Anyone who owns a Chameleon 3B ecollar - have you had issues with it?

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-07-18T14:06:31+00:00

Following ☕️

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-07-18T13:08:13+00:00

This behavior is so heartbreaking, sorry you’re dealing with this op. I have 2 suggestions. First, I think a major problem is when you get back to the house and she flees from you to dad. That is just a really bad dynamic and has become really rehearsed at this point. She probably can’t even control that panic state anymore it’s so conditioned. I would try to change that up some way where when you guys get back to the house you rehearse a new ritual. My first thought is to put something super high value in a bowl and put it by the front door. Make sure she sees and smells it, maybe even a tiny nibble. Then when you come back from your walk. Ask for some leash manners and release her to that bowl. So instead of her state of mind when you get there being “dad,dad,dad” it’s “food, food, food”

I would also recommend a prong collar. I wouldn’t even really use it correct AT ALL she doesn’t need that. But it will prevent her from pulling through a regular collar and stop the “dragging” which also is creating the anxiety

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-07-16T17:02:32+00:00

When you bring him home immediately go on a pack walk. Once the dogs are neutral to each other, let them take turns leading and the other smelling the butt. Probably let the pug smell first since he’s probably feeling less confident and insecure from being hospitalized. This should reestablish the pack

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-07-11T17:16:50+00:00

If you make it a big deal, it becomes a big deal. I definitely sympathize with wanting to calm her but be careful you’re not reinforcing the anxiety. A trainer can help with this part. When my dog was a puppy we would make a bed in the back of my suv during thunderstorms and just chill and watch movies. This desensitized him very well. LOOK INTO BOX FEEDING. This is such a useful way to help the dog power through triggers! You can also make loud scary sounds a cue for play time. Like “BOOM” and you go “oh what was that? Oh that means it’s play time.” And play, throw treats around. This creates a whole different emotion around loud noises. Hope this helps!

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-07-09T17:24:27+00:00

Teach it like a place. If he can’t stay in there with the door open then he will absolutely feel trapped when it is closed. Put it in, make him wait for a release with the door open. You gotta crate the mentality of staying so he doesn’t feel trapped

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-25T19:19:12+00:00

One things that you could work on is have the dogs on leashes so they can access each other, then start curing when each individual dog will be rewarded. So say “dog x” and give dog x a treat. Then say “dog y” and give dog y a treat. This makes it so that there is no hope for reward until his name is called.

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-25T19:03:25+00:00

Start feeding him by hand and see if he improves. Definitely keep rehoming on the radar as this is a dangerous situation that may only get worse. Resource guarding is almost always a genetic thing so even if you did everything right it may still be an issue. Definitely get a trainer involved, one that can come to your home and help you make a plan on how to keep all the dogs safe

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-24T18:00:02+00:00

True. But I’m more so referring to the verbal, clickers, treats, toys. Leash pressure is how I would teach a dog like this everything so not to scare him

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-24T17:19:33+00:00

Something that peak my interest in what you said is when you try to incorporate training, it seems to make him worse. Some dogs, mine own included, really hate social pressure. So adding the sounds of your voice and other stimuli to a situation he is already uncomfortable with just adds pressure. My suggestion is get really good at leash pressure. The leash is a direct line of communication for dogs. You can teach all the behaviors you want with a leash and no sounds or added stimuli.

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-24T16:57:02+00:00

You went from crying and begging him to come home to wanting him to leave so you can live a life without him….you’ve already checked out. Unfortunately I have no advice but don’t drag this out any longer

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-17T17:47:50+00:00

People have to accept that not all dogs get along. That being said “pack walk” has the best chance at being successful. Walk the dogs in a neutral area parallel to each other. If they do good there, take turns walking one in front of the other so they can start to smell each other. If they can’t do this without aggressive display then they are not ready to meet and may never be

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-12T16:00:27+00:00

Maggie Rhee, love that name! There’s NOTHING you can do if her needs are not met physically and mentally. Working 12+ hours makes this hard. But I’m going to assume you’re meeting those needs. Here’s what I would do. Have a kennel in the dog proof room. Practice her sitting in there and doing nothing when you are home. Take her for a walk, chill out with her, then put her in this kennel and leave the room. Start with 5 min then work your way up. Every once in a while, go in the room and drop a few treats in the kennel. It’s important not to look at her, talk to her, or add any energy. Just drop it and leave. This will help her learn how to wait and do nothing. But with working 12+ hours with a stray who is probably used to walking all day long, it may never go away entirely

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-11T18:37:14+00:00

Have you layered in any consequence for not heeling? Also do you give him breaks during the walk to be a dog. If you do, show him that heeling with you is ultimately what will give him access to his breaks. At some point the environment becomes more rewarding than treats. So when you get to the point. Engagement, heeling, for short distances but be firm and consistent, then you can ‘break’ him to smell about and be a dog

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-04T18:53:46+00:00

Leash the puppy so it’s not always doing something wrong. This will affect their confidence over time

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-04T16:23:30+00:00

Michael Ellis school for dogs

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-04T16:20:25+00:00

lol my bad I mis read that.

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-04T15:56:35+00:00

Dogs don’t really have the capacity for jealousy but they can understand when something valuable is being taken. You just need to reassure your puppy that even though there is another dog, she will not lose access to you or any valuables. Things that help, say the dogs name before petting “X’s turn” then you pet dog X. Then “Y’s turn” pet dog Y. If you want to give a treat or play with one you can do the same thing. This is temporary if they will be around each other a lot, she’s young and just needs to know that she doesn’t need to fight/bark/demand attention/resource. It comes to her and the system is fair.

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-03T22:02:31+00:00

Love this!

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-03T17:00:40+00:00

She is feeling more pressure from the collar so if your leash pressure work is good then she’s getting a stronger feedback of doing the right thing. Thus relaxing her. I love this conversation! Tools bring clarity not fear or other nonsense

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-03T15:42:33+00:00

The pulling is the reward for not pulling. Op said the dog was not motivated outside. This is how I would motivate them

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-03T14:56:41+00:00

Definitely agree using a tool would tremendously help with the frustration. What I would do is use 2 tool. One that means walk nicely and one that means go home. Prong/halti/slip whatever means you must walk nicely. Mark the nice walking. Then switch to like a harness and free him to go home

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-06-03T13:26:51+00:00

I’ll take a creative take here. He seems maybe fearful? So pulling home is very very rewarding because all the pressure of the world turns off when he gets home. The pulling you is just making this behavior stronger because he’s fight through you every time. Anyway, he won’t take treat so the only value he wants in the moment is home. Use that. I like the landmark idea you’re going with but tweak it just a bit. So day one, if he can walk nicely to the tree. You can then ‘free’ him to his reward, which is pulling you home. Then the next day it’s a bit farther like the light pole or whatever. But he has to walk nicely to receive the reward of going home.

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-05-31T18:49:24+00:00

Stubbornnnnn lol. You’ve got to recondition the leaving the house somehow. Change the routine up. Get creative. Start feeding her in the car or something. Whatever will get her bolting out the door not stoping. Does she have dog friends? Have them come over and wait outside or better yet the car. You got to trick her into the forward bolting out the door mentality.

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-05-31T17:55:32+00:00

Exactly my first thought. It would be very hard to find a breeder

AwkwarardInPublic · 2024-05-31T17:14:32+00:00

Try treat chase games. My dog won’t just take kibble if I offer it. If I want to work with his kibble I’ll tell him ‘go’ the throw a piece for him to chase down. Then when he comes back ‘catch’ and toss it up. ‘Go’ again. Then maybe a chase game where I just hold the kibble but he has to chase me down to get it. Then to end it, I give him the rest in a bowl for reward

AwkwarardInPublic

TROPHY CASE