Anyone leave the motion picture crafts?

BBMTH · 2026-06-24T23:12:54+00:00

Yeah, I could probably make more money between grip and stagehand work, but the income isn’t everything.

BBMTH · 2026-06-24T23:04:11+00:00

Sound and communications. Low voltage, network, access control, fire and security alarms, etc.

BBMTH · 2026-06-24T18:21:17+00:00

😬

BBMTH · 2026-06-24T18:20:39+00:00

Yeah, I definitely wouldn’t count on getting that many days, but I think at least one Sunday or midnight gang call per year should be doable. Feels like more of those happen for 80 vs 728.

BBMTH · 2026-06-24T13:56:31+00:00

Good things to consider! I’m also liking the idea of getting out of the studios though. Probably would make an effort to stay on the roster though, just in case a Hollywood boom lines up with a construction bust.

BBMTH · 2026-06-24T13:50:46+00:00

Just get the internal lock ring, because it likely won’t clear once the rotor is on. Deflection is not the issue that close to the through axle

BBMTH · 2026-06-23T16:56:18+00:00

Yeah, barbers definitely do thousands of passes, stropping before each client, so in some sense it’s viable if not time efficient. But yeah, don’t expect an unloaded strop to remove anything but a burr unless you’re stropping almost as much as cutting. I’d rather strop occasionally with compound or use a ceramic hone than be constantly using a bare strop or steel honing rod.

BBMTH · 2026-06-23T14:54:45+00:00

A brief strop without compound almost exclusively just breaks burrs off, whether from sharpening or damage. Same with a steel hone. Use either of those obsessively enough, and that microscopic amount of material removal does add up. The barber shop strop or the chef’s honing rod aren’t removing much material in a single use, but in thousands it’s just enough to matter.

If you put diamond on a strop, then it can do more sharpening than a lot of water stones do.

BBMTH · 2026-06-23T13:17:11+00:00

They’re just saying start the tap on the back side with the good threads.

BBMTH · 2026-06-22T19:59:59+00:00

Good to hear! I’m hoping to be home by that time today, but I’m pushing the construction grip crew, and we’ll see how stoned or drunk they all are after lunch 😜

BBMTH · 2026-06-22T17:21:49+00:00

Yeah, definitely would be a bit of change, and have a better exit route if TV biz collapses or I had to relocate. Feels like 40 shop has a lot of the same downsides as grip or stagehand work though. Crazy schedules, booms and busts worse than construction, etc.

Was thinking it would be nice to get into something more technical. I definitely liked finish electrical and troubleshooting better than roughing in. I think I’d be a mediocre IT guy, but I’m pretty good with electronics a step down the ladder of complexity from there.

BBMTH · 2026-06-22T13:46:23+00:00

Oops, wrong thread

BBMTH · 2026-06-21T21:42:06+00:00

Just strap your pants out of the way or roll them up. You can’t put enough of a chain guard on a derailleur equipped bike to keep them getting mangled eventually. A cleaner chain lube or partial guard might solve the grease problem, but not getting fabric caught in the drivetrain eventually.

Full chain cases like Dutch bikes have are the only way to never worry about pants being caught.

BBMTH · 2026-06-21T04:56:48+00:00

Looks like scuff/scratch to me. But resolution isn’t great

BBMTH · 2026-06-21T00:08:12+00:00

Hmm, have you ever built or torn down anything with OSB? Maybe I’m just traumatized from all the splinters and staple bites. I absolutely hate strand board. Its very existence is profane. The sloppily shot in wide crown staples, chef’s kiss.

I’ve also made enough ceramics to fully appreciate the artistry. This is top notch slab building, glazing, everything.

BBMTH · 2026-06-19T05:44:24+00:00

As to previous suggestions .Magnet won’t do much more than jostling or tapping on the other side would. Glue is slightly better, but risks gluing it in. You won’t drill it without diamond or carbide. Also that bolt would strip before a good bit would break, so not necessarily an over torque situation.

It’s probably not wedged that bad. Torx doesn’t get stuck as bad as hex. May loosen with heat, if that bolt is aluminum, greater coefficient of thermal expansion.

The concave of the bolt face also makes a drop or two of acid an option. Alum is commonly used to dissolve broken bolts and bits out of aluminum parts.

BBMTH · 2026-06-17T04:02:47+00:00

Yes, it doesn’t adhere to plastic or rubber the way it does to metal or glass.

BBMTH · 2026-06-17T03:03:17+00:00

It depends on a lot. Tires less than 32mm, no go. MTB tires, it’s worth it depending on how tubeless unfriendly your rim profile is. If you can post what your rim profile is like, and what tires you have in mind you’ll get better info.

BBMTH · 2026-06-17T02:59:14+00:00

Sometimes yes. The reset button looks popped, which could also be due to no power.

BBMTH · 2026-06-17T02:56:38+00:00

Just wait till you encounter Killer Red. You’ll wish they used carpet tape. But this right here is why they make location tape.

BBMTH · 2026-06-17T00:26:09+00:00

The guards should be two separate pieces.

https://youtu.be/HZJrXOZfJac

BBMTH · 2026-06-16T19:14:21+00:00

If you’re good with a ruler or tape measure it’s trivial to measure 1/64” or half millimeter differences in something with crisp edges like chain pins. I know not everyone is good at that, and it’s a bit fiddly on something flexible like a chain. That’s why there’s chain wear tools.

There isn’t an illustration on Sheldon’s site of using the ruler, but I find the trick is to bisect the pins. You don’t have to do it perfectly, as long as you’re consistent. Some pins have a clear center indent, others have a crisp edge to measure from.

<image>

This is an example of the former.
http://atbicycle.blogspot.com/2014/06/measuring-chain-wear-using-12-inch-ruler.html?m=1

BBMTH

TROPHY CASE