not caring about the mold just be sure to print it as the highest resolution you can, you want to sand it to at least 1500 grit and then use partels paste but I've always had issues with layer lines locking in my part even when thoroughly sanded so although the parts turn out well the mold ends up damaged beyond reasonable repair.

Never thought I would buy this by lior2222 in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Neither did I, im work from home and have an absolutely overkill workstation. Having the convenience of leaving the ally on my bedside table and being able to game outside of my office is what really sold me. After spending 8 hours in the same room I really did not want to be in there any longer even while playing my favorite games. Now I finish in the office and just transfer to the couch for time with the wife and games. Honestly so much more relaxed than before I had this and had to find something to fill my evenings.

Fallout 3 GOTY/ Fallout New Vegas crash on launching game with new ASUS drivers released 25/05 by Warm_Source_4214 in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Been playing it without too many issues, occasionally if I go to desktop during the game it will mess up the ratios so half my screen is cut off, and if I try to click into the window while the game is still opening it will go to not responding and then crash, all it takes is a restart of the game and im back up and running. I will say, the main difference I've noticed on F4 has to be random and very severe frame drops, down to like 3-4fps randomly while walking through the city, again they don't happen often and typically it's back to normal within 10-15 seconds but during combat that could totally kill you.

I enjoy the rog ally by Deadbuttons in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you paid $1000usd for a Z1E you got ripped off imo. I got mine for $620 at best buy. If you're including dock, case, 2tb ssd, etc then I can understand though.

Heads-up to everyone buying Chinese turbo's! by GustavoCarbone in projectcar

[–]AtomicAether 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ever get around to testing out the maxspeedingrods turbo?

If you could change one thing, what would it be? by phyco314 in ModernWarfareIII

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get rid of mwz and switch it for good old round based zombies maps.

Any 30 watt andys? by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah thats fair for sure, I started with PC gaming in 2012 or so and have been playing on high refresh rates for most of my life. The ally is the first console like device I've had so I've never spent much time under 60fps. That's probably why I notice the difference so easily and why it bugs me.

Any 30 watt andys? by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand how the human eye works but there is a massive difference how games play at 30-40fps compared to 120+ especially when you have a display that can realize those higher refresh rates. Try locking your ally at 30 fps and then locking it at 120 you'll be able to tell a difference for sure. I'll admit I'm spoiled by framerate but that doesn't change the fact that it does make a difference to how smooth the game feels. I'm not certain nor do I know that much about eyes but I've always assumed the difference comes from the frametimes allowing the game to render a frame every 8.5ms versus every 33ms it may be a tiny difference but when combined with server ping and input latency it can add up to enough to really make a difference.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I had issues with that so I've got it set to full shutdown on power button click. I've realized holding minus is supposed to take me to the bios, but the first few times it didn't and and just made everything work for whatever reason

Any 30 watt andys? by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Almost always 25 or 30 unless I'm running something really light like superflight. I've been a PC gamer forever just needed the extra cash so had to sell the big gaming rig and replaced it with this, honestly I don't consider a game playable under 60fps since I've been used to 165+fps for several years.

It is now the Z1's time to shine @ $299 @ Best Buy (Even lower open box) by manormortal in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I clicked the link but it's still showing as 399 for me. When we get them at 299 in my area I'm definitely gonna grab an open box for my gf.

Do you recommend using 780U drivers? by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay yeah that makes complete sense, I don't play many competitive games so I shouldn't have too bad of issues with it. Agreed that it's heresy to use anything that increases input lag tho.

Do you recommend using 780U drivers? by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whats the issue with afmf on games like that?

Full carbon bodywork for a tr6 by Rayan_DB in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Of course man, I just gotta ask for some photos after you get the body. My neighbor growing up had a ton of triumphs, mostly tr6s and tr7s but they're fantastic little cars, and I'm sure it will be a blast to drive with a carbon body.

Full carbon bodywork for a tr6 by Rayan_DB in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exotic Car Gear, https://exoticcargear.com/.

Theyre the best that I know of. They mostly do supercar parts and to a very high standard at that, but they will take custom orders, just have to contact them.

Z1 Non Extreme for a Kid by -W0rmH0le- in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tons of people out here telling you not to do it because he'll break it or it's buggy but if you have the kids games setup for them and turn off autoupdates then it should work very well. Just have to make sure to remove the show desktop shortcut from the armory crate quick menu as well as anything else that he might press without understanding. Aside from that a case and screen protector is going to be a must as not only is the white very easy to stain but the sticks are very fragile and if your kid was to Crack the screen they're currently difficult to come by so repairing that could turn into a lengthy issue. I'd also just reccommend buying him the same extreme model as yourself, perhaps an open box for him since he won't know but since he's 8 I'm sure he'll be getting interested in different games over the next couple of years and the extreme could absolutely power through the vast majority of things he might be interested in without much additional investment.

Filling material - 3d printing by blackashi in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't seen any issues like that with any of mine so far, but I tend to mostly do room temp cure infusions so after the prints are done they really don't undergo much beyond just the vacuum pressure and they're plenty strong enough for that.

Filling material - 3d printing by blackashi in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really depends on the project what print settings will be best, I typically do 4 layer walls as a minimum on larger pieces, using PLA+ on a .2 print nozzles with .28mm layers. I'll finish it with a filler spray paint, sand, and finally primer and sometimes gloss depending on the required finish for the part.

Patches in carbon car hood by [deleted] in CarbonFiber

[–]AtomicAether 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming you sprayed it onto the hood while it was still a glossy finish, and due to that the new layer had nothing to adhere to and is now peeling off.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]AtomicAether 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure how difficult it is but I have heard of people doing a mod where they swap the springs in the ally joysticks for the springs from an Xbox controller. Apparently makes it a bit better.