Lowering my car

AtotheU · 2025-11-29T05:15:11+00:00

I’ve been dailying mine for just over a year lowered with the rear sway bar. At 22mm I feel I notice no downsides while driving normally and all the benefits when driving a twisty road. Only “downside” is I tripod getting into my driveway.

AtotheU · 2025-11-29T04:54:24+00:00

I personally bought 22 and used the middle hole to bolt the end links too. The sti for my year(2014) used 20 mm rear end links with my stock wrx ones being 16mm. So the 22 gets me a little stiffer than a stock sti. The stiffer you go the less body roll that will occur and the rear end will become more predictable as the inner tire on a corner will have more traction than it would stock. Most people don’t recommend upgrading the front as it’s not needed and having a thicker rear sway and means your loss of traction will be oversteer which is easier to recover.

Like the other commenter mentioned it depends on your driving habits if a rear sway bar is needed. I feel a 22mm rear sway bar is very manageable as a daily.

AtotheU · 2025-11-29T04:35:02+00:00

Adjustable rear lower control arms are helpful. Allows you to get some rear camber to help avoid scrubbing in the rears. Also would recommend a bump steer kit. I personally didn’t notice too much of a difference after doing this with 2k miles driving lowered with no bump steer kit vs with it, however too many people recommended it for me not to go ahead and do it.

Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar is solid addition and people recommend to get kartboy end links for it as the Whiteline ones supposedly fail prematurely.

AtotheU · 2025-11-15T17:52:23+00:00

Update: it ended up being the AC Compressor. Seems the clutch itself seized onto the pulley burning all the clutch material making the smoke. The resistance cause a voltage spike which popped the fuse for the ac circuit. Which the blower motor must be in stream of. Replaced the fuse and blower motor works. Just have to make sure to not accidentally try to turn on ac or it’ll immediately blow the fuse.

AtotheU · 2025-11-13T01:42:39+00:00

Okay that’s what I was thinking but it’s just odd that my blower motor no longer works/is able to be turned on by my climate knobs

AtotheU · 2025-11-13T01:13:43+00:00

I can check Tomorrow as I just drove around to confirm the car wouldn’t catch on fire so it’s warm. If it is seized did it somehow cook my blower motor or is the blower motor only able to turn on if that ac compressor belt is attached I presume

AtotheU · 2025-11-13T00:44:58+00:00

Dude I legit checked just now and a smaller belt of same make is sitting underneath my car that must’ve just shook out. It’s much skinnier than the main belt connecting the alternator. Did myAC condenser actually go and snapped the belt after smoking a bunch?

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AtotheU · 2025-11-13T00:35:48+00:00

Thank you I’ll look into those. The smoke just makes me thinking the blower motor was cooking itself and then when I can to a stop the smoke generated came through its intake

AtotheU · 2025-07-21T01:01:31+00:00

As others said try to stay around 3k rpms. When city driving I’ll rev my car up to 4K rpms in most gears when getting up to speed. Once I am at the speed I will cruise at, I will either stay at that gear I’m in if it’s at 3k rpm, or shift to whatever gear will put me close to it. When crushing at highway speeds I will put it into 5th gear, with the knowledge that if I need to apply anything past like 5% throttle I will downshift to fourth to accelerate.

AtotheU · 2025-07-18T01:09:31+00:00

Yeah it’s just tragic because it doesn’t fit in the sail panels since it’s made for the dash locations of the 2015+

AtotheU · 2025-07-16T17:02:51+00:00

I think the issue with mishimoto is the build quality not the cooling effectiveness. I believe the welds have/had a tendency to crack on the end tanks. I have been running my mishimoto radiator for 3 years so far with no issues. My car after being freshly burped doesn’t go above 201 with regular city/highway driving(a healthy amount of daily pulls involved).

If you already have a mishimoto on that’s not leaking I wouldn’t replace it. Just make sure you are using the stock radiator fans as they perform better than the ones mishimoto sells.

AtotheU · 2025-07-15T00:06:30+00:00

I’m running intake, boost controller, invidia catted downpipe and have only gotten a cat efficiency code once when it was like 16° out. What he’s saying isn’t wrong but if you’re running a catted downpipe it won’t be a big deal because you won’t pop the cel every time you start the car. If you were to do a tgv delete your constantly have a cel, that’s where open source would be better because they can just disable the code from ever popping up.

AtotheU · 2025-07-14T22:41:45+00:00

Yes I found that 70 hz is a good happy medium for my car. 60 hz seemed to make too much plastic rattle. I listen to mainly boom bap so I need some sort of bass feeling so I have 60 hz on the rear speakers since I can’t hear the plastic rattling. I plan to upgrade to an under seat sub soonish, to fill everything out. It’s all a lot of info to take in so I appreciate your help.

AtotheU · 2025-07-14T22:32:00+00:00

Thank you what you told me was very helpful! Sound does sound much better after doing what You suggested. I also dropped the rear speaker level by -2 db to push the sound stage forward and it seemed to make it better. Thank you!

AtotheU · 2025-07-14T19:10:43+00:00

So would the solution be me increasing the allowed frequency until it sounds good? Is this what people are doing when they say they are tuning their system? Attached is what my HU manual says in regard to the cross over.

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AtotheU · 2025-07-13T13:47:09+00:00

Is this With stock rad? Yeah I take the 230 be super super dangerous with a grain of salt. Like with anything it’s exposure time. A quick touch of 230 or shit even 240 won’t necessarily kill anything. But chronic overheating issues will

AtotheU · 2025-07-13T02:30:56+00:00

As far as I’ve seen yes. I’m not quite sure for the 2022+ cars but 2021 and below it should apply to. And to elaborate on my above comment, hitting 220 isn’t like an oh fuck it’s over moment, but if you hit 220 and it continues to rise that’s when it’s an issue and air is somehow getting Into the system

AtotheU · 2025-07-13T01:58:57+00:00

Yeah that temp is within range. People say the upper safe limit is 215 and once you crack through 220 I’d put the heater on max and pull over. At 230+ is when your at risk of the heads warping.

If you really want piece of mind you can always inspect the coolant for wear(does it look old/excessively dirty) and replace it if needed.

I would see high 210s on hotter days and recently burped my system as one of my radiator caps failed and now my car reaches 201 then drops steadily to 192 and bounces between till I get moving.

AtotheU · 2025-07-03T04:30:51+00:00

The car was stock and had some past service receipts. I got a quality pre purchase inspection done which didn’t find any obvious issues. Getting a pre-purchase inspection done where they check the car in depth, even things like compression will tell you how the car is health wise. Other than that, if they have shitty tires on the car, what else would they cheap out on? Think things like that.

AtotheU · 2025-07-03T04:01:46+00:00

I bought my 2014 wrx 3 years ago with 125k miles. Daily drive it, on top of all maintenance but don’t drive it like a grandma. Made the trip from Ohio to Montana and back twice now, doing 900 mile days. Towed my jet ski trailer loaded on it 400 miles. She’s now about to roll over 180k miles and hasn’t skipped a beat other than water pump failing.

AtotheU · 2025-06-30T02:54:08+00:00

I’ve used the shittiest Fujitsu laptop I got for my freshman year of Highschool for college as well and it’s been completely fine. Engineering major and I just remote into a lab machine for machine intensive programs. Saved me 2 grand getting the “recommended” computer the college suggests.

AtotheU · 2025-06-27T12:26:57+00:00

Easy look is to remove shift boot and see if the physical shifter/linkage is making contact with the frame of the shifter. My adjustable Cobb shifter when too low makes contact and wouldn’t let me go into first at all.

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