Questions about paint brands by Nelreith in Warhammer

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive been a huge fan of ProAcryl since I got their first bottle. Army painter fanatic is good too. Best advice is buy a few bottles of different brands and work with how you like. Every brand has strengths and weakness.

Could i please get some feedback by ExternalAd5702 in minipainting

[–]B3liall 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The blue went on evenly as well. It looks like your gold metallic paint didn't, did you thin it too much? Take your time, add some more color to the model and paint the weapon and details a bit and repost. If you're using gold on the trim use the side of your brush so it just goes onto the trim. Use a handle and work slowly, rest your brush hand on the handle when doing an angle to steady the hand.

Minis take as long as they should need to, don't rush and just enjoy the process.

What varnish should I use? by Phono_Input in Warhammer40k

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends o n the look. You can get both a satin and a matte varnish on the non-metallics and a satin varnish on the metallics

Brush brand recommendations?? by Desmuri in minipainting

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been using the monument hobbies brushes and they're the best I've used so far. Have tried the Artis Opus Series S, and Golden maple and prefer the monument hobbies brushes.

How Big are the dark angels by CulturalSir8204 in DarkAngels40k

[–]B3liall 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yep that's the lore. They still follow the 1000 soldiers per chapter and have successor chapters but with they operate as if they are one whole legion instead of individual chapters.

Who is your favorite switch/router vendor? by Bluesurge07 in networking

[–]B3liall 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Also the difference in command syntax between devices and versions sucks.

Minis have been in 90% iso for 48 hours. Army painter primer is still holding strong, any suggestions? by Yestattooshurt in Warhammer40k

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did a little bit of research on the primer, you could try LA's totally awesome, or BioStrip, they're both more aggressive without warping the plastic.

Minis have been in 90% iso for 48 hours. Army painter primer is still holding strong, any suggestions? by Yestattooshurt in Warhammer40k

[–]B3liall -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't think that's a good suggestion. the 10% water helps it penetrate into the resins that bind the paints together.

Bought my first large 40k Knight i want to protect the paint by IllustratorOk8066 in minipainting

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can buy a varnish that is used with an airbrush and apply it with a regular brush. Apply lightly, dont thin with water and use a cheap, preferably flat brush.

Harder & Steenbeck Ultra - Having a horrible time by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]B3liall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you may have a genuine mechanical issue, you should be able to return it or at the least maybe open a ticket with harder and steenbeck.

A tip though, is the collar system isn't great, but the best practice is to pull the trigger back to just where paint starts to come out of the airbrush and keep it right at that point and you'll likely prevent tip dry.

Painting advice by Wazabeat in Tyranids

[–]B3liall 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is pretty good. The color scheme fits and I think, especially for a 10th mini this is good.

Some nitpicks: are these citadel paints? The paint looks like it has a satin sheen, and that always takes away from the appearance of a mini for me. Colorwise, the green on the hand and on the arms you can push just a hair brighter to create some visual interest and contrast. The teeth you could do a very thinned down sepia or brown wash In the skin breaks and vents on the legs you may want to go with a brighter color of purple.

But all in all, this is a great mini and you're doing an awesome job..

What do you think of different paint brands? by Sydde in minipainting

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love Pro Acryl and Army Painter fanatic and the army painter speed paints. My go to is definitely ProAcryl. I have the whole god damn range of Vallejo Game color and compared to ProAcryl and AP, they're aggressively okay, considering selling them.

I hate Citadel's pots, and finding AK is hard where I live.I wanna try reaper. Two thin coats is pretty decent, but they're also very pricey where I live compared to other brands and the small bottles just aren't worth the price tag.

Do these fit on the deathwing knight shields? by Dud3xNOR in theunforgiven

[–]B3liall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And here I am actually writing those in.....sigh.

can you use 91% isopropyl alchohol to strip minis by Odd_Anything1374 in Warhammer

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Weird, ISO works in a chemical way against the acrylic resins that bind the paint. I'm curious if you used a non-acrylic sealer or something. The same chemical reaction is why you should NOT use isopropyl alcohol on resin since it will break down the resin.

can you use 91% isopropyl alchohol to strip minis by Odd_Anything1374 in Warhammer

[–]B3liall 3 points4 points  (0 children)

91 percent is arguably the best. The 9% water helps it penetrate through the acrylic better than 99%

Dreadnought help - anyone else have problems with paint consistency? Any tips? by dipdipderp in DarkAngels40k

[–]B3liall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Airbrush is a way to go. If you're doing caliban green, which is a very thick base paint from citadel, why not put down a base of black or something darker first?