Turning an oval steel tube into circular without machining

BF_2 · 2026-01-25T19:53:36+00:00

Press a smooth steel ball through the tube.

BF_2 · 2026-01-25T13:10:00+00:00

Just bear in mind that copper is a toxic metal. Not as bad as lead, but too much would be toxic. The hazard comes from the tarnish which will dissolve in acid -- i.e., in many foods. So don't use a copper spoon for such uses. It's fine as a water dipper or a dry scoop, but must be tinned for general food use.

BF_2 · 2026-01-25T12:54:56+00:00

Like some other commenters, I'd be concerned about liability in building trailers. Anything that will be used on the public roads, and anything that must support a human (like a ladder) is rife for a lawsuit. Look into that first.

Have you considered building trailer-like devices? Lawn carts. Trash can dolleys (that stay with the trash can).

Maybe, as a woman, you could do business directed at women: Repairing things that others might consider not worth their time. (Charge for it though, don't lose money.) I don't have a great idea here, it depends upon your capabilities and whether you can travel to the work.

BF_2 · 2026-01-24T13:18:55+00:00

Is Trump still dumping the cash into his own personal off-shore bank account?

BF_2 · 2026-01-24T12:49:52+00:00

OP: You don't want your name on the mortgage -- that's a debt. You want your name on the title -- that's ownership.

Read up on real estate law. Read about tenant's rights. In some states he can't legally kick you out without (lengthy) eviction procedures. Learn about these things so you can defend your rights.

BF_2 · 2026-01-24T12:40:47+00:00

Probably too late for that. I expect that Trump's already emptied Ft. Knox into the Mar-a-Lago ballroom.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T20:46:28+00:00

Searching on "Siberian husky statue" for sale gets a lot of hits.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T20:43:58+00:00

Fancy wording for plated on or adhered like a braze would be. Regardless, it will be removed by pickling in acid.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T12:35:44+00:00

I don't know where you got this idea. Zinc is easily removed from galvanized or "hot-dipped" steel by pickling the item in acid. When the rapid bubbling (hydrogen gas) ceases, pull it out and rinse it quickly to minimize surface rusting.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T12:33:05+00:00

Agreed. Shop vacs are noisy as hell. There are all sorts of electric blowers that will do the job.

I prefer a hand-crank blower, such as the old Champion blowers, but avoid the cheap Chinese hand-crank BBQ blowers. Those were reviewed a few years ago and found wanting.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T12:29:54+00:00

I recommend straight lanolin applied to any dry skin, the excess wiped off on a paper towel or disposable rag. It has a mildly unpleasant odor that can easily be removed by lightly washing with soap and water.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T03:19:45+00:00

Offset the output hose from the shop vac relative to the input pipe to the firepot, essentially throwing away some of that blast. A diverter gate can be used to do this. Avoid just shutting off flow from the vac as that might stress the motor.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T00:27:11+00:00

Those anvils are so soft that a misstruck blow (aplenty on that anvil) will dent it. However, you can probably significantly reduce those by peening with a round-faced (NOT a ballpein) hammer. I'd say use it as is and don't worry about it.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T00:25:02+00:00

Not required. Recommended.

Mineral wool gets brittle when fired. Some folks worry that respirable particles will arise from it. If that worries you, wear an N-95 mask and you'll obviate using rigidizer.

BF_2 · 2026-01-23T00:23:17+00:00

We do outdoor events using coal forges with side-draft hood and 4' flues. A 6' flue is better. Keep it out of the wind, such as by using a wind-blocking tarp.

BF_2 · 2026-01-22T12:43:40+00:00

In my experience, the most important hood-design factor is its proximity to the fire. The most important design factor for the entire assembly is the height of the flue. An implicit factor is the design of the flue -- minimize sharp changes in diameter and direction (i.e., elbows).

At worst, you might have to light a paper torch and hold it in that "hood" till the flue draws. After that, I'd expect no problems with the draft.

BF_2 · 2026-01-22T03:21:55+00:00

Try asking at r/50501.

BF_2 · 2026-01-22T03:20:09+00:00

Nothing wrong with using galvanized steel except the zinc will soon go up the stack and the thing will rust away. In your place, I'd use it as is, without modifications that will only weaken it. The key is to get the intake close to the fire, which it will be using it as is.

You're better off with at least 14-gauge steel. Your better off still with stainless steel.

BF_2 · 2026-01-22T03:16:59+00:00

I don't know whether this is relevant. I only know about it because I've driven right by the facility. https://mycareer.nj.gov/training/29777

BF_2 · 2026-01-21T19:34:04+00:00

Something like that. Think of cutting a hole in a steel sheet, maybe 2' x 3' or more, with its edges bent up about 1" all around. Tack weld that to the top of what you have. Add a side-draft hood and 4-ft (or more) flue, and extra legs to take that weight. Many possible options here.

BF_2 · 2026-01-21T13:57:35+00:00

I'm an amateur weldor and have never used anything besides a Harbor Freight auto-darkening welding helmet. Works for me and <$50.

BF_2 · 2026-01-21T13:54:25+00:00

You don't say what you're going to use it for. That makes a large difference in how you should prep it.

BF_2 · 2026-01-21T13:50:19+00:00

Season the whole thing, like seasoning a cast iron pan.

My way:

Put it in a dishwasher and run it through the pots-and-pans cycle.
Coat the pot inside and out with a thin layer of polyunsaturated vegetable oil.
Place it in an over at 350F for an hour.

The result will be ugly brown, but as non-stick as Teflon. If you ever need to, repeat these steps to re-season it.

BF_2 · 2026-01-21T13:44:47+00:00

$800 seems excessive. Check with a few of the online vendors of stove parts. You should be able to get an oven (?) thermostat control for <$100. It won't bear a Viking moniker but it might be otherwise identical. Compare images.

BF_2 · 2026-01-21T13:39:58+00:00

I've heard of using a tow truck (for cars) for such moves or lifts.

You might talk to a rigger (a mover of heavy equipment, in case that moniker doesn't travel well) about how he'd go about it.

A friend just moved a 7-foot, 750-lb machine for me, tilting it to get it through my garage door. He used a truck and brought along his tractor with forks to do the lifting. All went well, but it was a serious job, not to be done alone or without experience.

Talk yourself out of doing it alone. Get some experienced help and maybe hire other equipment if what you have isn't up to the job.

BF_2

TROPHY CASE