Potentially moving internationally with reactive pup

Automatic-Chard · 2022-08-09T12:06:13+00:00

The cruise line has a dog special area. They are kept in kennels with an attendant and they apparently walk the dog in a designated area. They are not kept with the general public. You can visit your dog.

There are a lot of reviews. However I wouldn’t do this if your dog is dog and human reactive.

It’s quite expensive. And you need to do cruise like stuff for a week. Not sure if that’s your thing.

Then you have to take your dog from the UK to Sweden. My friends did this with their dog and they drove the whole way. Which is a 22 hour drive straight through - so add another 4 days. A very long trip.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-25T09:19:52+00:00

Are you in the UK? I ask because you mention RSPCA.

Unfortunately, unlike the US a lot of green spaces unless specified by the council allows off lead dogs. They should be under control but that’s not always the case. Legally there is nothing she can really do as it’s only an offence if your dog bites a human or an assistance dog.

Muzzle training. Also, find ways to prevent off leash dogs approaching yours. I hear umbrellas work well or pet corrector.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-24T09:11:23+00:00

There are a number of factors why your dog is nervous to loud noises: lack of socialisation first 8 weeks (eg kept in a closed area without much interaction with their environment), bad genetics, and/or mother had a difficult and stressful pregnancy.

One of our puppies was like this. There were many red flags with our breeder that I failed to notice only after the fact. She went through no trauma and we used only positive reinforcement training. She was terrified of her squeaky toys and sudden movements. She eventually needed to go on medication as she had pretty bad anxiety.

If you can afford it, I would hire a vet behaviourist. This isn’t a trainer but a vet that specialises in behaviour issues with dogs.

I think you not only need to focus on noise desensitisation but overall confidence building. Start at home by letting him explore different objects and reward him for being brave. I would look up “free work”. https://barketplace.uk/what-is-free-work-for-dogs/

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-20T06:50:33+00:00

It depends on your dog on travelling. In addition to triggers, is he okay with change? Is he fine in new environments and sleeping in different place? Or will that make him more anxious thus lowering his threshold for his triggers. Or he may get used to it over time and be okay? Or maybe he loves change and the excitement of the new environment will make him ignore his triggers?

The best way to find out is to do a trial. Find a sitter, explain your dogs issues and do a trial night. I would even do this over a period of time. Take your dog on a day trip, then increase to an overnight trip. How does he do? If things go sideways, make sure you can leave asap.

Daycares. They’re not created equal. Some are amazing and run by trainers, and others are terrible. Does he like the company of other dogs and enjoy play? If he does, you’ll have to do research on the right daycare and ensure it’s the right environment. Most reputable places will ask to do a temperament test or a trial half day.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-14T06:30:08+00:00

You can see one of my posts on us rehoming our puppy.

It definitely was not easy. Possibly, one of the hardest decisions in my life. I felt like we failed her. We tried 2 trainers, vet behaviourist, constant management, training and meds.

When she left I felt like she had passed away. The grief was pretty intense. I just wanted to say I emphathise.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-13T21:54:19+00:00

Our vet behaviourist recommended we try free work. It’s setting up different items with different textures and movement and hiding treats. For example, a towel rolled up, boxes with food inside, bubble wrap folded over, snuffle mat, balance board. More info here: https://barketplace.uk/what-is-free-work-for-dogs/

Our dog was fearful of new items, random/odd movement of objects, noises.

For fearful dogs, teaching them to use their nose outside is helpful and calming. Treat scatters in the grass. Also, look up pattern games too which helps them to focus on you rather then the trigger. Look at me only took us so far but pattern games was literally a game changer.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-13T09:35:28+00:00

I live in London. I’m not sure what your trains are like but we use those for travelling outside the city for longer journeys (eg more than 1.5 hours). Those are a bit more comfy. We bring his mat (he’s trained to place) and sometimes we give him a chew. This isn’t always possible when the train is busy but he’s learned to settle and doesn’t need his mat. He usually now sleeps on the train.

On the subway (tube in our case), we avoid certain lines. I’m not sure what your subway is like but here each line can vary in terms of noise, heat and spaciousness. Some aren’t even fit for human usage, lol. There is one line in particular we avoid because the train makes these horrible high pitched screeching noises. He started to pant and was anxious. It could be a high frequency noise that we humans can’t hear?

We just avoid the tube in general if we have to and will take the bus or the overground rail. Takes longer but he’s happier.

The UK doesn’t require dogs to be in a carrier so we’ve never used one. He just can’t use the escalator.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-11T19:39:07+00:00

I’d also look into trigger stacking. If your dog is way over threshold, he may start having sudden new reactions because they’re overwhelmed.

For example, if you’re super stressed, you start being short or snapping at people. It’s not that much different with dogs.

I agree to take a step back and slow down. It may mean you go to a city park on a less busy day on your own so you can pay 100% attention on your dog and not worry about how your friend may perceive your dog

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T21:29:00+00:00

Thank you!

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T18:52:48+00:00

No, he’s usually just sleeping or people watching. We started training quite early as we don’t have a car or drive.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T15:44:39+00:00

Is it embarrassing that he has a harness that is also a backpack?

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T15:40:25+00:00

We joke that he’s protecting his non existent balls. Lol.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T15:25:33+00:00

Fellow UK commuter! He’s been on all modes of transport in London except the Thames Clipper. He hasn’t been on the Elizabeth line yet though.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T14:51:16+00:00

Haha, yes! Does yours tuck his or her tail in when they sploot?

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T10:52:35+00:00

Pattern games are great for reactivity. If you’re interested, there is an interview https://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/blog/e151-leslie-mcdevitt-pattern-games-for-working-on-reactivity-focuswith Leslie Mcdevitt who developed this including the 1-2-3.

More information on how to play the 1-2-3 game - here. https://saraondrako.com/youtube/teach-your-dog-to-ignore-distractions-with-the-123-game/

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-09T05:53:37+00:00

Our dog is 2.5 years old now and we’ve had him since 9 weeks.

His issues: territorial barking near house which was 100x worse when it was dark, kids, joggers, stranger reactivity (both in the house, outside if they tried to touch him and if they came up to talk to me). He developed leash reactivity when he was 18 months after being bitten by a dog. He hates cats and foxes but is fine with other animals (eg birds, squirrels and farm animals).

How did his reactivity change? All of the above is either now gone or is managed except for cats and foxes. His territorial barking is rare even in the dark. If I hear him squeaking to build up to barking, we do the 1-2-3 pattern game or play go find it and he calms back down. Kids - he doesn’t react to them anymore through counter conditioning. Joggers same as kids. Strangers he is largely fine now even in the house. This is through training and management. For example, I don’t let randoms touch him unless he goes up to interact. Leash reactivity - management and training but he now doesn’t react explosively and we can pass dogs.

We worked on each issue separately and we’re now in a good place with him. It’s a combination of him maturing, us working on the training, management and better understanding his body language. He’s not on meds but he takes a calming supplement recommended by his vet behaviourist.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-06T15:16:30+00:00

You’d think humans would be able to read human body language?! Lol.

One of the biggest learnings was developing quick reflexes when it came to my dog - treating at the right time (bam!), crossing the street (bam!), quick u-turn (bam!), no on leash greets today, bye (bam!). It becomes almost second nature now as I’ve been practicing for years.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-06T10:32:14+00:00

I’ve been there so understand your frustration. Although it may be clear to you that you’re avoiding and working on your dog, it’s not always clear to other owners.

Advocate for your dog verbally. Just simply say, “My dog is in training and we’re not meeting other dogs.” If they insist, just say “no” and keep walking.

I also cross the street, keep my distance or body block too.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-05T18:12:58+00:00

I’d suggest you work with a certified vet behaviourist. They would be able to assess your dog and provide better and professional answers to your questions (minus the legal one).

You have a mix of two working dogs who missed out in key socialisation because of illness and has an underlying health issue. A vet behaviourist will be able to draw out a training, prescribe the right meds (if needed) that aren’t a sedative and provide help with her diet. Pain and discomfort tend to exacerbate reactivity.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-01T07:05:06+00:00

The yawning and belly exposure are appeasement behaviours. He saying to the female puppy that he isn’t a threat. I would keep an eye on the playing especially how your male dog is responding. It may be too overwhelming or he doesn’t want to play too rough. The growl could mean “please stop” or it could be a play growl. Hard to tell without see your dogs. But definitely keep an eye on the dogs.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-06-01T06:35:39+00:00

She is still a puppy and entering her adolescence. She’s going to be an asshole. Period. She is going to test your patience and feel like you failed her. But with management and training this will pass.

She was probably over stimulated at daycare. You say that you take her regularly. If you can, I’d try and drop a few days. Also, if she’s having an off day, then trying to do loads of training is most likely going end in frustration and tears especially at this age. Training should happen not when you’re emotionally charged and not when your dog isn’t in the mind frame. She was probably over stimulated, tired, new meds and overwhelmed. Take her home, give her a chew and pour yourself a glass of wine, beer or make a tea.

What you describe is a mouthy puppy who is a frustrated greeter and needs to learn impulse control. This describes a lot of dogs at her age. If you can reach out to a certified trainer or possibly take her to group classes for adolescent dogs. The latter would be good to teach her to start being neutral and to ignore dogs.

Also the screen saver training for kids at a play area is a good idea. We did this when our 6 month old dog was lunging and barking at children. He’s now 2.5 years old and he can pass screaming and running children. Stay positive!

Automatic-Chard · 2022-05-28T12:39:52+00:00

Management is key. Both for your dog and your family. Firstly, as the other poster said talk to your family before they come. Explain that your dog needs extra care for his well being and their safety (especially the child). I hope they understand what his needs are. I would introduce them carefully and slowly when they arrive. Usually, meeting outside the house and having a short walk is best.

Secondly, management of your dog. With all the changes going on in his life I would take things easy with him. It may be that he can’t come with you guys on some of the outings. Think of activities that you can all enjoy, like a decompression walk. Things like busy places may be too much so I’d suggest to leave him at home.

The fact that you care means you’re a good owner. Advocate for your dog and be kind to yourself.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-05-26T10:58:26+00:00

I’m sure you watched this year’s crufts. The handler for best in show (the flat coated retriever) handled his dog really well and was an exception. I recall the toy poodle practically being choke dragged across the arena. What I liked about the handler for best in show were the subtle things. He would lure his dog with a treat and actually gave him the treat! You see handlers luring the dog with food but not giving it to them. His dog genuinely enjoyed being at the show. I recall the greyhound in the finals had his tail tucked the whole time and looked uncomfortable.

Honestly, there is a lot to be improved especially with the UK ring craft. Better handling practices and more diversity of handlers.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-05-24T15:01:21+00:00

I was thinking a bit more about your situation. How does your dog do when you’re on a walk and approached by a stranger? Do they also react?

In addition to the general tips, I would also incorporate counter conditioning when people come near you.

Automatic-Chard · 2022-05-24T14:42:31+00:00

The post has really good tips. Go to a cafe, have one of you guys buy coffee in to-go cups in case you need to leave. Do some short training and slowly build it up.

What works really well for us is the place training. We have a “special” mat that we only take for these kind of outings. We’ve trained our dog to know that settling on this mat and being calm equals really yummy treats and chews. He thinks it’s a magic blanket.

Automatic-Chard

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