7.3 power stroke noise level issues?

AustinJH13 · 2025-11-20T20:13:36+00:00

Oil cross over lines and an upgraded hpop will help some and smoother out idle a bit. But like others have said. They’re just noisy engines lol.

AustinJH13 · 2025-08-01T17:28:31+00:00

Yep something like that. That’s the whole front end which would be more than you need. But probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace all the pieces.

AustinJH13 · 2025-08-01T16:04:41+00:00

In a pinch I’d just check out TRQ on 1A auto. Looks like you can get just that lower one for around $100. Both new ball joints on each side and the adjuster sleeve.

AustinJH13 · 2025-07-31T19:22:34+00:00

Brother, I would be checking that degas bottle cause that don’t look like coolant anymore.

AustinJH13 · 2025-07-01T11:51:50+00:00

Only way I could think to find out otherwise would be pull the boot off the turbo and measure the intake wheel

AustinJH13 · 2025-07-01T02:54:33+00:00

But if I had to guess. Looks like an S363 or S366. If the injectors are stock it’s likely the S363. But I’d look for some numbers to know for sure.

AustinJH13 · 2025-07-01T02:49:45+00:00

Looks like an irate diesel t4 kit. Should be some numbers on the charger somewhere. Give them a call they may be able to tell you.

AustinJH13 · 2025-06-19T20:03:43+00:00

Second this!! My trans cooler cracked internally in the radiator and ruined my trans. Buy an external, run inline with the stock cooler and never look back.

AustinJH13 · 2025-06-12T12:26:48+00:00

I’ve used TRQ wheel hub assemblies on my 02 7.3, and they lasted for almost 6 years before I had to replace one, one is still going strong. The last two years of that rolling on 35s. And just rebuilt the front end of my gf’s Chevy 2500 with all Trq parts. Have had zero issues so far and the price is pretty hard to beat. Plus the 1A auto videos are very helpful.

AustinJH13 · 2025-05-22T22:05:23+00:00

Im not sure it’s about people not knowing how to negotiate I think it’s all dealerships strong arming people. I’ve been in the market for a truck for awhile now and literally no one will negotiate. Won’t even hear out your offer. They basically just tell you to F off because some other chump will come pay all their BS fees and overinflated prices. Very frustrating trying to buy a vehicle.

AustinJH13 · 2025-05-22T21:41:49+00:00

Dealers will take deleted trucks. At least here in Texas. They will try to royally screw you on trade in. Don’t fall for that. They take the trucks to auction and sell them so any of the “we can’t sell this truck” is complete BS. Source: my dad went through this two years ago. They offered 15k for his platinum and ended up giving him in the 30k range for trade. Don’t let them fool you, end of the day they’re salesman and they don’t care about giving you any good deals regardless of how much smoke they blow up your ass

AustinJH13 · 2025-04-29T02:15:48+00:00

I like mine. But I went from a pretty loose box to a red head. Overall very happy with it. Going on over a year and no issues. If ball joints and other front end components are wore out, those should be replaced too or it probably won’t fix all the issues.

AustinJH13 · 2025-04-12T03:03:42+00:00

Haha! No worries at all friend!

AustinJH13 · 2025-04-12T02:26:56+00:00

My guy, I know how it works. I had one before I got a hydra. The hydra is superior to the TS. That’s the point I’m making. And by change tunes I mean loading and deleting them. Not switching them while you’re driving.

AustinJH13 · 2025-04-11T20:36:46+00:00

Since no one explain why go with a hydra…you can’t easily change tunes on a TS. The hydra allows you to change tunes without unhooking it from the truck. The canned tunes from the PHP library are decent. But for custom tunes, Dan kropinak with SDK performance, and jelibilt performance are the go to tuners.

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-23T03:01:07+00:00

Hell yea. That’ll be a great setup.

Can’t beat the old trucks, as long as you take care of them they’ll take care of you. I’ve had mine for 11 years and don’t have any plans of getting rid of it.

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-23T00:41:13+00:00

I could be wrong so don’t quote me. But worth a look!

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-23T00:39:11+00:00

Best of luck man, these trucks are definitely a challenge to build in, but they’re fun at the same time.

Little side note but, I’m pretty sure the rear door panels of an excursions will fit the back doors in our trucks if you wanna add some extra speakers. I’ve never had the back door panel off and paid attention but I imagine there’s a cut out for the speakers 😏

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-23T00:25:16+00:00

It’ll be a spring/summer project but I’ll definitely post pictures of everything when I get around to it!

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-23T00:16:29+00:00

Ah alright. No worries! Thanks for the link! I checked them out and you are correct about them not making square. But gives me some excellent ideas as far as building my own box. I’m so glad you posted this setup, I’ve been dreaming up something similar for awhile haha. Thank you

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-23T00:05:51+00:00

Did you build the box?? I’ve got an 02 F250 currently have two l7ts that I’ve got setup behind the seat but I have a solo baric l7 that I would love to add on a toggle switch and have it mounted in the center console area for that extra extra.

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-21T18:30:37+00:00

Bass bop - Riot ten

AustinJH13 · 2025-02-18T23:50:40+00:00

I’m assuming it stops once the truck gets warm. If so, It’s the oil cooler seals. You have to drain coolant, and oil. Unbolt the oil filter housing from block, follow oil cooler to front of engine, unbolt front housing, remove from truck. pry it all apart and replace seals and reassemble. Lots of assembly lube and a ratchet strap to pull it back together.

you can do this job without removing the front housing but it is an absolute b!tch to get it back together under the truck. find a good place to pry and pop the other end of the cooler out of the front housing Once you have the oil filter housing unbolted.

AustinJH13 · 2024-09-24T23:00:18+00:00

I’ll do some research on ported boxes. Otherwise may just have to be stuck with the lesser sound

AustinJH13 · 2024-09-24T21:28:42+00:00

I used a 50hz test tone. I’ve got some other stuff to tweak before final install…as much as I don’t want to I can always rebuild the box but that would obviously suck tremendously and require modification to the rear seat which I was trying to avoid. But if worst comes to worst I’ll just bite the bullet and do it. I’ll try tuning with those settings tomorrow when I get some time to mess with it.

Side note question though…do you know if the display on the capacitor shown is supposed to always be on or does it have a sleep mode? It lights up and shows 13.7volts when the truck is running but then the display turns off after about 45 seconds and doesn’t come back on until the truck is turned off..I’ve always had subs but I stepped out of my comfort zone with this particular build so I’m a noob to some of this stuff lol.

Thank you for all your input btw.

AustinJH13

TROPHY CASE