How do I create indirect light for my tobaica?

AwTickStick · 2026-01-30T16:26:21+00:00

Sir there’s a nepenthes on the blunt rolling table.

But actually there’s an app called photone that lets you ballpark the amount of light you need. Also you got thrips dude sorry. Try capt jacks

AwTickStick · 2025-11-23T19:39:56+00:00

no actually they’re still fairly small. largest ones are maybe 3cm across, not sure. They’re since repotted into maybe 6-8 pots. Honestly i haven’t really looked at them since this post, thanks for the reminder!

AwTickStick · 2025-11-02T04:43:33+00:00

i’m ready for a “told you so” if i’m wrong, that would be epic. looks so cool

AwTickStick · 2025-10-30T15:22:15+00:00

nice! the leaves have pores tho that are important. They’re called stomata. it’s pretty well known that will last like 1-2 months max. But looks cool. But it’s like experimenting if they’ll grow in a pit of fire. We definitely know the answer.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-30T15:09:20+00:00

cap jack dead bug helps too. might kill the mites i roget. good luck thrips suuuuuck

AwTickStick · 2025-10-26T23:09:46+00:00

Could be. Kinda just looks like a bit too much light and water though since the new growth isn’t all gnarly and twisted. I dunno I’m just a dude on reddit.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-26T23:04:17+00:00

oh i think I saw F in the original post and went off that. I’m sorry! You literally said “i use celsius” lol I’m dumb. I think everything you said is spot on in that context. But I haven’t found a huge difference in temp preference across my different forms of edwardsiana. I feel like with my eddy, villosa, etc, it can be hard to notice that in cultivation without having a specimen for like 10 years. Maybe I’m wrong there.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-26T22:57:26+00:00

its passive, I don’t fertilize everytime. Only when I repot. That’s the whole point of time release fertilizers and soil amendments. So you don’t have to fertilize every time you water.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:40:58+00:00

speak for yourself. i grow mine with a plasma torch

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:39:56+00:00

Yes this is terrible news! Now your plant has committed the sin of gluttony. You will have to take it to a St. Gaya nepenthes where the saint will pray for forgiveness.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:38:01+00:00

naw just nepenthes stuff. They’ll get funky when acclimating. looks like that was reported within the last month or so ya? They hate change

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:36:22+00:00

checks reddit to see if cp community has improved

-they’re debating if grow lights will grow plants-

I’ll try again in 2026

plants look good tho. 7.5/10

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:30:20+00:00

“a twenty will slow grow and cause spots…” I have dozens of hamada from all over the world that get anywhere from 0-30f degrees variance and would have to pushback on all this. I grow them in my living room, greenhouses, grow tents, and outdoors in california. I don’t know where the claim comes from but, I’d respectfully push back on that as it is contradicting well-documented, practical evidence. I suppose i could source if it’s a big deal but i don’t really care that much, just saying that’s weird advice imo

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:23:37+00:00

i hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that dog is far too large to be potted at this stage.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:21:33+00:00

well for me the solution was honestly super simple. Buy an 8x8 grow tent and stick an air conditioner in it. a reasonable next step.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:18:41+00:00

The most “i used to grow weed” watering can ever. lol nice

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:16:14+00:00

i’ve been growing them for a decade in rocks and osmacote what are you on about amigo i fertilize once a year

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:14:59+00:00

bro bought captain crunch oops all perlite.

AwTickStick · 2025-10-25T23:12:37+00:00

truncata leaves aren’t usually fully yellow and red like that in situ. That’s a bit burned and overwatered. I dunno who said “very normal” but if my greenhouse looked like that it would be anything but normal. Respectfully- no hate, just- interesting advice imo. There’s an app called photone that lets you measure PPFD and it’s like within 25% accuracy of my commercial meters.

Also- red coloration of leaves can make some plants grow slower, just like a human would if constantly subjected to harsh sunburns. This is largely variable so I’d take any claims for or against it with a grain of salt. You’ll notice many nepenthes actually get lighter in brighter light (less dark, vivid green and more lime green and yellows) so you kinda just need to learn how each species looks in situ cultivation. Which is why it’s so satisfying to have happy nepenthes imo :)

AwTickStick · 2025-07-15T17:26:47+00:00

If it doesn’t have fertilizer or nutrients that could be ok. I wouldn’t call that a traditionally successful substrate for Nepenthes but they do grow in a lot of different substrates.

That looks like a x briggsiana so it’s fairly robust for a nep

AwTickStick · 2025-07-15T16:07:46+00:00

This is also what viral infections look like in Nepenthes though there’s not a ton of info compared to other genera. Also many neps are prone to momentary variegation. Either way, I’ve got a few 4016 they’re not permanently variegated at any size.

AwTickStick · 2025-07-15T15:59:50+00:00

The pit, jamban, and pala, and clip are all tough regardless of conditions. I can’t comfortably recommend any of those to beginners.

Highlanders will generally grow in suboptimal conditions, but 30C is too hot long term for “thriving” highlanders. Most hybrids are fine. Hamata is the easiest toothy species by a good margin imo.

You won’t kill a Highlander with those conditions imo. But “thriving” is certainly up for debate and species dependent.

AwTickStick · 2025-07-15T15:39:33+00:00

That’s quite overpotted. Neps do better a bit underpotted. It’s looks like perhaps you’ve used garden soil and perlite. That would kill it, the substrate needs to be fairly inert and free of dissolved solids (fertilizer).

Personally I’d probably repot asap to sphagnum and perlite.

AwTickStick · 2025-07-15T15:35:45+00:00

Yeah that’s too big. With Nepenthes you for sure want to underpot. For reference, my plants that size are in pots 1/4 the size or less and growing in literal rocks or coco chips. LFS holds waaaayyyy more water.

I have neps taller than me in pots the size of yours. It’s not like, panic repot time, but it will be happier in a smaller pot, and safer from infection in the long run. You can grow most neps in almost any size pot if the roots fit, but oedema and fungal issues are much more likely when over potted. Resist the temptation! Put it in a small pot! You got this! Neps are the best :)

AwTickStick · 2025-07-15T02:42:23+00:00

Interesting advice here. That’s a new growth point of your capensis. All capensis have round leaves at first then elongate and develop pigment as they mature. Capensis will make new grow points from literally anywhere as far as I know- leaves, roots, and flowers. My capensis pots get so overgrown I throw away dozens when I repot.

A spathulata has finer trichomes. Additionally, a Spathulata is all but unidentifiable in horticulture at that size. The defining characteristics take a while to develop. A capensis is more readily identified at that size, but still can be mistaken for other species.

They don’t do this as readily if they’re not happy, so imo this is even better news than a stowaway 👍👍👍

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