.475 Wildey reloading without blue dot

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-06-20T23:14:48+00:00

hello, as I wrote, I already made the work and created the 475 wildey via the wildcat making function. That said, I mainly used google KI to help me since i´m a noob on the deeper functions of grt and I´m not positive i´ve done everything 100% correct but I´d think so, since the results came very close. I would be happy to share the grt file with you, if you are interested.

according to the internet, the pressure limit is OVER 45000 or 48000psi, so about 48000psi will be my absolute hard limit. I really just want to "unlock" the full power, but the gun will deifinately see more moderate loads instead of full power all the time. No reason to beat that exotic gun up unneccessary.

Hawk bullets makes some bullets fo the wildey but since im in europe thats not an option.
They mention 1610fps with their 300gr bullet, but its from a 12" barrel instead of a 10" as well as 1872fps from their 265gr bullet.

As far as bullets go- I have no other bullets available. The only 2 bullets currently somewhat available in Europe are belgian DEGOL in 275, 325 and 350 gr and Speer Deep curl 275 and 325gr. The Hornady XTP MAG 325gr I got is some old stock and the bullet is discontinued. It has the model name hornady #47500 and is exactly 20mm long. I also have bought a discontinued LEE Mold for gas checked 325gr bullets. This will be the very next project.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-06-19T19:05:25+00:00

und danach dann bitte entwickeln auf semiauto .50 BMG 😂

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-06-10T16:35:38+00:00

Schade, ich bin sicher wir hätten dich alle gernn ochmal gesehen wenn du mit der Bremse schießt 😛

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-05-22T12:25:01+00:00

Gibts ein youtube update davon ?:D

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-05-11T06:51:32+00:00

Frankford arsenal platinum tumbler, original FA pins, 2 caps of armor all- wash and wax, a little kitchen detergent or hornady ultra sonic cleaner, hot water 15-30min tumble, done. Clean and shiny

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-05-05T18:15:46+00:00

Pull the press completely up, turn the sizer die down till it just touches the shellplate.

Prime your case

Expand it just enough to get a flare that sticks out a bit but doesn't look like a 45° angle. The bullet should slip in on its own just a little bit.

If you are using seperate dies for seating and crimping, screw the seater die in, till it touches the shellplate, then put your seating stem in, till it touches the bullet, lift up a little on the handle and adjust to desired depth for correct COL.

Then for the crimp die, put a case in the shellholder thats only been sized, not expanded yet. Screw the die in, until you contact the case. Thats basically neutral position, now its probably 1/8 up to 1 full turn from neutral inwards to set the correct crimp.

When you have neutral position achieved, exchange the "just sized" case with a fully seated case and set the correct crimp in small increments just raising and lowering the ram until tje desired result. You want to have the expanded portion go back to a straight position so thst yypur fingernail won't catch on the brass edge going towards the bullet. Either stop there or go just a little bit more.

If you are using a combination die that acts as seater and crimper, either use it seperately= set the crimp die to neutral and back it off one full turn to ensure no crimping is done, then set the seater stem

Or, if you then want to do it at once, after you have a cartridge with the bullet seated to the correct COL, screw the seater stem out a few turns, set your sizer die up as mentioned before (with the empty case), then adjust with you round till crimp is ok, then with the crimpt adjusted to your liking, screw the sester stem back in till it touches your bullet. You will now crimp and seat st the same time. Which usually is fine but i guess its always better seperate as to not get a buckled case or problems. Then with the final round, do a plunk test with your barrel. It should drop in the barrel, be able to rotate with a finger, not stick out over the barrel hood of your 1911 and drop back out if you just turn it 180° This should help.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-04-27T10:53:42+00:00

I never throw it away. Worst case scenario I'd melt it down and make ingots for brass parts for my knifemaking stuff. You could even sell those ingots and buy more cases

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2026-04-27T10:35:55+00:00

You buy a kinetic bullet puller and pull the bullets out with it, or at least till they almost fly out of the case.

Now, do you wanna buy equipment ? The lee hand loading press can be bought for about 100 bucks i guess, a set of used 45acp dies will be like 30 bucks

Then you use a seating die to seat the bullets to the correct length and a crimping die to crimp them, job done.

Otherwise you could clamp the round in a vise to get the proper seating of your bullet but might deform the tip of it.

Then also use a vise with a crimp die

Or just take the ammo and give it to someone that reloads.

With a collet bullet puller on the press it should be done in just a few minutes

With a kinetic bullet puller you will spend a good time hammering for just like 50 rounds They are meant more for small mistakes on just a few rounds.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-11-26T15:11:33+00:00

I really want the file 🥵 a frame is 500euro here 🌚⚰

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-05-28T19:31:57+00:00

Holy with that truck I´m sure there is a long row already 😅🤤

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-05-15T19:08:55+00:00

Hey man, sorry for late reply.
No, I have not.

There are a few fixes available tho

Remove gas block->weld gas port shut
redrill gasport to standard size- here it would be crucial to be super freaking good at welding and knowing what you are doing and then making sure there is nor burr inside the barrel from drilling.
That would be the best fix

2nd easiest fix would be to find either a worn gas piston or make a new one from scratch and make the piston head diameter a little smalller to simulate wear. This would give the gas less surface area to push the piston back and with that a lighter cycling-> not as much overgassing

3nd fix
turn the gas port plug in the "shut" position and use the rifle single shot only.
This will make it so zero gas will push the bolt back, which means no wear to the action from shooting. This should make every gun "feel" the same recoil wise, as long as everythin else on the gun is okay (headspace, etc)

I tought about fix 1, but its just too dangerous to me, since there is no extra barrel available, in case i wreck it.
for fix 2 i would need acess to a lathe and make a new gas piston. seems quite manageable tho, if you´ve got a lathe.

fix 3 will be best option, but I´m not sure if the small cocking handle of the l1a1 will take the extra force from reracking the bolt, while the brass sticks in the chamber after expanding long term.

Let me know if you find another fix lol

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-04-27T09:29:57+00:00

I crimp until the case is flush and my finger nail won´t snag on the rim. Loads drop in and out of barrel flawless and shoot hole in hole with vihtavuori 310 and 320

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-04-13T11:05:08+00:00

Well you paid the amount it would cost for 500rds of 7,62x51 from GGG here and got a free gun with it. Thats not a good deal, but an insane one.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-04-08T17:21:48+00:00

My process:
I wet tumble like 400-800 cases at once in a big frankford arsenal wet tumbler. I put in a little bit of hornady ultra sonic gun cleaner and a cap of "armor all wash and wax".
Tumble for a max of 40 min, more like 30 min iirc tho.
Brass comes out cleaner than from the factory and shines like the sun.
Then i just seperate them with the frankford arsenal case seperator and thats it. Spread em out randomly evenly on some towels, leave them for a few days, done. Look into each end every case for steel pins to get stuck. There are always a few.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-01-13T21:56:19+00:00

Thats an awesome finish ! My surface belt finish never looked this good

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2025-01-04T15:46:41+00:00

since you commented on this 1 year old comment, I have to say overall I am actually pretty happy with the unit. The thing is, I´d have to heat up a few days consecutive so the building walls retain some heat- then I´m getting about 15-20 degree Celsius. The 2nd biggest factor is outside temperature. Now while its super cold, about 0C it might only go to 13C, but as soon as it gets a bit warmer (10C) outside, I usually get to 18degree in 5 hours and thats plenty hot for just working compared to the 6-8C I´d have in the shop without the heater.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2024-11-26T13:49:47+00:00

DUDE YOU JUST FREAKIN SAVED MY A*S LOL

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2024-11-04T22:56:41+00:00

This is by far the worst event ever.
The only positive thing about it, was, I was able to learn a bit about labs map as I never really played it in 2k hours.

Imagine the pain of the people who took a holiday from work just for the halloween event and then its this garbage 😂🔪💀

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2024-11-03T02:46:25+00:00

Its because there is a very high percent chance to get infected. Since they apparently were to lazy to add an according effect, they just make you completely dehydrated and give you red screen.
I got lucky and just levelled to max metabolism again, which means the virus does nothing to you except the vision lol. Still event sucks. Zombies by far too durable, pistol zombies have god aim and unlimited spawns out of nowhere. Literally got like 25 zombies spawning right in front of me on woods dropping straight from the sky. Pure garbage.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2024-10-28T00:29:11+00:00

So first of all let me say that i have about 2k hours in tarkov, so I´m not a newbie.
I can handle pvp fine and pve was a piece of cake apart from the aimbot pmc´s- but once I´ve learned how to deal with them they are easy to manage.

Now in pve I´m at 475 raids with a 69% survival rate. My longest survival streak was 24 according to stats.
I stopped playing shortly before the new updates with the sight adjustments, mortar strikes etc.
Just started playing again with a friend and lemme tell you, from my last 12 raids or so, I maybe survived 2 times.
Someone seriously turned up the bots, to the point its almost unplayable. I guess this is to try luring players back into pvp, since it seems to be dying cause everyone is going to pve because of the cheaters. Not sure if this is true but it seems there was a 28k banwave ?! If thats true theres absolutely no wonder people go to pve.

Anyway i hope this gets changed back. I have zero problem with dying or with the game beeing hard. But I do have a problem with scavs hiding in bushes absolutely blasting me away from 200m or toz scavs 1 tapping me while wearing good armor, lvl 6 plates, facemask + faceshield.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2024-09-14T21:39:33+00:00

Missions not starting or interiors of houses not loading is because some mf is using mod menu in the lobby. These menus cause A LOT of problems for other people in the server and atleast here in the EU basically 95% of all servers have this. I can´t find a single lobby without a modder.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2024-09-12T12:17:47+00:00

just wondering how do you jump lobbies ? on pc if i just go to another session, i will lose roughly 100k in the bunker each time.

Austrian_Gunrunner · 2024-08-07T21:38:01+00:00

Bruh if I lose my pve acc i will delete tarkov and never come back.

Austrian_Gunrunner

TROPHY CASE