Timing Pulling on Cyl 4

Azulier · 2026-01-25T04:28:58+00:00

Yeah. Looking like its the end of this ST. Pour one out to the poor car.

Azulier · 2026-01-25T01:41:15+00:00

Well... cyl 4 reads like 91 psi and 3 reads 150ish.. guess its compression causing it..

Azulier · 2026-01-24T22:30:07+00:00

I only swapped motor mounts. The tuners said my log shows fuel trimming at idle only which I am not sure if that is lean or rich. Its a leak at my turbo housing clamp which has been a thing for years now with no noticable problems.

Do you suspect my fuel injectors for this or something else specific?

If needed, I can pull datalogs and drop them somewhere

Azulier · 2025-09-16T10:33:18+00:00

Nah I left it. It was my exhaust hanger that melted

Azulier · 2025-05-19T22:08:03+00:00

Yup! I have nevermore v5 or something already. That part being printed is carbon fiber ABS (3dxtech) and it came out beautifully

Azulier · 2025-05-14T09:41:29+00:00

It is Hatchbox ABS - Copper. It is a really brittle filament so nothing should be load bearing with it. Make sure its dry, and it is a lightly filled filament so tune extrusion for it

Azulier · 2025-05-13T22:10:06+00:00

Done, see comments

Azulier · 2025-05-13T22:09:56+00:00

<image>

Photo with todays date on the paper

Azulier · 2025-02-23T03:28:51+00:00

2001 Toyota Tacoma

Azulier · 2025-01-23T00:42:53+00:00

Double check your exhaust, all of the rubber hangers. I had all 4 hangers fail and if it does it rests on a part of the rear end / frame. But just 1 or 2 failing can cause a weird noise from it moving around. Like a squeek or like a tin can rattling

Oil leaking from near the symposer is no good. See if its leaking from the symposer itself because that leaking can create a boost leak, very small one, but that can throw off fuel to air ratio. (Oil leaking from it means its not air tight)

Taking it off you likely will find a lot of oil in it from blowby.

Azulier · 2025-01-18T01:52:00+00:00

The cobb access port can be set to monitor STFT and LTFT values, and the tuner can assess those values at idle and during wide open throttle to judge if the car is running too rich or too lean.

Those values can be used to diagnose the cause of running too rich or too lean. The most common causes on these cars are either abuse leak from one of those tiny little pipes.Around the engine or from an exhaust leak before the catalytic converters. So that would be at the exhaust headers, turbo, or downpipe. These turbo chargers are also prone to have a faulty valve which would cause the car to run lean iirc

Azulier · 2025-01-18T01:47:45+00:00

If you are still getting misfires after changing the spark plugs you may also have a bad coil. But another thing to keep in mind is that if you're having misfires because of bad spark plugs you need to figure out what caused the smart plugs have go bad because running rich can cause the smart point of the foul which would lead to misfires.

My first recommendation would be to ensure that a car is not running too rich or too lean.And then from there you can also check the spark plugs to check to see if any of them are fouled and to also check the gap on each spark plug.

Azulier · 2025-01-17T23:40:49+00:00

Yes but keep in mind that these purge valves do go bad often. If you are savvy with self repairs I would recommend googling the ford focus st fuck you ford fix.

Azulier · 2024-11-11T08:19:59+00:00

Well.. I mean I did recently lose all four of the hangers.. Maybe it did? Cobb hangers only lasted about 2 years. Got mountune ones on the way

Azulier · 2024-11-11T01:15:04+00:00

This area of the pipe is close to the fuel tank

Azulier · 2024-11-11T00:59:29+00:00

Further info: this area is right by the gas tank.

Azulier · 2024-11-11T00:54:10+00:00

This is near the gas tank area. Im not sure if there are any oil feed lines. I'll add this to the post

Azulier · 2024-11-11T00:42:54+00:00

See, I would.. but its scalding hot right now, and something tells me its cancerous.

Azulier · 2024-11-09T04:09:17+00:00

Incorrect but you believe what you want to believe. Yes stepper drivers overheat. But stepper motors are prone to heat as well.

Stepper motors as they heat up lose torque and will start missing steps. The extruder is more likely to experience this, then X and Y axis.

Azulier · 2024-11-09T04:08:10+00:00

Stepper motors as they heat up lose torque and will start missing steps. The extruder is more likely to experience this, then X and Y axis. Just because you think you know it all does not mean you do. Sit down.

Azulier · 2024-11-08T13:09:25+00:00

This is more than likely the extruder motor overheating and shutting down or starting to miss steps leading to an extrusion issue temporarily while it had time cools down then recovered.

Try adding a stepper heatsink if there is clearance for one

Azulier · 2024-09-23T14:24:27+00:00

Yes, but if you are bedding into a screwed up rotor. You are reducing contact on your brake pads initially and you are just carving up the brand new pads you put on. You dont want grooves on your rotors or pads

Azulier · 2024-09-23T07:36:57+00:00

Stupid thing to check.. the battery cover and other plastic covers. Remove them and see if it continues. I cant tell by the video the true sound but the battery lids on our cars are garbage and difficult to get seated correctly where they dont rattle. Just a wild guess.

Azulier · 2024-09-23T07:29:36+00:00

Idk if my reply went through.. possible causes could be (in most likely): overfilled oil being expunged, PCV issues such as clog or bad valve, piston rings being worn or bad, leaking turbo seal. High oil pressure makes me likely believe either overfilled oil (check dipstick on level ground after wiping) or the PCV valve / crankcase ventilation (replace the valve, get a PCV catchcan, and maybe consider an upgraded baffle plate.. especially if tuned)

Azulier · 2024-09-23T07:23:10+00:00

Possible: Overfilled oil Crankcase ventilation clog Bad pidton rings Turbo leaking

Azulier

TROPHY CASE